You're standing in the backyard, tongs in one hand and a cold drink in the other, staring at a massive hunk of stainless steel. It looks impressive. But honestly, most of us end up using about 20% of the actual cooking surface because we’re stuck in the "just burgers" mindset. That’s where the natural gas grill griddle combo changes the game, though maybe not in the way the glossy brochures suggest.
It’s about versatility. Real versatility.
Most people think they need a separate flat-top like a Blackstone and a traditional Weber-style grate grill. That’s a lot of real estate to give up on your patio. A combo unit—specifically one plumbed into your home’s natural gas line—is basically the holy grail for anyone who actually cooks outside more than twice a year. No more heavy propane tanks. No more running out of fuel halfway through a rack of ribs. Just endless, steady heat.
The Plumbing Reality Nobody Tells You
Before you drop two grand on a high-end unit from Blaze or Napoleon, let’s talk about the pipe in the wall. Natural gas isn't "plug and play." You can't just take a propane grill and shove a hose onto a natural gas stub. The orifices are different sizes because natural gas operates at a much lower pressure than liquid propane. If you try to DIY a conversion without a proper kit, you’re going to get tiny, pathetic yellow flames that couldn't sear a marshmallow, let alone a ribeye.
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You need a licensed plumber. Expect to pay anywhere from $200 to $600 just for the hookup, depending on how far your gas manifold is from your patio. It’s an investment. But once it’s done? You’re cooking with literal infinite fuel.
Why the "Combo" Aspect is Trickier Than It Looks
There are two ways manufacturers handle the natural gas grill griddle combo design.
The first is the "drop-in" plate. This is basically a heavy piece of carbon steel or cast iron that sits on top of your existing grates. It’s cheap. It’s easy. But it’s also kinda frustrating because the airflow wasn't designed for a solid slab of metal blocking the heat. You get hot spots. You get grease drainage issues.
The second—and better—option is the dedicated split-firebox. Brands like Le Griddle or even the higher-end Camp Chef models offer configurations where one side is a traditional open flame and the other is a thick, professional-grade flat top. This matters because a griddle needs different heat management than a grill. On a griddle, you want even, edge-to-edge heat for smash burgers or fried rice. On a grill, you want those concentrated "flare-up" zones for char.
The Metallurgy of the Flat Top
Let's get nerdy for a second. If you’re looking at a natural gas grill griddle combo, the material of the griddle plate is the single most important factor.
- Cold Rolled Steel: This is what you find on most entry-level units. It seasons beautifully, turning pitch black and non-stick over time. But it rusts if you look at it funny. If you live near the coast? Forget it.
- Stainless Steel: It looks gorgeous. It won't rust. But it’s a nightmare for sticking unless you’re a master of temperature control. It also doesn't hold heat quite as well as carbon steel.
- 304 Grade Professional Plates: These are the heavy hitters. We’re talking 1/2-inch thick slabs. They take 15 minutes to heat up, but once they’re hot, they stay hot even when you dump five pounds of cold bacon on them.
I’ve seen people buy a beautiful natural gas setup only to let the griddle plate turn into an orange rectangle of rust within six months because they didn't realize that "natural gas" doesn't mean "maintenance-free." You still have to treat that steel like a cast-iron skillet. Scrub it. Oil it. Love it.
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Temperature Zones and the Bacon Test
A common mistake is thinking you can just turn all the burners to "High" and start cooking. If you do that on a combo unit, the heat bleed from the griddle side will affect your grill side. The best units have internal dividers—physical metal walls—under the hood that separate the burner chambers.
Think about a Saturday morning. You’ve got bacon and eggs going on the griddle side at a steady 325°F. On the grill side, maybe you’re charring some peppers for a midday salsa at 500°F. If your combo unit doesn't have a double-walled firebox, that 500-degree heat is going to creep over and burn your eggs.
Nuance matters.
Specific brands handle this differently. For example, the Blaze Premium LTE series offers a dedicated griddle plate that replaces a section of the grates. It’s heavy-duty. But because it shares the same air space, you have to be careful. In contrast, luxury brands like Hestan or Lynx offer "VersaTop" systems where the engineering is so precise you could practically bake a cake on one side while searing a steak on the other. Of course, those cost as much as a used Honda Civic.
Managing the Grease Traps
This is the least sexy part of outdoor cooking, but it’s where most combo units fail.
A grill’s grease falls into a tray or a bucket. A griddle’s grease has to be pushed manually into a hole. In a natural gas grill griddle combo, these two systems sometimes collide. You want a unit with a front-access grease drawer. Why? Because reaching behind a hot, 500-degree natural gas appliance to empty a tray of liquid fat is a recipe for a trip to the ER.
Check the capacity. If you're cooking for a crowd, a tiny grease cup will overflow in twenty minutes. It's gross. It's a fire hazard. Look for something that can hold at least two cups of liquid.
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The Real Cost of Convenience
Let’s be real: natural gas is cheaper than propane in the long run. In most parts of the U.S., you’re paying a fraction of the cost per BTU compared to those $20 tank swaps at the gas station. But the upfront cost of the grill itself is usually 10-15% higher for the natural gas version. Manufacturers charge a premium for the specialized valves and the included long-reach hoses.
Is it worth it?
If you grill once a month, no. Stick to a portable propane unit.
But if you’re the type who makes pancakes on the patio on Sundays and sears scallops on Tuesday nights, the natural gas grill griddle combo is a life-changer. The consistency of the gas flow means your "Medium" setting is actually "Medium" every single time. Propane pressure drops as the tank gets cold or empty; natural gas stays rock solid.
Maintenance: The 3-Step Routine
- The Burn-Off: After every session, let the grill side run on high for 10 minutes. For the griddle side, scrape it while it's still hot.
- The Water Shock: Squirt a little water on the hot griddle plate to lift the stubborn bits. Don't use soap. Ever.
- The Thin Coat: While the plate is cooling, wipe a very thin layer of grapeseed or avocado oil over the surface. If it’s smoking, the oil is too thick or the heat is too high. You want a mirror finish, not a sticky mess.
Final Practical Steps for the Savvy Buyer
Stop looking at the total BTUs. That’s a vanity metric. A grill with 60,000 BTUs and a thin, flimsy lid will lose more heat than a 30,000 BTU grill with a heavy-duty, double-lined hood.
Instead, look at the weight.
A high-quality natural gas grill griddle combo should be heavy. If you can push it with one finger and it wobbles, the heat retention will be garbage. You want thick gauges of 304 stainless steel. It’s the gold standard for a reason—it survives the elements and holds onto thermal mass.
Before you buy, measure your gas line diameter. Most residential stubs are 1/2 inch. Some high-end, high-BTU grills require a 3/4-inch line to perform at their peak. Check the manual online before you pull the trigger. If you hook a "monster" grill to a "mini" pipe, you'll never reach those high searing temperatures you're paying for.
Next, decide on your "Griddle-to-Grate" ratio. Most combos are 50/50 or 30/70. If you’re a big breakfast person, go 50/50. If the griddle is just for the occasional smash burger or sautéed onions, the 30% "side griddle" configuration is much more practical for daily use.
Lastly, buy a high-quality cover. Natural gas units are "permanent" fixtures since they’re tethered to your house. They can't be rolled into the garage when a storm hits. A $50 cover will save you from $500 in replacement burners three years down the road. Focus on the seals, the gas line clearance, and the thickness of the metal. That's how you win the backyard cooking game.