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Messages - eishiya
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1
Pixel Art / Re: House for a game
« on: May 22, 2017, 03:05:09 pm »
MysteryMeat: Turf roofing is really good, cheap insulation. In Iceland, the idea was taken a step further, with turf being used for walls as well. On the back side, they are built up against a hill for even more insulation, so it's just the narrow front of the house that gets a relatively-uninsulated wooden front.

OP, remember: that's turf, not just grass. Without the dirt to give the grass a place to root, there's nothing to provide that insulation and the grass will die. Give that roof some thickness!
Also, consider not leaving the walls blank wood, unless this is meant to be a poor person's house (in which case it looks pretty fancy, with its two finely-made chimneys) - walls were whitewashed, painted, etc as much to protect the wood from rot and water as they were for decoration. Places where untreated wood was common were usually either devoid of any materials that could provide such protection, or poor (or the houses weren't expected to last more than a few years anyway, as e.g. in the case of nomads or places with many earthquakes).

The cast shadows on the roof and walls don't seem to follow the forms of the material, they're just straight-edged triangles. Cast shadows only have straight edges if they're falling on completely flat surfaces! The grass would break up the edge of the shadow, and the shadow would seep into the cracks between the wooden beams a bit (and if they're meant to be a bit sounded, the shadow would have a wavy edge).
In addition, your cast shadows being triangles doesn't make sense in the first place. Think about where the light is coming from, and where it's hitting. Remember, shadows are the result of objects being 3D! Don't just think in terms of flat shapes, think about the 3D forms making up your scene, and how they interact with light. Shadows aren't arbitrary, they're determined by the form of the thing casting them, and the direction(s) of the light.

2
General Discussion / Re: Posting a gif question
« on: May 21, 2017, 07:05:33 pm »
Make sure you use the URL of the image, not the page it's on. The URL will most likely end in .gif. If it doesn't, then it's probably not the image. By default, imgur's share URLs point to the page rather than the image.

You can get the image URL by right-clicking on the image and clicking "Copy Image URL" or going into the image's properties and getting it from there. You can also drag it to the address bar of your browser to get the URL.
If you have an imgur account, you can also get the image URL from the extended list of URLs that you get when you click on the image in your albums.

3
Pixel Art / Re: [C+C] [WIP] Game character
« on: May 18, 2017, 07:43:08 pm »
That's still a cast shadow rather than a form shadow, but it does help.
Take a look at the first of the examples you posted. That's also mostly cast shadows, but look at how much more contrast there is compared to yours. It's super-clear what's in shadow and what's in light. That helps a lot.

The new scarf colour has the same value as the shirt, so it blends in. Make sure important things have different values (darkness/lightness), to avoid this blending together. Always preview your work at 1x (or 2x if that's as small as it'll be in game). What's clear zoomed in might not be visible at all zoomed out.

4
Pixel Art / Re: [C+C] [WIP] Game character
« on: May 18, 2017, 06:03:14 pm »
Create larger-scale forms with your shadows, don't worry so much about detials. All of these scarves have nice details, but the sprite still feels very flat because there are no form shadows. All of your shadows are detail shadows and small cast shadows, you have no form shadows. The contrast is also very low.

5
Pixel Art / Re: [CC]Trying to find a anatomy/body style.
« on: May 18, 2017, 02:02:57 pm »
Bodies aren't made of shapes, they're made of forms - they're 3D. A shape-based method will fall apart as soon as you have any foreshortening or a different camera angle. I recommend focusing on learning the basic forms that make up the body (no shortage of non-pixel resources on that). Translating that to pixel art is just a matter of clean-up - the mental work is all the same.

6
Pixel Art / Re: [C+C] [WIP] Game character
« on: May 17, 2017, 03:55:01 pm »
I think an important part of this look is to not rely on outlines. Outlines take up pixels that could be put to better use creating detail, shadow, and motion. Avoiding outlines means designing your characters in a way that allows important parts (e.g. arms and the torso) to be separated by value and/or hue, without need for outlines. With your character's hoodie, that might mean either colouring the sleeves another colour, or posing the character so that their torso is more in shadow (i.e. with light only on their shoulders and arms), so that the arms can be lit against it.

Having interesting poses and bright, contrasting lighting is also important. Dull lighting and a plank-like pose are not conducive to the style you're aiming for. Moreover, such posing doesn't communicate anything interesting about the character. What is the character like? How would they stand? How would they summon up their powers? How would they strike? Think about this. It might seem easier to do a dull standing/walking pose, but it's actually harder in some ways, precisely because it doesn't give you opportunities for interesting overlaps and playing with light/shadow. If a character's arms are stuck to their sides, then of course they're going to be lit about the same way and are going to blend into the torso. If you can pose them in another way, then light/shadow will create the contrast you need.

7
Pixel Art / Re: [WIP] My Hero Academia
« on: May 16, 2017, 01:51:11 pm »
That 3D anime head doesn't connect to the neck the way a real head does (the back of the head is more complex than just a ball), and with a chibi style like in your drawing, the situation gets even worse since chibi heads can't connect in a believable way.

I wouldn't worry about it. If you were to connect the head realistically, it'd be too far forward. If you connect it so the head's in a realistic location, the neck will appear too far forward. If you lower the head to hide the neck's location, the pose will read differently from what you probably intend. I think your first edit is fine. You could perhaps move it forward by another pixel without it looking too weird, but it's not going to look good to everybody no matter what you do, just by virtue of chibis making no anatomical sense.

8
Pixel Art / Re: Tileset WIP not looking the best :(
« on: May 13, 2017, 03:45:05 pm »
Seconding Cyangmou that the rocks are too small. Even ignoring the scale problems, they create a lot of noise, making it harder to see the important parts - where the playable area is, and the details of the characters in front of them! If you don't have time to redesign the rock tiles, consider at least playing with their colours to help the scene read more readily.

I'd reduce the contrast on the background rocks, or maybe even use just the two lighter colours on it. The characters get lost against it.
I'd also make the borders between the tops of the rocks (in the walkable/playable area) thinner and perhaps use a 4th colour to make them lighter. As-is, it's not immediately clear what's horizontal and what's vertical because they have about the same value. Try creating the tops of the rocks with just the two lighter colours, using the 3rd colour very sparingly to create a little bit of extra depth.

Here's a small edit, I modified only the colours of the background rocks, and some of the horizontal surface to the right of the white cat:

Isn't it easier to tell what can be walked on and what's a wall like this? Personally, I'd go further by either adding a 4th highlight colour to the tops, or using the current lightest colour much more sparingly along the vertical parts, so that the playable area is even clearer.

9
Pixel Art / Re: My first pixel art :)
« on: May 10, 2017, 06:01:40 pm »
Looks like you upscaled it weird. For example, the ropes on the balloon are 2px wide in some places, 1px in others. If you scale things in the middle of working, that'll require redoing the previous stuff to match the new scale, or it'll look all jagged like this most recent piece.

10
General Discussion / Re: Sprite sizing for 2D games?
« on: May 09, 2017, 06:23:39 pm »
As long as they're all to the same scale and are all displayed with the same zoom (not mixing pixel scales), size doesn't really matter.

Even-number sizes make flipping the sprite more predictable, but other than that, the sizes don't matter in modern engines. Old systems had sprites that were made of 8x8 or 16x16 tiles and were read from memory as tiles, but that's not the case with modern 2D rendering, which deals with texture images addressed as a unit square (i.e. not by the tile or by the pixel). As long as your texture atlas (a big texture that gets loaded by the GPU and which contains most of your sprites to avoid texture-swapping mid-rendering) is of a size that the GPU likes, there's no problem. Most advanced engines take care of texture atlas stuff for you, and even if you make your atlas(es) by hand, the individual sizes of the sprites don't really matter.


I personally work with sprites that are some multiple of my tile size (which is usually 16px or some other multiple of 8 because I like round numbers), because my in-game logic is in terms of tiles and hitboxes are sizes in tiles, so it's easier for me to get a sense of scale that way. Keeping my hitboxes in mind from the beginning and sizing the sprites around them (with breathing room, of course) helps me avoid issues with characters not matching their hitboxes or having weirdly-sized hitboxes.

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