Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - eishiya
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 127

General Discussion / Re: Do People Still Use this Website/Forum?
« on: October 28, 2021, 06:54:32 pm »
Most of the community moved to Discord, yeah. PixelJoint has more art-related activity on the site, but even the users there seem to be mostly on Discord. Shame, because I don't get on with Discord for art feedback, the post format is just too inflexible >:

Another problem is that a lot of the older artists are too busy for this place or don't have use for it anymore, and there hasn't been much influx of newer artists, because most of them are on Twitter and Instagram and such instead, but those aren't communities as such.

Discord is mostly where the community has gone, but it's still splintered. And I've yet to find a pixel art Discord I like, there's not enough pixel art happening at any of them for my taste :'D (Granted, I haven't tried out very many, they're hard to find if you're not in the "in" crowd.)

2D & 3D / Re: Wing Commander Pixel Art-y Unity Remake
« on: May 15, 2021, 01:24:05 pm »
These new ones look noisier than the old ones. I realise you're at the mercy of your shader, but I think the noisiness is worth addressing if possible. The seat and visor highlights have the most noticeable noise, to me.

There's some rather nasty moire on the seatbelts. I don't know how much control you have over that, but perhaps it would look better if it faded to a solid grey instead of trying to reproduce these too-thin-to-show lines?

General Discussion / Re: Octagon in top-down perspective?
« on: March 28, 2021, 06:50:16 pm »
I recommend reading those tutorials from Cyangmou that Ryumaru mentioned, they explain how perspective comes into play quite well. I think if that stuff clicks for you, you'll have a much easier time figuring out how to draw octagons (any any other shape) in a way that fits with the rest of your game. Part 1, part 2, part 3. They're not that long a read.

A lot of it is down to what looks good, but understanding the perspective/projection you're using makes it a lot easier to arrive at a result that looks good without a lot of trial and error. While there might not be "set formulas", there are broad rules you can follow to figure out, for example, where the gable on a house roof should be placed to make the roof look gabled rather than like a lean-to, or to figure out the size and shape of the top of a barrel or crate so that those props look like they exist in the same space.

Same with the boxes above the crates example, the left one is a box lying down, middle is a cube and the right one is a box standing up.
This bit perplexes me. A cubic box is a cube no matter which side it's resting on, because all the sides are the same size. The top box is a box seen in isometric or 3/4 view, the bottom box (a square) is a box seen from directly above, or from the side (sidescroller view). If I encountered both of these in a 3/4 game, the square would look like a piece of cardboard or a flag or something, because it has no depth - if it had depth, we'd see it.

Pixel Art / Re: Minotaur - seeks advice
« on: March 04, 2021, 09:10:45 pm »
This is a common critique for me. Should the creases go a tint lighter?
The less light can hit an area, the darker the shadow. The small creases between muscles are very small and still get plenty of light. The large form shadows where the body is turned away from the light or where something blocks the light generally get less light, and thus should be darker. You can break this "rule" to help some details stand out when you need them, but you should generally try to think in terms of light and where it reaches and doesn't reach.

Pixel Art / Re: Grass
« on: February 08, 2021, 02:50:27 pm »
Tiled is fantastic for all sorts of tiled work, and it has a bunch of tools for autotiling. It doesn't let you edit the tile art within the program, but for using the tiles once you've made them, I doubt there's anything better. It will auto-update the tiles when they're modified by an outside program though, so you can fairly quickly (though not instantly) see the changes you make to the tiles in Aseprite or other image editor.

You can export your Tiled maps as PNGs after you've made them, so you can pop them back into Aseprite for adding more art if you want.

Pixel Art / Re: Grass
« on: February 08, 2021, 12:41:07 am »
My "trick" is to use tiles, but
- with several variants, 4+ different tiles
- small enough tiles that there aren't big distinct shapes of grass within the tile that will be noticeable when repeated
- with different edges that line up to form different grass clump shapes when put together (this too benefits from smaller tiles)

Towards the end (after placing any props and such, which will cover up a lot of the tiling), the remaining bits where tiling is still noticeable can be touched up manually.

This is the method I'd employ for almost all terrains, tbh - grass, dirt, water, bricks, as well as transitions.

It's a lot easier to avoid the "tiled" look with tiles than it is to manually obtain a good level of polish on an un-tiled expanse like this. The key thing to avoid the appearance of a grid, rather than avoid tiles entirely. Break up those blocky straight transitions, and use a good set of variant tiles, and most people won't even notice you're using tiles at all.

In addition: you can embrace solid areas of colour. Your grass right now, completely solid green, actually looks pretty good, just a little boring! Solid colours "tile" perfectly, don't look tiled, and are easy to draw. All you need to do to keep the image from being boring is to break up the negative space with just enough unique elements and props that the scene doesn't look empty, you don't have to fill it all with texture.

Pixel Art / Re: Castles and clouds
« on: February 08, 2021, 12:24:58 am »
For the clouds, I think it might help to have a bit more space with the solid blue sky visible between the waves/rows of clouds. As it is, the sky reads more like water or some other continuous textured surface, rather than white clouds against a blue background of sky.

Of the three versions you posted, I think the middle one looks most like clouds,  because they're less regular.

I also wonder if perhaps making the sky lighter overall might help, with whiter clouds and a less dark blue for the sky. The sky doesn't quite match the rest of the scene right now because it's so high-contrast. When using photo reference, you need to be critical about the colours, as they're often edited in a way that helps the photo's composition, but may work against your goals. Since you're going for a hazy look for the distant parts of the scene, the sky should also be affected by that.

The highlights on the flat sides of the wagon wheels feel a bit out of place, being so well-defined and sharp, when the rest of the image has such subtle and soft rendering. They draw a lot of attention to themselves as a result, which doesn't seem intentional.

Pixel Art / Re: [WIP] Skelton in Armor
« on: January 11, 2021, 02:18:54 pm »
Have you looked at any photo reference? The lighting you're looking for doesn't seem too different from what you might find in museums and films, so you should be able to find plenty. When in doubt, always start by looking at the real thing, and stylise from there.

Reference would also help communicate to others what sort of armour you're going for, it would help others make suggestions and edit.

Also, your formatting's fine, but it would help people make edits more easily if you posted your image at 1x zoom. The forum has a zoom feature (click an image to zoom, click while holding any modifier key to unzoom), so pre-zooming is usually unnecessary.

Pixel Art / Re: [CC] [WIP] Character sprite feedback
« on: November 09, 2020, 03:47:10 pm »
While I agree with most of bengo's advice, I feel their edit goes overboard and completely changes the style (and in the case of the bird, changes the design/species), loses some readability, and loses the lovely sense of volume the original had. I think it's a good edit to study, but I think it can be difficult to figure out how to incorporate those changes into one's own work, since it's so different.

To help bridge the gap somewhat, here's a different take that incorporates most of what bengo said to a lesser degree, keeping most of the original style.

It uses more colours (14 instead of 9; original had 18) and keeps the external outlines because I feel they improve readability, but makes some similar changes to the silhouette and adds/corrects some of the same details from the reference that were missing/off-model in the original. Mostly I focused on adding the big details from the ref while getting rid of the small ones that weren't reading well (folds, etc), and removing highlights that weren't important or helping define the forms.
I kept the details and lighting on the legs because I don't think they were clashing with the head at all, the contrast there is much lower. I even added more contrast and I still don't feel it clashes.

The things I "corrected" were the heights of the shoulder pads, and the relative sizes of the boots and gloves. Looks like you struggle with keeping those consistent, OP, so that's something you should try to focus on specifically. I also made their trousers tighter (=legs thinner) to be consistent with the ref.

General Discussion / Re: Order of Techniques
« on: November 09, 2020, 03:43:02 pm »
I go the whole nine yards on one of the keyframes (typically an idle pose; I usually do idle animations last) just to be sure that everything reads well. Once that's done, I block in the frames very loosely, and I don't deal with lighting and details until I'm satisfied with the base animation. I'll only touch lighting during this stage if it's an important and dynamic part of the animation.

I usually do this cycle (block in -> refine timing/poses -> lighting/details) on each separate animation rather than several animations at once, because I like having something I can call done on a regular basis. It's probably a less efficient way to work overall, but for me, the psychological benefit is worth it.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 127