The Upper West Side is a weird neighborhood for food. It’s caught between these insanely expensive, buttoned-up temples of gastronomy near Columbus Circle and a sea of "just okay" bagel shops and diners. But then there’s the corner of 79th and Amsterdam. If you’ve walked past the Lucerne Hotel, you’ve seen the yellow umbrellas. That’s Nice Matin New York, and honestly, it’s one of the few places in the city that manages to be a true "neighborhood" spot while maintaining a wine list that would make a sommelier in Lyon take notes.
It's been around since 2003. In New York restaurant years, that makes it an ancient landmark. Most places fold in twenty-four months. Nice Matin stayed.
The Vibe at Nice Matin New York
Walking in feels like a time warp, but in a good way. The design by David Rockwell is heavy on that Riviera aesthetic—warm woods, big windows, and a sprawling outdoor terrace that is basically the best place on earth for people-watching on a Sunday morning. It’s loud. Not "I can't hear my own thoughts" loud, but that specific buzz of a busy French bistro where the sound of espresso machines and clinking silverware creates a soundtrack.
You’ll see families with strollers. You’ll see older couples who have lived in the same rent-controlled apartment since the seventies. You’ll see people on awkward first dates. It works for everyone.
The service is efficient. They’ve seen it all. They aren't going to coddle you, but they know exactly when you need another carafe of water or a second basket of bread. It’s that professional, brisk European style that some people find cold, but I find incredibly comforting. It means they know what they’re doing.
Why the Wine Program Actually Matters
A lot of people go to Nice Matin for the burgers or the mussels. That’s fine. But if you aren’t looking at the wine list, you’re missing the point. For years, this place has held a Wine Spectator Grand Award. That isn't a participation trophy. It’s one of the highest honors a restaurant can get for its cellar.
We're talking about 2,500 selections. The focus is, predictably, on France. Specifically the Rhone Valley and Provence.
What’s cool is that they don't just hoard the expensive stuff. Sure, you can spend a month’s rent on a bottle if you’re feeling like a high roller, but the "Sommelier’s Picks" are where the value is. They find these small producers that nobody has heard of and sell them at prices that aren't predatory. It’s rare for an Upper West Side joint to have this much soul in its cellar.
The Famous "Five Napkin" Burger
Long before "Five Napkin Burger" became its own chain, it was just a menu item at Nice Matin. Chef Andy D’Amico created this monster of a burger—ten ounces of ground chuck, caramelized onions, Gruyère cheese, and rosemary aioli on a brioche roll. It’s heavy. It’s messy. It’s delicious.
Is it the best burger in New York? Maybe not in 2026 with all the smash burger pop-ups around. But it is a classic. It’s the kind of meal you eat when you’ve had a bad day and need to feel like the world is okay again.
Breaking Down the Menu
If you aren't in the mood to be defeated by a burger, the Nicoise-inspired menu has plenty of lighter options. The Salade Niçoise is the real deal here. None of that seared tuna nonsense you see at TGI Fridays. We’re talking high-quality canned tuna (the way it’s actually done in Nice), olives, anchovies, and perfectly cooked green beans.
💡 You might also like: Steve Madden Platform Mary Janes: Why They Still Own the Trend in 2026
- The Socca: This is a chickpea pancake. It's a staple of Southern French street food. It’s crispy on the edges, soft in the middle, and seasoned with just enough cracked black pepper.
- Short Rib Tagine: A nod to the North African influences found in French cuisine. It’s aromatic, tender, and comes with couscous that actually has flavor.
- Mussels: Steamed with white wine and garlic. Classic. Simple. Don't skip the fries.
The food isn't trying to reinvent the wheel. It’s not "fusion" and it’s not "deconstructed." It’s just well-executed Provencal cooking. In a city where everything is constantly changing, there is a massive amount of value in a kitchen that stays consistent for two decades.
The Brunch Scene: A Warning and a Recommendation
Brunch at Nice Matin New York is a contact sport. If you show up at 11:30 AM on a Saturday without a reservation, prepare to wait. The sidewalk becomes a parking lot for humans.
But if you get a table? Get the Pain Perdu. It’s thick-cut French toast that is basically custard in bread form. Pair it with a Mimosa or a Cafe au Lait. It’s the quintessential New York weekend experience. If you prefer savory, the Omelette Fine Herbes is deceptively difficult to make well, but they nail the texture every time—soft, pale, and buttery.
What Most People Get Wrong
People think because it’s in a hotel (The Lucerne), it’s a "hotel restaurant." It’s not. It’s a destination that happens to be attached to a hotel. There’s a difference. Hotel restaurants are often bland to appeal to travelers from everywhere. Nice Matin is unapologetically French-Mediterranean. It caters to the locals first.
Also, don't assume it’s just for "old people." While the crowd leans older during the early bird hours, the late-night scene is surprisingly vibrant. The lighting gets lower, the wine flows faster, and the room feels intimate.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
If you're planning to head over, keep these things in mind to make the most of it:
- Book Ahead: Seriously. Use OpenTable or just call them. Even on a Tuesday night, the place can get slammed with locals who don't feel like cooking.
- Request a Window Table: If you’re a party of two, ask for one of the small tables by the Amsterdam Avenue windows. It’s the best seat in the house for watching the city move while you stay still.
- Ask the Sommelier: Don't be intimidated by the massive wine book. Tell them your budget and what you usually like. They love showing off the "hidden gems" that aren't the big-name Bordeaux.
- Explore the Neighborhood After: You’re a few blocks from the Museum of Natural History and Central Park. A heavy lunch at Nice Matin followed by a walk through the park is the ultimate UWS itinerary.
- Try the Socca: Even if you think you don't like chickpeas. It’s the signature appetizer for a reason.
Nice Matin represents a version of New York that is slowly disappearing—the reliable, high-quality, mid-priced bistro that doesn't care about TikTok trends. It’s about the food, the wine, and the person sitting across from you. That’s why it’s still here. That’s why it still matters. If you want a taste of the Riviera without the flight to Nice, this is as close as you’re going to get on the 79th Street crosstown bus.