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2D & 3D / Re: Low Poly Girl -Dahlia
« on: November 11, 2008, 04:41:29 am »
i have no idea how blender works, im used to max.
however i have some ideas for UVs:
- try unwrapping a grid/checkerboard first.. then play a bit with the vertices to make the
shapes on the unwrap closer to the model shape.. having a grid allows you to check if
your pixels are all nice, square, and even.
- i like to do a front/back automatic unwrap and edit from there, usually making something
like this for the shirt |right|front|left|back|.. similar for the legs (except mirrored textures)
|inside|front|outside|back|
- always make the most of your texture space, if i look at your texture.. you can move the
hair over, the body down, and then you have room for a double-detailed face. you could
do the same with some other bodyparts and free up some extra space for the hair or shirt
or something.
- this is something where pixelart and 3d differ: density. pixelart always has 1 pixel per pixel.
in 3d however you might have a model very big on screen, or have a small texture size.
when that happens you get blow. up pixels like in your renders.
this often leads to very blocky images and uglyness. a good way to counter this is to pay
attention to focal points. such as the face. use a bit higher resolution for things that people
tend to look at more (faces. displays of screens. decals.)
-it doesnt matter if things are upside down on the texture (though it might be a bit annoying
to work on) because it all gets compiled in 1 object anyway. so if you've got to put something
sideways its no baddie.
- shade your character. in diffuse only its essential to have good shadows in the texture. i see
you've done this already but it can be a bit stronger, for example a drop shadow from the shirt
on the pants, and darker shading from the jacket on the shirt.. it might also look good to make
the lowest row pixels of the shirt transparent, to make a bit of an indent
- dont pay too much attention to traditional pixel techniques. OMGWHAT. yeah.. dithering
becomes a warbly mess on a distance and AAing doesnt always work nicely either. for 3d its
a good idea to overAA a bit so it still makes sense on a small scale.
a few examples
however i have some ideas for UVs:
- try unwrapping a grid/checkerboard first.. then play a bit with the vertices to make the
shapes on the unwrap closer to the model shape.. having a grid allows you to check if
your pixels are all nice, square, and even.
- i like to do a front/back automatic unwrap and edit from there, usually making something
like this for the shirt |right|front|left|back|.. similar for the legs (except mirrored textures)
|inside|front|outside|back|
- always make the most of your texture space, if i look at your texture.. you can move the
hair over, the body down, and then you have room for a double-detailed face. you could
do the same with some other bodyparts and free up some extra space for the hair or shirt
or something.
- this is something where pixelart and 3d differ: density. pixelart always has 1 pixel per pixel.
in 3d however you might have a model very big on screen, or have a small texture size.
when that happens you get blow. up pixels like in your renders.
this often leads to very blocky images and uglyness. a good way to counter this is to pay
attention to focal points. such as the face. use a bit higher resolution for things that people
tend to look at more (faces. displays of screens. decals.)
-it doesnt matter if things are upside down on the texture (though it might be a bit annoying
to work on) because it all gets compiled in 1 object anyway. so if you've got to put something
sideways its no baddie.
- shade your character. in diffuse only its essential to have good shadows in the texture. i see
you've done this already but it can be a bit stronger, for example a drop shadow from the shirt
on the pants, and darker shading from the jacket on the shirt.. it might also look good to make
the lowest row pixels of the shirt transparent, to make a bit of an indent
- dont pay too much attention to traditional pixel techniques. OMGWHAT. yeah.. dithering
becomes a warbly mess on a distance and AAing doesnt always work nicely either. for 3d its
a good idea to overAA a bit so it still makes sense on a small scale.
a few examples
