You’re driving through the rolling hills of Bristol, Virginia, and honestly, you expect some decent views. Maybe some cows. But you don't necessarily expect a culinary experience that rivals what you’d find in Charleston or Nashville. That's the first thing people get wrong about Hickory at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards. It isn't just a "hotel restaurant" tacked onto a winery. It’s the centerpiece of a 450-acre playground that feels remarkably intentional.
Chef Travis Milton is the name you’ll hear most often when people talk about this place. He’s a James Beard Award nominee, but if you met him, he’d probably just talk your ear off about greasy beans or the specific sugar content of a local squash. He’s obsessed. Truly. This obsession translates into a menu that is aggressively Appalachian but refined enough to make you forget you’re sitting in what used to be a simple farm.
The architecture hits you first. High ceilings. Massive windows. Wood everywhere. It’s called Hickory for a reason, after all. You’re looking out at the vineyards while eating food grown maybe two hundred yards from your table. It’s hyper-local. Not in the "we bought this at a local Whole Foods" way, but in the "we harvested this three hours ago" way.
The Reality of Appalachian Soul Food
Most people hear "Appalachian food" and think of fried everything. They think heavy. They think simple.
At Hickory at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards, Milton is busy deconstructing those stereotypes. Take the snacks, for instance. You might find a pimento cheese that isn’t just a tub of orange goop, but a balanced, sharp, and creamy revelation served with crackers that actually have some structural integrity. Or the cornbread. It’s not a cake. It’s savory, crusty, and tastes like the ground it came from.
The menu shifts. It has to. If the frost hits the garden early, the menu changes by Tuesday. That’s the reality of working with a farm-to-table model that actually follows the rules of the farm. You might find duck breast paired with seasonal preserves or a trout dish that tastes like it was pulled from a cold stream that morning. It’s soulful. It’s technical.
But it’s also comfortable.
🔗 Read more: Blue Tabby Maine Coon: What Most People Get Wrong About This Striking Coat
You can wear a nice dress or a pair of clean jeans and a flannel. Nobody cares. The service is polished but lacks that weird, stiff pretentiousness you find in big-city fine dining. They know the wine list because they’ve probably walked the rows of grapes outside.
Beyond the Plate: The Nicewonder Connection
You can't talk about the restaurant without talking about the wine. Nicewonder Vineyards has been at this for a while, and they aren't just making "good for Virginia" wine. They’re making good wine, period. Their Viognier and Chardonnay often steal the spotlight, providing a crisp acidity that cuts through some of the richer, smokier flavors Milton pulls from the hickory wood fire.
The vineyard itself started as a passion project for the Nicewonder family. It grew. Now, it includes a luxury inn, yurts—yes, high-end yurts—and miles of walking trails.
- The Inn: 28 rooms that feel like a mountain escape.
- The Yurts: These aren't the camping tents you're thinking of. They have soaking tubs and heated floors.
- The Land: 450 acres of Virginia highlands.
Eating at Hickory is just one part of the ecosystem. You have a glass of wine on the patio, watch the sun dip behind the mountains, and then walk into the dining room. It’s a transition. It feels like a reset button for your brain.
What to Order (If You Can Find It)
Because the menu is so seasonal, suggesting a specific dish is kinda risky. It might be gone by the time you book a table. However, there are some staples and styles that define the Hickory experience.
Look for the "Preservation Board." It’s basically a map of Appalachian history on a plate. Pickled vegetables, cured meats, and ferments. It tells a story of how people in these mountains survived winters. It’s salty, acidic, and funky.
💡 You might also like: Blue Bathroom Wall Tiles: What Most People Get Wrong About Color and Mood
The hearth is the heart of the kitchen. Anything that spends time over that open flame is a win. The smoke isn't overwhelming; it’s a seasoning. Whether it’s a charred cabbage or a thick-cut pork chop, the wood-fire element is what separates Hickory at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards from the bistro down the street.
Don't skip dessert. Often, they’ll use wild berries or local honey that makes you realize how bland grocery store produce has become. The pastry program is just as calculated as the savory side.
Why This Place Matters for Bristol
Bristol has always been the "Birthplace of Country Music." It’s had the tracks, the tunes, and the history. But for a long time, the high-end culinary scene was a bit sparse. Hickory changed the gravity of the region. It gave people a reason to stay in Bristol for three days instead of just passing through on I-81.
It also supports a whole network of local producers. When a restaurant of this scale commits to local sourcing, it keeps small farms alive. It’s an economic engine disguised as a luxury destination.
There are critics, of course. Some say the price point is high for the area. And yeah, it’s an investment. But you’re paying for the labor of a kitchen that pickles, preserves, and smokes everything in-house. You’re paying for the fact that the person who grew your salad is probably standing in the kitchen talking to the chef.
Logistics and Planning
If you're planning to visit, you need a reservation. Don't just show up on a Saturday night and expect a seat.
📖 Related: BJ's Restaurant & Brewhouse Superstition Springs Menu: What to Order Right Now
- Book early: Especially during leaf-peeping season in the fall.
- Stay on-site: If you can swing it, staying at the Inn or the Yurts makes the wine pairings a lot more enjoyable since you don't have to drive anywhere.
- Check the weather: The patio is one of the best spots in the state of Virginia, but it’s mountain weather. It can get chilly fast.
The drive from Roanoke is about two hours. From Asheville, it’s about ninety minutes. It’s a sweet spot for a weekend getaway.
Making the Most of the Experience
To truly get what Hickory is doing, you have to lean into the "slow" aspect of it. This isn't a place for a quick bite before a movie. It’s the event.
Ask the server about the "Greasy Beans." If they have them, order them. They’re a heritage variety of bean that is specific to this pocket of the world. They have a slick, shiny pod and a texture that is completely different from your standard green bean. It’s a small detail, but it’s the whole point of the restaurant.
Hickory at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards isn't trying to be a restaurant in New York or LA. It’s trying to be the best version of Virginia. It’s a place that respects the dirt, the fire, and the history of the mountains while making sure you have a very, very good glass of wine in your hand.
Next Steps for Your Visit
- Check the current menu: Visit the official Nicewonder Farm website to see the "Current Harvest" menu, as it changes frequently based on what's growing in the garden.
- Coordinate with a Tasting: Schedule a wine tasting at the vineyard for 4:00 PM, allowing you to transition directly into a 6:00 PM dinner reservation at Hickory.
- Explore the Grounds: Arrive an hour early to walk the trails near the yurts; the elevation provides some of the best photographic angles of the vineyard before the sun sets.