How Do You Convert iTunes to MP3 Format Without Losing Quality

You’ve probably been there. You have a massive library of songs sitting in Apple’s ecosystem, but you just bought a non-Apple device or want to play your tracks on a specialized media player. Maybe you’re an audiophile trying to keep your car’s head unit happy. The big question is: how do you convert iTunes to MP3 format without jumping through a dozen hoops or, worse, paying for some sketchy software you found on a third-page Google result?

Honestly, it’s easier than most people think. Apple doesn't exactly shout it from the rooftops because they'd rather you stay tucked away in their proprietary AAC (Advanced Audio Coding) world. AAC is technically "better" than MP3 at lower bitrates, but compatibility is king. If your file doesn't play on your device, it's useless. Period.

Let’s get one thing straight before we dive in. We are talking about songs you actually own. If you’re trying to convert tracks downloaded from an Apple Music subscription, you're going to hit a wall. Those are protected by DRM (Digital Rights Management). That’s a whole different ballgame involving legal gray areas and specialized "recorders" that basically re-record the audio as it plays. But for those old CD rips or purchases from the iTunes Store? That's what we're fixing today.

The Settings Menu is Hiding the Goods

Most people open the Music app (or iTunes on Windows) and look for a "Convert" button. You won't find it. Not at first. You have to tell the software what you want it to become before it gives you the option.

On a Mac running a modern OS (Ventura, Sonoma, or Sequoia), you need to head up to the Music menu and hit Settings. If you’re on a PC, it’s Edit then Preferences.

Look for the Files tab. Inside there, you’ll see a button labeled Import Settings. This is the secret sauce. By default, it’s usually set to "AAC Encoder." Switch that dropdown to MP3 Encoder.

Now, don't just click "OK" and run away. Quality matters. If you leave it on "Good Quality (128 kbps)," your music is going to sound like it’s being played through a tin can underwater. You want to change the Setting to Higher Quality (192 kbps) or, even better, Custom. If you choose Custom, crank that bitrate up to 320 kbps. It’s the gold standard for MP3s. Sure, the file size is bigger, but storage is cheap in 2026. Your ears will thank you when you aren't hearing those weird "swishy" artifacts in the cymbals and high-end frequencies.

Executing the Conversion

Once you’ve locked in those settings, the process is actually kind of satisfying. Go back to your library. Highlight the songs you want to change. You can select one, or just hit Command+A (or Ctrl+A) to grab everything.

Go to File in the top menu bar, hover over Convert, and suddenly—like magic—a new option appears: Create MP3 Version.

Click it.

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You’ll hear that classic "ding" or camera-shutter sound for every song it finishes. The app is essentially duplicating the file. It takes the original source and transcodes it into a brand-new MP3 file. This is crucial to remember: iTunes doesn't replace the old file. It creates a copy. If you’re low on hard drive space, you’re going to have two versions of every song—one AAC/M4A and one MP3. You’ll probably want to go back and delete the old ones later, or at least move them to an external drive.

Why 320 kbps Actually Matters

I’ve heard people argue that you can’t tell the difference between 128 kbps and 320 kbps. They’re wrong. Well, mostly. On cheap earbuds? Maybe not. But if you have a decent pair of Sennheisers or a solid home theater setup, the compression becomes obvious.

MP3 is a "lossy" format. It works by literally throwing away data that the human ear supposedly can't hear. When you convert from one lossy format (AAC) to another (MP3), you are performing what’s called "transcoding." It’s like making a photocopy of a photocopy. You lose a little bit of "soul" each time. By using the maximum 320 kbps bitrate, you’re minimizing that digital decay. It’s the best way to answer the "how do you convert iTunes to MP3 format" dilemma without ruining your favorite album.

What About the Old Protected Files?

If you’ve been using iTunes since the early 2000s, you might have some files with the .m4p extension. These are the "Protected AAC" files from the era when Steve Jobs had to convince record labels that digital music wouldn't lead to total anarchy.

You can't convert these using the method above. The "Create MP3 Version" button will literally just be grayed out or throw an error.

The "official" way to handle this is through iTunes Match or an Apple Music subscription. If the song is still available in the store, you can delete the protected version and download a "high-quality" DRM-free version (256 kbps AAC). Then, you can follow the MP3 conversion steps.

There is a "lo-fi" workaround: burn them to a virtual CD and rip them back. It’s tedious. It feels like 2005. But it works because the DRM is stripped during the CD-burning process. Most people don't have the patience for that anymore, so checking for the DRM-free upgrade in your account is usually the smarter play.

The Windows Factor

Windows users often have a harder time because the iTunes for Windows app is... let's be honest, it's a bit of a dinosaur. Apple has been trying to move people toward the "Apple Devices" and "Apple Music" apps on the Microsoft Store.

If you're using the new Apple Music app on Windows 11, the process is almost identical to the Mac version.

1. Open the app.
2. Click the three dots or go to Settings.
3. Find Files -> Import Settings.
4. Set it to MP3.
5. Highlight your music and use the File > Convert path.

If you are stuck on the old iTunes "desktop" version (the one with the sidebar), the "Import Settings" are tucked away inside the General tab of the Preferences menu. It’s slightly different positioning, but the logic remains the same.

Metadata and Album Art Hassles

One thing nobody warns you about: metadata. Sometimes, when you convert, the album art doesn't make the trip. Or the "Year" tag gets stripped.

Usually, the built-in converter handles this fine, but if you’re moving these MP3s to a very specific device—like a Sony Walkman or a specialized DJ software like Serato—you might find things look messy. If that happens, you’ll want a secondary tool like MP3Tag. It’s a free utility that lets you batch-fix headers.

When Should You Use a Third-Party Converter?

I generally tell people to stay away from "Free Online MP3 Converters." They’re usually riddled with ads, and you have to upload your files to their servers. That’s slow and a privacy nightmare.

However, if you have thousands of songs and iTunes keeps crashing, a dedicated tool like dbpoweramp or Foobar2000 is worth its weight in gold. These programs are "multi-threaded." iTunes converts songs one by one. dbpoweramp can use all the cores in your processor to convert eight or sixteen songs at the same time. If you’re converting a 50GB library, we’re talking about the difference between a four-hour job and a twenty-minute job.

Actionable Steps for a Clean Library

To get the best results when you convert iTunes to MP3 format, follow this specific workflow to keep your files organized and high-quality:

• Audit your bitrates: Before converting, check the "Bit Rate" column in iTunes. If the source is only 128 kbps, converting it to 320 kbps MP3 won't magically make it sound better. It’ll just create a bloated file. In that case, match the source bitrate.
• Set the Import Method: Change your settings to MP3 Encoder at 320 kbps (Custom) before doing anything else.
• Convert in Batches: Don’t try to do 10,000 songs at once if your computer is older. Start with one genre or artist to make sure the results sound right.
• The "Double Entry" Cleanup: After the conversion is done, use the "Date Added" column to sort your library. All your new MP3s will be at the top. This makes it easy to move them into a specific folder on your desktop for export.
• Verify Playability: Copy a handful of the new files to your target device immediately. Check that the track names and artists show up correctly before you delete the originals.

Converting files is fundamentally about freedom of hardware. Whether you're moving to an Android ecosystem, prepping a USB drive for your car, or just archiving music in a format that will likely be readable for the next fifty years, the MP3 remains the most resilient choice. Apple’s software makes it look like a closed system, but once you find that "Import Settings" toggle, you’re back in control of your media.