You’ve seen them everywhere. Those bright, neon-colored plastic slabs leaning against backpacks in high school hallways or weaving through frantic foot traffic in downtown Chicago. Some people call them toys. Others swear they are the most efficient urban transport ever designed. Honestly, when you’re talking about a nickel and penny board, you’re talking about the ultimate "love it or hate it" equipment in the skating world.
The reality is that Ben Mackay, the founder of Penny Skateboards, tapped into something weirdly nostalgic and incredibly practical back in 2010. He wanted to recreate the boards he grew up with in Australia during the 70s. Those original plastic boards were flexible, indestructible, and small enough to shove in a locker. Today, the choice between the 22-inch Penny and the 27-inch Nickel defines how you experience your city.
What’s Actually Different Between a Nickel and Penny Board?
It’s mostly size, but size changes everything about the physics of the ride.
The Penny is the "OG." It’s 22 inches long. It’s tiny. If you have feet larger than a US men’s size 9, your toes and heels are going to be hanging off the edge like a bird on a wire. It’s twitchy. It’s fast. It’s meant for short bursts—zipping from the bus stop to the office door. Because the wheelbase is so short, you can turn on a dime, but that also means if you hit a pebble the size of a pea, you might find yourself eating pavement.
Then you have the Nickel. At 27 inches, it’s basically the Penny’s big brother. It’s got a bit more "meat" on the bones. It feels way more like a traditional skateboard, just made of that secret formula plastic. It’s stable. You can actually stand on it without feeling like you're performing a balancing act on a ruler. If you’re planning on riding for more than ten minutes at a time, your ankles will thank you for choosing the Nickel.
The Secret Sauce: It's All in the Plastic
Most people think plastic is cheap. In most cases, they're right. But the genuine Penny brand uses a specific, non-slip waffle top deck that doesn't need grip tape. This is a massive deal. Why? Because grip tape is basically sandpaper. It shreds your shoes. It scrapes your hands when you carry the board.
With a nickel and penny board, you can pick it up by the deck and your skin stays intact. Plus, the flex is legendary. When you pump through a turn, the plastic actually bows and snaps back, giving you a little boost of kinetic energy. Cheap knock-offs usually use inferior recycled plastics that are either too brittle—snapping under a heavy rider—or too soft, feeling like you’re standing on a soggy noodle.
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Is the 22-inch Penny Too Small for You?
Probably. Let's be real.
If you are a beginner, starting on a 22-inch board is playing the game on "Hard Mode." There is zero room for error. Your foot placement has to be surgical. Most experienced skaters use the 22-inch for one reason: portability. It fits inside a standard backpack. It fits under a seat on a plane. It’s the ultimate travel companion. But for a Sunday cruise along the beach? It can get exhausting.
The Nickel (27-inch) is the sweet spot for 90% of humans. You get the stability of a longboard but the weight of a cruiser. You can actually learn to ollie on a Nickel if you're determined, though the lack of grip tape makes it feel like trying to jump while standing on a bar of soap.
Wheels and Bearings: The Unsung Heroes
Penny doesn't just slap any old wheels on these things. They use 59mm 83A wheels. In skater-speak, that means they are soft and gummy.
- They soak up vibrations from rough asphalt.
- They roll over cracks that would stop a trick board dead.
- They’re quiet. You don’t get that "death rattle" sound of hard wheels on concrete.
The bearings are usually Abec-7s, which provide a smooth, long-lasting roll. You can coast for a long time on a single push, which is kind of the whole point of a cruiser.
Why Skateboard "Purists" Used to Hate These Boards
There was a time, maybe around 2014, when "real" skaters looked down on the nickel and penny board. They saw them as fashion accessories for people who didn't want to learn "real" tricks.
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But things changed.
The community realized that not everyone wants to spend three hours a day failing to kickflip down a four-stair. Some people just want to get to the grocery store faster than walking. The Penny board bridged the gap between "skater" and "commuter." It made skating accessible to people who were intimidated by the aggressive culture of skateparks.
Also, they’re basically waterproof. A wooden deck will waterlog and ruin if it gets wet. Plastic? You can ride through a puddle, dry it off with a paper towel, and you’re good to go. Just don't let the bearings rust.
Real-World Use Cases: Which One Should You Buy?
I’ve spent years riding both, and the choice usually comes down to your environment.
If you live in a dense city like New York or Tokyo, the 22-inch Penny is a godsend. You’re constantly picking it up, weaving through crowds, and hopping on subways. Space is a premium. The twitchiness of the small board is actually a benefit when you need to dodge a tourist who suddenly stops in the middle of the sidewalk.
However, if you’re a college student on a sprawling campus like UC Boulder or Michigan State, get the Nickel. You have long stretches of open pavement. You’ll be on the board for 15-20 minutes at a time. The extra 5 inches of deck space makes the ride much more relaxing. You won't feel every single vibration in your calves by the time you get to your psych 101 lecture.
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A Quick Note on "Fake" Penny Boards
You’ll find "plastic cruisers" on Amazon for $30. A real Penny or Nickel usually costs $100+. Is it worth the jump?
Yes.
I’m not just saying that. The trucks on the cheap boards are usually made of low-grade "pot metal" that can snap under pressure. The bushings (the little rubber bits that let you turn) are often as hard as rocks, meaning you can't actually carve. A genuine nickel and penny board uses high-quality aluminum trucks and responsive bushings. It’s the difference between driving a go-kart and driving a shopping cart with a wonky wheel.
How to Not Fall Off (Practical Advice)
If you’ve just unboxed your first board, the biggest mistake is standing with your feet pointing forward. Don't do that. You’ll fall.
- Keep your front foot over the front bolts, pointing slightly outward.
- Your back foot should be perpendicular to the board.
- Keep your knees bent. Lower center of gravity equals less time falling.
- Weight stays on your front foot. If you put too much weight on the back of a 22-inch Penny, the board will shoot out from under you like a wet bar of soap.
Taking Care of Your Board
These things are tough, but they aren't invincible. The sun is actually your biggest enemy. Constant UV exposure can make the plastic brittle over several years. If you leave your board in the back window of a hot car all summer, don't be surprised if it loses that famous "flex."
Keep the bearings clean. If you ride through dirt or rain, pop the wheels off and wipe down the axles. A drop of "Bones Speed Cream" or any light synthetic oil will keep you rolling silently.
Final Thoughts on the Plastic Revolution
The nickel and penny board isn't a fad; it's a tool. It’s a specific solution to the problem of "the last mile." It’s for the person who wants the wind in their face without the bulk of a bicycle or the "clunkiness" of a motorized scooter.
Whether you go for the nimble 22 or the stable 27, you're buying into a piece of design history that refuses to die.
Your Next Steps
- Check your shoe size: If you’re over a size 10, start with the 27-inch Nickel. It’s a much safer learning platform.
- Test the flex: Stand in the middle of the board and bounce slightly. It should feel springy, not stiff or saggy.
- Find a flat parking lot: Don't take your new board straight to a hill. Plastic boards pick up speed incredibly fast because the wheels have so little rolling resistance.
- Invest in decent shoes: Even though the waffle top is "non-slip," flat-soled shoes like Vans or Converse will give you the best contact with the deck.