Walk through any neighborhood in the American South during July, and you'll see them. Those explosive, neon-bright clusters of flowers that look like they're made of crumpled tissue paper. They're everywhere. But honestly, most people can't even agree on how to spell the name. Is it crepe myrtle or crape myrtle?
Well, both are technically right, though "crepe" is more common in the South because the flowers resemble the delicate French fabric. "Crape" is the older, more botanical spelling often found in dictionaries. Whatever you call it, Lagerstroemia is the undisputed "Lilac of the South," even though it actually hails from Asia.
These trees are tough. They thrive in heat that would make a maple wilt. They handle drought like champs once they’re established. Yet, despite their popularity, we see them mistreated constantly. You’ve probably seen the "murders." Those poor trees topped off until they look like knobby fists? Yeah, that’s not pruning. That’s a horticultural crime.
Why the Crepe Myrtle Crape Myrtle Debate Actually Matters
If you're searching for these trees online, you'll see the spelling split right down the middle. Most nurseries use "crepe," while the American Horticultural Society leans toward "crape." It’s one of those weird linguistic divides. But the name is the least of your worries if you plant the wrong variety.
People buy these on impulse. They see a gorgeous 3-gallon pot at a big-box store with a picture of red flowers and think, "That'll look great under my window." Fast forward five years, and that little shrub is now a 25-foot monster scraping the gutters.
The Genetics of Size
You have to understand that Lagerstroemia species—mostly indica and fauriei—have been hybridized into oblivion. Dr. Egolf at the National Arboretum did some incredible work decades ago, creating the "Native American" series. You might recognize names like Natchez (white), Muskogee (lavender), or Tonto (fuchsia).
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These aren't just random names. They tell you exactly how big the tree will get.
- Natchez is a beast. It will hit 30 feet easily.
- Tonto stays more like a large shrub, topping out around 8 to 10 feet.
- Acoma spreads wide but stays low, perfect for smaller yards.
If you don't check the tag for the mature height, you’re setting yourself up for a lifetime of aggressive pruning. And that leads us to the most controversial topic in Southern gardening.
The Tragedy of "Crepe Murder"
Every February, like clockwork, homeowners and "mow-blow-and-go" crews head out with chainsaws. They hack the tops off their crepe myrtle crape myrtle trees, leaving ugly, blunt stumps.
Why do they do it?
Some think it makes the tree bloom more. Others just do it because their neighbor does.
Here’s the reality: it weakens the tree.
When you top a crepe myrtle, it panics. It sends out long, whip-like suckers from the cut site. These branches are structurally weak. When they eventually bloom, the heavy flower heads cause the branches to flop over or snap during a summer thunderstorm. Plus, it ruins the tree's natural silhouette. A well-pruned crepe myrtle should have beautiful, smooth, exfoliating bark that looks like a sculpture in the winter. You lose all of that when you "murder" it.
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If your tree is too big for the space, you didn't prune it wrong; you planted the wrong variety.
Dealing With the "Ick": Aphids and Mildew
Let's talk about the sticky stuff. If you’ve ever parked your car under a crepe myrtle crape myrtle and come back to find it covered in a tacky film, you’ve met "honeydew." It's a polite name for aphid poop.
Crepe myrtle aphids are host-specific. They only eat these trees. While they won't usually kill the tree, they make a mess and lead to "sooty mold"—that black, charcoal-looking stuff that coats the leaves.
Modern Resistance
Back in the day, Powdery Mildew was the big enemy. It would turn the flower buds into white, fuzzy balls that never opened. Thankfully, modern hybrids are much tougher. When looking for a tree, specifically look for those Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei crosses. The fauriei bloodline brings in that cinnamon-colored peeling bark and massive resistance to fungus.
The New Threat: Bark Scale
There is a newer kid on the block called Crepe Myrtle Bark Scale (CMBS). It’s an invasive felt-like insect that turns the trunk white and, eventually, black with mold. It's tough to get rid of. If you see white crusty spots on the bark that "bleed" pink when you crush them, you’ve got it. Beneficial insects like Ladybugs (specifically the Twice-stabbed Lady Beetle) are your best friends here. Systemic treatments work, but you have to time them right so you don't kill the bees that love the pollen.
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How to Actually Make Them Thrive
Soil doesn't have to be perfect. Honestly, these trees are pretty scrappy. They'll grow in clay, sand, or rocky dirt, provided the water drains away. They hate wet feet. If they sit in a swamp, the roots will rot faster than you can say "Tonto."
Sun is non-negotiable. You need six hours of direct, blazing sun. At least. If you plant them in the shade, they’ll get leggy, they won't bloom, and the mildew will have a field day.
Planting Steps
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the pot but no deeper.
- Don't bury the "flare"—where the trunk meets the roots.
- Mulch, but keep it away from the trunk. No mulch volcanoes.
- Water deeply once a week instead of a little bit every day.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Garden
If you're looking to add one of these to your landscape, stop looking at the flower color and start looking at the label.
- Check the mature height first. If the tag doesn't say, Google the variety name before you buy it.
- Inspect the trunk for Scale. Look for white, waxy bumps near the branch crotches. Don't bring a pest home.
- Wait until late winter to prune. Only remove the "3 D's": dead, damaged, or diseased wood. If two branches are rubbing together, take one out. Otherwise, let it be.
- Fertilize lightly in spring. Use a slow-release balanced fertilizer. Don't overdo the Nitrogen, or you'll get a ton of green leaves but zero flowers.
Keeping a crepe myrtle crape myrtle healthy isn't about constant work. It’s about choosing the right spot and then staying out of the tree's way. Let it grow into the graceful, multi-trunked specimen it was meant to be. The result is a tree that provides shade, incredible summer color, and stunning winter interest for decades.