You just found a deal. A "mint condition" iPad Pro is sitting on a marketplace for half the retail price, and the seller seems legit. They say it’s barely used. You’re ready to pull the trigger, but there’s a nagging feeling in your gut. This is where you need to check IMEI for iPad data before you even think about opening your wallet. Honestly, it’s the only way to know if you’re buying a high-end tablet or a very expensive paperweight.
Buying used tech is a gamble. Most people focus on the screen scratches or the battery health, but the "identity" of the device matters way more.
The International Mobile Equipment Identity (IMEI) is a unique 15-digit code assigned to every cellular-capable iPad. Think of it like a Social Security number. It’s hardcoded into the hardware. While Wi-Fi-only iPads technically use a Serial Number instead of an IMEI, the process for vetting them is almost identical. If you’re looking at a model with a SIM tray, that IMEI is your golden ticket to seeing the device's history, its theft status, and whether it’s still under a payment plan.
Where to find that 15-digit string
Finding the number isn't rocket science, but you’d be surprised how many people look in the wrong spot. The easiest way is through the software. Open Settings, tap General, and then hit About. Scroll down. You’ll see the IMEI listed there.
If the iPad is locked or won’t turn on, don't panic. Apple actually etches the IMEI or Serial Number directly onto the back of the device. It’s in that tiny, microscopic text near the bottom. You might need a magnifying glass or a quick photo with your phone to zoom in.
For those who have the original box—maybe you’re selling your own device—it’s on the white barcode sticker. But a word of caution: if you are a buyer, never trust the box alone. Scammers can put a stolen iPad inside a box from a clean device. Always verify that the number in the software matches the number on the chassis.
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The blacklisted nightmare
Why does this matter? Because of the blacklist.
When an iPad is reported lost or stolen, the carrier adds the IMEI to a global database. Once that happens, the device can’t connect to cellular networks. It’s essentially flagged. If you buy a blacklisted iPad, you can’t fix it. There is no "hacker" who can magically scrub that ID from the GSMA database.
You should also check for MDM (Mobile Device Management) locks. These are common in iPads that used to belong to schools or corporations. If a business "forgot" to remove the iPad from their management system, they can remotely lock you out or track your location at any time. A standard IMEI check won't always show MDM, but specialized tools like iFreeiCloud or Sickw often provide deeper insight into whether a device is "Enrolled" in a program.
iCloud status and Activation Lock
Let’s talk about the big one. Activation Lock.
Apple’s "Find My" feature is great for security but a nightmare for second-hand buyers. If the previous owner didn't sign out of their Apple ID, that iPad is tied to them forever. You can’t bypass it. You can't just factory reset it and hope for the best.
When you check IMEI for iPad status, you’re looking for "Find My iPad: OFF." If it says ON, and the seller says they "forgot the password," walk away. Immediately. It’s either stolen or the seller is too disorganized to be trusted with a multi-hundred dollar transaction.
Real-world tools that actually work
Don't just Google "free IMEI check" and click the first link. A lot of those sites are just ad-farms that give you outdated info.
If you want the truth, use the official Apple Support page to check coverage. While it doesn't explicitly say "this is stolen," it will tell you if the serial number is valid and if there’s an active AppleCare+ plan.
For the nitty-gritty stuff—the carrier lock status or the exact purchase date—sites like IMEI.info or IMEICheck.com are the industry standards. They pull data from the GSMA registry. Some of these services charge a dollar or two for a "Pro" report. Honestly? It's worth it. Spending $2 to ensure you aren't wasting $500 is just smart math.
The Wi-Fi iPad exception
Remember, if your iPad is Wi-Fi only, it doesn’t have an IMEI. It has a Serial Number.
Does this mean you’re safe from the blacklist? Sorta. Wi-Fi iPads can’t be blocked from cellular networks because they don't use them. However, they can still be Activation Locked. You still need to run that Serial Number through Apple's coverage check to make sure the device hasn't been flagged as replaced or stolen from a retail store.
Decoding the iPad's past
There’s a little trick with the Model Number that most people miss. Go back to Settings > General > About and look at the Model Number.
- If it starts with M, it was bought new.
- If it starts with F, it’s an official Apple Refurbished unit.
- If it starts with N, it was a replacement device provided by Apple (usually via an insurance claim).
- If it starts with P, it was personalized with an engraving.
This tells you a story. If a seller claims they "bought it brand new last month" but the model number starts with an N, they’re lying. It was a replacement unit. Maybe that doesn't change the value for you, but it's a great litmus test for the seller’s honesty.
What to do if the IMEI comes back "Clean" but something feels off
Sometimes an IMEI is clean simply because the owner hasn't realized it's missing yet. If you're meeting in person, there are a few "boots on the ground" tests you have to run.
Insert your own SIM card if it's a cellular model. Does it grab a signal? Does the LTE/5G icon pop up? If it stays on "Searching" or "No Service" even with a valid SIM, the internal antenna might be shot, or the IMEI is in the process of being blacklisted.
Check the "Parts and Service History" section in the About menu. If the iPad has had a screen or battery replacement, iOS 15.2 and later will show it here. If you see "Unknown Part," it means a third-party shop used a cheap, non-genuine component. This significantly tanks the resale value.
Why carriers "lock" iPads
Unlike iPhones, most iPads sold directly by Apple are unlocked. But, if someone bought an iPad on a payment plan from Verizon or AT&T, that carrier might lock the IMEI until the device is paid off.
If you buy an iPad that is still under contract, and the original owner stops making payments, the carrier will blacklist that IMEI. You’ll have a Wi-Fi-only tablet that can never use data again. Always ask the seller for proof of purchase or a "clear title" statement.
Steps to take before handing over the cash
You’ve checked the IMEI. It’s clean. Find My is off. The model starts with M. You’re good, right? Not quite.
Before you leave, make sure the seller does a full "Erase All Content and Settings." Watch them do it. When the iPad reboots to the "Hello" screen, go through the setup process until you get to the Wi-Fi screen. If it asks for a previous owner's Apple ID during this setup, the device is still locked.
If the seller refuses to do this or says they'll "do it when they get home," the deal is over. No exceptions.
Practical next steps for a secure purchase
If you're currently staring at a listing, follow this specific order of operations to protect yourself:
- Ask for the IMEI/Serial Number upfront. If the seller refuses to give it, stop talking to them. There is no legitimate privacy reason to hide this from a serious buyer.
- Run the number through a GSMA database. Verify it isn't blacklisted.
- Check the Apple Coverage site. See if the "Estimated Expiration Date" for the warranty aligns with what the seller is telling you.
- Verify the iCloud status. Use a third-party checker to ensure "Activation Lock" is OFF.
- Meet in a safe location with Wi-Fi. You need an internet connection to verify that the iPad can actually reach Apple's servers during the setup process.
- Test the physical ports. Bring a power bank and a cable. Make sure it actually charges.
Don't let the excitement of a new gadget cloud your judgment. The iPad market is flooded with "gray market" devices that look perfect on the outside but are digital bricks on the inside. A five-minute IMEI check is the difference between a great deal and a total loss.
Check the number. Verify the story. Only then, pay the money.
Actionable Insight: If you've already purchased an iPad and discovered it's blacklisted, your options are limited. Contact the seller for a refund immediately. If they've disappeared, you can try contacting the carrier listed in the IMEI report, though they rarely unlock devices for anyone other than the original account holder. Your best bet is to use the device as a Wi-Fi-only tablet or sell it for parts, clearly disclosing its status to the next buyer.