Virgil Abloh didn't just release a shoe; he dropped a sociological experiment disguised as a sneaker collection. "The 50" was chaos. By the time we got to the Off White Dunk Lot 49, the sneaker world was already exhausted, broke, and obsessed. It was the penultimate pair in a sprawling 50-shoe marathon titled "Dear Summer."
Honestly? Most of the lots felt like fillers to some people. But Lot 49 survived the hype cycle.
It wasn't just another grey and white sneaker. It was the final "standard" iteration before the collection climaxed with the triple-black Lot 50. If you missed out on the SNKRS Exclusive Access back in August 2021, you likely spent the next few years staring at resale charts.
The Anatomy of Lot 49
The Off White Dunk Lot 49 is basically a masterclass in "the grey area." Virgil’s whole philosophy was about the space between black and white. Lot 49 lives there. It uses a crisp white leather base paired with Neutral Grey canvas overlays.
Wait, canvas? Yeah.
Unlike some of the earlier lots that opted for hairy suede, Lot 49 went with the canvas-over-leather combo. It feels more industrial. More "Off-White."
The Specifics You’ll Actually Notice
- The Secondary Laces: They’re a sharp, almost electric purple. They pop against the muted grey like a neon sign in a fog.
- The Zip Tie: It’s grey. No "The Ten" red here.
- The Tongue: It’s that signature exposed foam, but it’s colored in a soft, pale blue. It’s subtle.
- The Midsole Badge: This is the big one. It’s a marble-patterned badge that explicitly says "49 of 50."
You’ve got the Helvetica text on the medial side, obviously. It wouldn’t be an Abloh design without the quotation marks and the beaverton address. But on Lot 49, the text somehow feels more integrated into the canvas texture than it does on the smooth leather versions.
Why 49 Matters More Than 15 or 32
People get weird about numbers. In a collection of 50, being #49 carries a certain weight. It’s the "almost there" shoe.
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In the secondary market, "The 50" became a game of hunting specific color combinations. Lot 49 is widely considered one of the "cleanest" pairs because its accent colors—purple and light blue—don't clash with the grey.
Compare that to some of the earlier lots with lime green or hot pink laces. Those are loud. Lot 49 is sophisticated. It’s the pair you can actually wear to a semi-nice dinner without looking like you’re trying too hard to be a hypebeast.
The Reality of Owning Them in 2026
If you’re looking to pick up a pair now, things are... complicated.
Resale prices haven't exactly tanked. Because these were a SNKRS Exclusive Access drop, the supply was weirdly distributed. You couldn't just "buy" them on release day; Nike chose you. That artificial scarcity, combined with Virgil's passing, turned Lot 49 into a collector's item rather than just a daily driver.
Expect to pay. A "Deadstock" (brand new) pair of Lot 49 will currently set you back anywhere from $600 to $900 depending on the size. Smaller and larger sizes—the "outliers"—usually command the highest premiums.
Spotting the Fakes (It's Getting Harder)
The replica market has had years to perfect "The 50." If you’re buying from a person rather than a verified platform, check these three things immediately:
- The Badge: On fakes, the "49 of 50" badge is often too flat. The real one has a slight marble-like swirl and sits slightly "in" the midsole, not just on top of it.
- The Canvas Texture: Real Lot 49 canvas has a specific, tight weave. Fakes often look too "hairy" or fuzzy.
- The Foam: The blue exposed foam on the tongue should be dense. If it feels like a kitchen sponge, run.
Actionable Insights for Collectors
If you’re serious about adding the Off White Dunk Lot 49 to your rotation, stop waiting for a price dip. It isn't coming. The "Dear Summer" collection is a finite piece of sneaker history.
Here is what you should do:
- Prioritize Condition over Box: If you plan to wear them, look for "VNDS" (Very Near Deadstock) pairs. You can often save $200 just because someone wore them once to take a photo for Instagram.
- Verify the Zip Tie: Ensure the grey zip tie is the original matte plastic. Replacement ties are a huge red flag.
- Check the secondary lace loops: These are the tiny flywire loops holding the purple laces. On authentic pairs, they are anchored firmly; on low-quality reps, they often feel flimsy or have inconsistent spacing.
The Lot 49 isn't just a shoe. It's the end of an era. It represents the peak of the "over-designed" aesthetic that defined the early 2020s. Whether you're a fan of the purple-on-grey look or just a completionist, this pair remains one of the most wearable entries in Virgil Abloh's most ambitious project.
Secure your pair through a reputable authentication service. Check the midsole badge for that distinct marbling. Once they're on your feet, loosen the purple over-laces just a bit—that's how they were meant to be seen.