You probably think you know what a Philodendron looks like. Heart-shaped leaves, green vine, sits on the bookshelf, right? Well, honestly, there's a good chance that plant in your corner is actually a Pothos, or maybe a Heartleaf that's been mislabeled by a big-box store. It happens all the time. The world of types of philodendron plants is weirdly chaotic. It’s a genus that contains nearly 500 species—and that’s just the ones we’ve officially described. New ones pop up in the rainforests of Brazil and Colombia basically every year.
Philodendrons are survivors. They’ve evolved to thrive in the dappled, humid light of the canopy floor. Some climb. Some crawl. Some just sit there looking massive. If you’ve ever felt like your indoor jungle was missing something, it’s probably one of these. But before you go spending $200 on a rare variegated cutting from a stranger on the internet, you need to know what you’re actually looking at.
The Big Split: Vining vs. Self-Heading
The first thing you have to understand about the different types of philodendron plants is that they generally fall into two camps. Scientists and serious collectors call these "scandent" and "non-scandent."
Most people know the climbers. These are the vining types like the Philodendron hederaceum. They want to go up. In the wild, they use aerial roots to grab onto tree trunks. If you give them a moss pole, the leaves actually get bigger as they climb. It’s like the plant realizes it’s winning the race to the sun. If you let them hang from a basket, the leaves stay small. It’s a survival tactic.
Then you have the "self-heading" types. These don't vine. They grow from a central point, forming a cluster of leaves that can get absolutely massive. Think of the Philodendron birkin or the Philodendron imperial red. These plants aren't going anywhere. They just get wider and more dramatic. They're perfect for that one empty floor corner where a vine would just look messy.
The Classics That Everyone Actually Wants
Let's talk about the Philodendron hederaceum, often called the Heartleaf Philodendron. It's the gateway drug of the plant world. You can’t kill it. Believe me, people have tried. It handles low light like a champ, though it’ll grow leggy if you shove it in a windowless bathroom.
Then there’s the Philodendron brasil. It’s basically a Heartleaf but with a splash of neon yellow down the center. It looks like someone took a highlighter to the foliage. It’s cheap, it’s fast-growing, and it makes you look like a pro gardener even if you forget to water it for three weeks.
But if you want something that feels a bit more "designer," look at the Philodendron micans. The leaves are velvet. No, really. They have this iridescent, shimmering quality that shifts from deep green to rusty purple depending on how the light hits them. It’s easily one of the most beautiful types of philodendron plants you can buy for under twenty bucks.
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The Big Guys: Philodendron Gloriosum and Pastazanum
Now we’re getting into the heavy hitters. If you have space, you want a terrestrial Philodendron. These guys don’t climb trees; they crawl across the ground.
- Philodendron gloriosum: This plant is famous for its massive, heart-shaped leaves and bright white veins. The texture is velvety. It’s a "crawler," meaning the stem (rhizome) grows horizontally along the top of the soil. If you put this in a deep, round pot, it’ll get stuck and stop growing. It needs a long, rectangular planter to stretch its legs.
- Philodendron pastazanum: Similar to the gloriosum but with shiny, leathery leaves instead of velvet. It’s a beast. In a living room, a mature one can easily take up four square feet of space.
Why Do People Keep Calling Pothos a Philodendron?
It’s the number one mistake in the houseplant world. Even nurseries do it. While they look similar, they aren't even in the same genus. A Philodendron hederaceum and an Epipremnum aureum (Pothos) are cousins, not twins.
How do you tell the difference? Look at the cataphylls. When a new Philodendron leaf grows, it comes out of a little sheath called a cataphyll. Once the leaf is out, that sheath dries up and eventually falls off. Pothos don’t do that. Their new leaves just emerge from the stem of the previous leaf. Also, Philodendron leaves have a more distinct "heart" shape with a sharper tip. Pothos leaves are thicker and feel more like wax.
Does it matter? Sorta. Philodendrons tend to be slightly more sensitive to cold, while Pothos can survive a drafty window a bit better. But honestly, both are pretty tough.
The Weird and the Rare: Pink Princesses and Beyond
A few years ago, the Philodendron erubescens 'Pink Princess' was the most expensive plant on the planet. People were paying $500 for a four-inch pot. Now? You can find them at grocery stores for $20.
The Pink Princess is a climbing variety with dark, almost black leaves and splashes of bright pink variegation. The problem is that the variegation is unstable. If you don't give it enough light, the plant "reverts" and goes back to being plain green. Or, if it gets too much pink, the leaf dies because pink tissue has no chlorophyll to feed the plant. It’s a delicate balance.
If you like that look but want something easier, look for the Philodendron white knight or white wizard. They have white splotches instead of pink and tend to be a little sturdier.
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Tree Philodendrons: A Taxonomic Mess
For decades, everyone called the "split-leaf" plant a Philodendron selloum or Philodendron bipinnatifidum. You've seen them—they have huge, woody trunks and deeply lobed leaves that look like fingers.
Well, turns out, they aren't Philodendrons.
In 2018, researchers used DNA sequencing and realized these plants were different enough to be their own genus. They’ve been renamed Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum. Most people still sell them as Philodendrons, but if you want to be "that guy" at the plant shop, now you know the truth. They are distinct because they develop a massive, trunk-like stem that can hold the plant upright without support, something a true Philodendron struggles to do.
Caring for Different Types of Philodendron Plants
You’d think with 500 species, the care would be all over the place. It's actually not. Most of these plants follow the same basic rules.
- The Light Struggle: They like bright, indirect light. Direct sun will scorch those beautiful leaves, especially the variegated ones. If your plant is getting "leggy"—meaning there's a lot of stem between the leaves—it’s begging for more light.
- Watering Logic: Don't be a helicopter parent. Philodendrons hate wet feet. Wait until the top two inches of soil are dry. Stick your finger in there. If it feels damp, walk away. Overwatering is the fastest way to get root rot, and once that starts, it’s hard to stop.
- Humidity: These are tropical plants. They love humidity. But let’s be real, most of us don’t live in a rainforest. They’ll adapt to average home humidity, but if your tips are turning brown and crispy, try a humidifier. Misting doesn't actually do anything except make the leaves look pretty for five minutes.
- Soil Mix: Don't use cheap, heavy potting soil. They need drainage. Mix in some orchid bark and perlite. You want a "chunky" mix that allows air to get to the roots.
Unusual Philodendrons You Haven’t Heard Of
While everyone is chasing the Pink Princess, there are some incredible types of philodendron plants that are flying under the radar.
- Philodendron tortum: This looks more like a fern or a palm than a Philodendron. Its leaves are deeply skeletonized. It’s weird, architectural, and surprisingly easy to grow.
- Philodendron verrucosum: This is the "boss level" plant. It has hairy stems (petioles) and deep green, velvety leaves with red undersides. It’s stunning but very finicky about humidity. If you can keep this alive, you’ve officially graduated to expert status.
- Philodendron '69686': Yes, that’s the name. It’s a placeholder number that stuck. It has leaves that look like a three-lobed butterfly or a bat. It’s a fast climber and always starts a conversation.
The Practical Value of Your Indoor Jungle
Beyond just looking good on Instagram, Philodendrons are actually useful. A famous (though often debated) NASA study from 1989 suggested that Philodendrons are great at filtering formaldehyde from the air. Now, you’d need about 500 plants in a small room to see a massive clinical difference, but hey, every little bit helps.
More importantly, they are psychologically grounding. There is actual data suggesting that interacting with indoor plants reduces physiological stress. It’s called biophilia. We’re wired to want to be around green stuff.
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Dealing with Common Problems
Even the easiest types of philodendron plants run into trouble.
If you see yellow leaves, it’s usually one of two things: age or water. If it’s an old leaf at the bottom of the plant, don't worry about it. Plants shed old leaves. If it’s a new leaf or multiple leaves at once, you’re likely overwatering.
Pests are the other headache. Mealybugs—those gross white cottony things—love to hide in the nooks where the leaf meets the stem. Aphids and spider mites show up if the air is too dry. A simple spray of neem oil or insecticidal soap usually clears it up, but you have to be consistent.
Next Steps for Your Collection
If you're ready to dive deeper into the world of Philodendrons, stop buying from big-box retailers. Their plants are often pumped full of growth hormones and kept in poor conditions. Instead, look for local "plant swaps" or reputable online sellers like Steve's Leaves or Ecuagenera.
Start by identifying what you already have. Check the stems. Look for those cataphylls. If you have a climber, buy a cedar plank or a moss pole this weekend. You will be shocked at how much the leaf size increases once the plant feels secure.
Finally, don't be afraid to prune. If your vining Philodendron is looking thin, chop it back. You can propagate the cuttings in water, and the mother plant will grow back bushier and fuller than before. It’s the easiest way to get "free" plants while making your current ones look better.
Check your soil today. If it's a solid, compacted brick of peat moss, your Philodendron is struggling to breathe. Repot it into a chunky aroid mix—equal parts potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark—and watch it take off. It’s the single best thing you can do for any Philodendron species.