The 1973 Buick Riviera is a bit of a weird bird. Honestly, if you’re looking at a 1973 Riviera for sale today, you’re looking at the end of an era that some people love and others... well, others think it’s where the magic died. It was the third and final year of the famous "boattail" design, a styling cue inspired by the classic speedsters of the 1930s. Jerry Hirshberg, the guy who headed the design team under Bill Mitchell, famously had mixed feelings about how the production car actually turned out because it got bigger and heavier than the original clay models intended.
It’s big. Seriously.
When you see one in a parking lot, it swallows the space. By 1973, federal mandates were starting to ruin the clean lines of 60s muscle, and the Riviera didn't escape the carnage. Those federally mandated 5-mph front bumpers added a massive chunk of chrome to the nose, which changed the profile compared to the '71 and '72 models. Some collectors hate the 1973 front end. They think it looks like the car has a massive overbite. But here’s the thing: because of that specific "one-year-only" look and the fact that the boat-tail rear was softened slightly compared to the earlier versions, the '73 is often the most affordable way into this body style.
Why the 1973 Riviera for Sale Market is Heating Up
For a long time, the 1973 model was the "red-headed stepchild" of the boattail generation. The 1971 is the purist's choice with its high-compression engine options, and the 1972 is the middle ground. But lately, prices for the '71 and '72 have climbed so high that people are rediscovering the '73. It's basically the same car underneath. You still get that glorious 455 cubic inch V8. Sure, by 1973, the horsepower ratings looked pathetic on paper—we’re talking 250 or 260 net hp for the Stage 1—but that’s because the industry switched from gross to net ratings. The torque is still there. It still moves like a freight train once you get it rolling.
Finding a 1973 Riviera for sale that hasn't been turned into a "donk" or rotted through the rear window channel is getting harder. Buick sold about 34,080 units in 1973. That sounds like a lot until you realize how many were crushed in the 80s or left to melt into the ground in midwestern fields.
Rust and the Rear Glass Nightmare
If you are looking at an ad and the seller says "just a little bubbling under the vinyl," run. Or at least, bring a magnet and a flashlight. The way Buick designed the rear window on these cars was practically a recipe for disaster. Water gets trapped under the trim and sits there until it eats through the metal. Replacing that glass is expensive. Repairing the metal around it is even worse.
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I’ve seen guys spend five figures just trying to fix the rear deck of a boattail because the compound curves are a nightmare for body shops. If the one you're looking at has a pristine rear channel, you’ve found a unicorn. Pay the premium. It's cheaper than the body shop bill later.
Mechanical Reality: The 455 and the TH400
Under the hood, you’re dealing with the Buick 455. It’s not a Chevy 454. Don't let someone tell you they are the same. The Buick engine is actually lighter than a small-block Chevy in some configurations because of the high nickel content and thin-wall casting. It’s a torque monster. However, it has a known weakness: oil pressure.
Buick oil pumps are housed in the aluminum timing cover. When the aluminum wears, you lose pressure. When searching for a 1973 Riviera for sale, always ask the owner what the oil pressure looks like at hot idle. If it's flickering at 5 psi, you’re looking at a timing cover replacement or a full rebuild soon.
The transmission is the Turbo-Hydramatic 400. It’s bulletproof. Literally. You can find these in old dump trucks and Ferraris from the same era. If it shifts hard or slips, it’s usually just a vacuum modulator or a filter change away from being fine, unless someone has been neutral-dropping it for a decade.
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What about the Stage 1?
You’ll see a lot of sellers claim their car is a "Stage 1." In 1973, the Stage 1 package was still an option, but it wasn't the monster it was in 1970. It came with a different camshaft, larger valves, and a specially tuned Quadrajet carb. You can check the VIN. The fifth character should be a "W" for the Stage 1. If it’s a "U," it’s the standard 455. Don't pay Stage 1 prices for a "U" code car, no matter how many stickers the owner put on the air cleaner.
Interior Funk and 70s Luxury
The 1973 interior is a masterclass in "more is more." You’ve got these massive, plush lounge seats. If the car has the "Max Trac" option—which was an early form of traction control—you’ve found something really cool. It rarely works now, but it’s a great talking point at car shows.
Most 1973 Rivieras you’ll find will have cracked dashboards. It’s just what they do. The sun beats down through that massive windshield and turns the vinyl into peanut brittle. Companies like Dash-Cap make covers, but a full restoration of the dash pad is a multi-thousand-dollar endeavor. Keep that in mind when negotiating the price.
Driving a Boat
Driving a Riviera is an experience. It’s not a sports car. It’s a personal luxury coupe. The steering is so over-assisted you can turn the wheel with your pinky finger. You don't feel the road; you just sort of suggest a direction and the car eventually agrees. It’s magnificent for a highway cruise. On a twisty backroad? You’ll feel like you’re captaining a ship in a storm.
Market Value: What to Pay
Prices are all over the place. A project car that needs everything will run you $5,000 to $8,000. A decent driver that looks good from twenty feet away usually lands in the $15,000 to $22,000 range. If you want a showroom-quality, low-mileage 1973 Stage 1, you better be ready to drop $40,000 or more.
Common places to find a 1973 Riviera for sale include:
- Bring a Trailer: Expect to pay a "curated" premium here.
- Facebook Marketplace: The wild west. You'll find deals, but you'll also find a lot of rust disguised as "patina."
- V8Buick.com forums: This is where the real experts hang out. If a car is for sale here, the community usually knows its entire history.
- ClassicCars.com: Good for finding dealer-sold units, though they are usually priced at the top of the market.
Actionable Steps for the Serious Buyer
If you’re actually ready to pull the trigger on a Riviera, don't just buy the first one that looks shiny in photos.
- Check the VIN first. Confirm if it’s a real Stage 1 (W-code) if that’s what’s being advertised.
- Inspect the "Boattail" Seam. Look inside the trunk. Look for signs of water pooling or amateur fiberglass repairs.
- Test the Power Windows. They use a cable system that is notoriously finicky. If they’re slow, the grease has likely turned to cement.
- Look at the Bumpers. The 1973-specific front bumper is hard to find in good shape. If it’s twisted or rusted through, finding a replacement is a chore compared to the more common '71-72 style.
- Verify the AC. These cars used the Harrison Frigidaire A6 compressor. They are great, but if the system is converted to R134a without the proper seals, it will leak.
The 1973 Riviera is a statement. It’s a car for people who want the world to know they’ve arrived, even if they arrived five minutes late because they were struggling to find a large enough parking spot. It’s the last of the flamboyant Buicks before the oil crisis forced everything to become small, square, and boring. Owning one isn't just about having a classic car; it's about preserving a specific moment in American automotive excess that we are never, ever going to see again.