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Messages - eishiya
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1
Pixel Art / Re: [Feedback] [CC] Fantasy iso 1bit-BW Mockup
« on: November 16, 2021, 11:47:02 pm »
The scenes feel "fantasy-like" in that they depict fantasy subjects, but I don't know what you're aiming for beyond that. When composing scenes, make sure you give characters some breathing room instead of cropping them or near them (unless making them feel boxed in is part of your storytelling goal). Scenes 1 (distant tree) and 3 (vaulted hallway) are my favourites of these, but they both have some awkward cropping on the characters.

Scenes 2 (campfire), 4 (bridge smash), and 6 (kiss) feel boring, the compositions don't really communicate any energy or emotion. If the campfire is meant to be intimate, move us closer, let us focus on the characters' faces and interactions. If it's meant to feel cold and distance, zoom out more. If the bridge smash is meant to feel grand and objective, then perhaps show it somewhat from below to make the creature feel larger, and to show the stakes (the distance to fall). If the bridge scene is meant to make us feel what the characters are feeling, then move us closer to the characters, show us the scene from their perspective, show that huge fist coming at them, with the creature in the background. For the kiss, consider using multiple shots, so that we can see both of the characters' expressions. If the girl wants the kiss, have her reciprocate by embracing him or at least leaning in, right now it looks like the guy is kissing a statue. The medium shot is very neutral, it's good to establish what's about to happen, but for the kiss itself, I'd probably zoom in.

The dragon scene is pretty cool, but I'd pull the camera lower to the ground so that it's eye-level with the character, I think that'll make the dragon seem scarier. The view is currently more objective, which makes the dragon seem smaller and weaker than it's probably intended to be.

If you want to do an isometric scene in pixel art, then you only really have one good option: something like the last example, with 1:2 slope lines. Anything else is either going to give you jaggy lines, or it's not going to be isometric.

2
General Discussion / Re: Do People Still Use this Website/Forum?
« on: November 04, 2021, 02:01:25 am »
That's good to hear, thank you! Maybe I'll check the PJ server out again some time.

3
General Discussion / Re: Do People Still Use this Website/Forum?
« on: November 02, 2021, 07:47:45 pm »
Does the PJ Discord still have a single channel for both off-topic chatter and art feedback? That was one of the things I really didn't like about it when I was there, there was no way to mute channels such that I would only get notifications for art-related conversations. I suggested the idea of splitting them, but the moderation preferred to keep them merged.

4
General Discussion / Re: Do People Still Use this Website/Forum?
« on: October 30, 2021, 06:07:39 pm »
PixelJoint's the only somewhat-active website I can recommend.

As for Discords, I can't recommend any as I've not looked at any of them in a long time.

5
General Discussion / Re: Do People Still Use this Website/Forum?
« on: October 28, 2021, 06:54:32 pm »
Most of the community moved to Discord, yeah. PixelJoint has more art-related activity on the site, but even the users there seem to be mostly on Discord. Shame, because I don't get on with Discord for art feedback, the post format is just too inflexible >:

Another problem is that a lot of the older artists are too busy for this place or don't have use for it anymore, and there hasn't been much influx of newer artists, because most of them are on Twitter and Instagram and such instead, but those aren't communities as such.

Discord is mostly where the community has gone, but it's still splintered. And I've yet to find a pixel art Discord I like, there's not enough pixel art happening at any of them for my taste :'D (Granted, I haven't tried out very many, they're hard to find if you're not in the "in" crowd.)

6
2D & 3D / Re: Wing Commander Pixel Art-y Unity Remake
« on: May 15, 2021, 01:24:05 pm »
These new ones look noisier than the old ones. I realise you're at the mercy of your shader, but I think the noisiness is worth addressing if possible. The seat and visor highlights have the most noticeable noise, to me.

There's some rather nasty moire on the seatbelts. I don't know how much control you have over that, but perhaps it would look better if it faded to a solid grey instead of trying to reproduce these too-thin-to-show lines?

7
General Discussion / Re: Octagon in top-down perspective?
« on: March 28, 2021, 06:50:16 pm »
I recommend reading those tutorials from Cyangmou that Ryumaru mentioned, they explain how perspective comes into play quite well. I think if that stuff clicks for you, you'll have a much easier time figuring out how to draw octagons (any any other shape) in a way that fits with the rest of your game. Part 1, part 2, part 3. They're not that long a read.

A lot of it is down to what looks good, but understanding the perspective/projection you're using makes it a lot easier to arrive at a result that looks good without a lot of trial and error. While there might not be "set formulas", there are broad rules you can follow to figure out, for example, where the gable on a house roof should be placed to make the roof look gabled rather than like a lean-to, or to figure out the size and shape of the top of a barrel or crate so that those props look like they exist in the same space.

Quote
Same with the boxes above the crates example, the left one is a box lying down, middle is a cube and the right one is a box standing up.
This bit perplexes me. A cubic box is a cube no matter which side it's resting on, because all the sides are the same size. The top box is a box seen in isometric or 3/4 view, the bottom box (a square) is a box seen from directly above, or from the side (sidescroller view). If I encountered both of these in a 3/4 game, the square would look like a piece of cardboard or a flag or something, because it has no depth - if it had depth, we'd see it.

8
Pixel Art / Re: Minotaur - seeks advice
« on: March 04, 2021, 09:10:45 pm »
Quote
This is a common critique for me. Should the creases go a tint lighter?
The less light can hit an area, the darker the shadow. The small creases between muscles are very small and still get plenty of light. The large form shadows where the body is turned away from the light or where something blocks the light generally get less light, and thus should be darker. You can break this "rule" to help some details stand out when you need them, but you should generally try to think in terms of light and where it reaches and doesn't reach.

9
Pixel Art / Re: Grass
« on: February 08, 2021, 02:50:27 pm »
Tiled is fantastic for all sorts of tiled work, and it has a bunch of tools for autotiling. It doesn't let you edit the tile art within the program, but for using the tiles once you've made them, I doubt there's anything better. It will auto-update the tiles when they're modified by an outside program though, so you can fairly quickly (though not instantly) see the changes you make to the tiles in Aseprite or other image editor.

You can export your Tiled maps as PNGs after you've made them, so you can pop them back into Aseprite for adding more art if you want.

10
Pixel Art / Re: Grass
« on: February 08, 2021, 12:41:07 am »
My "trick" is to use tiles, but
- with several variants, 4+ different tiles
- small enough tiles that there aren't big distinct shapes of grass within the tile that will be noticeable when repeated
- with different edges that line up to form different grass clump shapes when put together (this too benefits from smaller tiles)

Towards the end (after placing any props and such, which will cover up a lot of the tiling), the remaining bits where tiling is still noticeable can be touched up manually.

This is the method I'd employ for almost all terrains, tbh - grass, dirt, water, bricks, as well as transitions.

It's a lot easier to avoid the "tiled" look with tiles than it is to manually obtain a good level of polish on an un-tiled expanse like this. The key thing to avoid the appearance of a grid, rather than avoid tiles entirely. Break up those blocky straight transitions, and use a good set of variant tiles, and most people won't even notice you're using tiles at all.


In addition: you can embrace solid areas of colour. Your grass right now, completely solid green, actually looks pretty good, just a little boring! Solid colours "tile" perfectly, don't look tiled, and are easy to draw. All you need to do to keep the image from being boring is to break up the negative space with just enough unique elements and props that the scene doesn't look empty, you don't have to fill it all with texture.

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