A reference would really really help now. But there aren't many wave-in-motion references...
Anyway, I'm unsure if the kind of wave you're trying to make is the kind of wave you really want. This wave looks fairly "aggressive", the kind of wave surfers take advantage of when they get big enough. Some waves never even break, though, and just look like giant ripples moving over the water. I'm not sure how stormy that ocean there would be, but I think that kind of wave would fit the style better.
No idea how to animate one, though... Again, references would be good...
One thing you don't need a reference for is the line where the beach meets the water. It looks far too defined, and far too dark. It looks almost like the spot where the water stops is a couple of feet below the lighter edge, and I don't think that's the intent. The waves would never have the exact same shape, so it wouldn't be possible to have such a defined line. I think you should try a softer, more gradient like transition. The water should probably break up a little on the way back, too. I was about to say it retreats too slowly, but I don't think it does. Part of the water does, but not all of it. There should be some water lingering after, taking a bit more time to disappear.
... but it's damn hard both to explain and visualize... References anyone?!