Honestly, the Oscars red carpet can feel a bit like a repeat sometimes. You see the same sparkly diamonds, the same safe chokers, and the same "classic" looks year after year. But at the 97th Academy Awards, Zoe Saldaña decided to change the script. She didn't just show up; she arrived wearing a piece of engineering that most people would call a necklace, but Cartier calls a "Panthères Versatiles."
It wasn't just some borrowed bling. This Zoe Saldana necklace Oscars 2025 moment was the result of nearly three years of silent, painstaking work in a Parisian workshop. We’re talking about 4,827 hours. If you did the math, that’s about 34 months of someone’s life dedicated to one single object.
The necklace itself is a beast—literally. It features the iconic Cartier panther, but not in the way you’ve seen it on your aunt's vintage brooch. It’s part of the Nature Sauvage collection, and it’s basically a transformable sculpture made of 18k white gold, onyx, and a sea of diamonds.
Why the Panthères Versatiles is Actually Insane
Most people saw a pretty green stone and some sparkles. What they missed was the technical wizardry. At the heart of the piece sits a 10.10-carat Zambian emerald. That’s not a small rock. It’s a "sugarloaf" cut, which gives it this soft, rounded pyramid shape that feels way more modern than a standard faceted gem.
But here’s the kicker: it’s modular.
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Saldana wore it tight to the neck for the red carpet, but the piece is designed to be taken apart. It has a second strand with a twin panther head. You can take that strand off and wear it as a bracelet. Or, you can attach it to the main body and drape it over your shoulders, so the panther heads sit on your collarbones while the emerald hangs down your back.
Zoe worked with her longtime stylist, Petra Flannery, to pick this out. They actually flew to Cartier’s legendary 13 Paix boutique in Paris to meet with Alexa Abitbol, the director of the High Jewellery workshop. It wasn't a "send me a tray of options" situation. It was an intimate, "let's find the soul of the look" meeting.
The Saint Laurent Connection
You can't talk about the jewelry without the dress. Zoe has been on a serious Saint Laurent kick lately, mostly because the brand’s production company actually produced her film Emilia Pérez. It’s a smart business move, but it also looks incredible.
For the big night—where she actually took home the Oscar for Best Supporting Actress—she wore a deep burgundy/maroon gown by Anthony Vaccarello. It had this layered, tiered satin skirt and a sheer mesh bodice.
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The color choice was a vibe. While everyone else was doing "quiet luxury" in beige or safe black, that wine-colored fabric made the green of the 10.10-carat emerald absolutely pop. It’s basic color theory, but executed at a million-dollar level.
What Most People Get Wrong About High Jewelry
There’s a misconception that these stars just "rent" a necklace for a night and that's it. For Zoe and Cartier, it’s a partnership. She’s a "Friend of the Maison," which is fancy talk for a brand ambassador who actually likes the stuff.
Earlier in the season, at the Golden Globes, she debuted the "Melis" set—a bee-inspired necklace that took 738 hours. People thought that was a lot of work. The Oscars necklace took six times longer to create.
Why This Necklace Matters for 2026 Trends
If you're watching fashion trends, this Zoe Saldana necklace Oscars 2025 moment signaled a massive shift. We’re moving away from static, heavy jewelry. People want pieces that move, change, and "do" something.
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- Versatility is King: The fact that a multi-million dollar necklace can become a bracelet or a shoulder piece is the ultimate flex.
- Green is the New White: Emeralds are having a massive moment, specifically Zambian emeralds which tend to have a deeper, cooler tone than Colombian ones.
- Animalier is Back: The panther is a 110-year-old symbol for Cartier, but the "abstracted" version Zoe wore proves you can do animal motifs without looking like a 1980s socialite.
How to Style Like Zoe (On a Budget)
Look, most of us aren't dropping 4,827 hours of labor on a necklace. But you can take the "Saldana Strategy" and apply it to your own wardrobe:
- Contrast your Colors: If you're wearing a deep red or burgundy, go for green accessories. It’s the most sophisticated contrast in the book.
- Think About the Neckline: Zoe’s dress was strapless with a bit of mesh, which gave the necklace a "clean canvas." If your jewelry is loud, your neckline should be quiet.
- Invest in "Convertible" Pieces: Look for necklaces that can be doubled up as bracelets or have removable charms. It’s the "high jewelry" mindset for the rest of us.
Zoe’s win for Emilia Pérez was historic, but that panther wrapping around her neck? That’s the image that’s going to stay in the fashion archives for decades. It was a perfect storm of a career-high moment and a jewelry masterpiece that actually took a human lifetime (well, 34 months of it) to bring to life.
If you're planning your next big event look, start by choosing one "hero" piece of jewelry and building the entire outfit around its color. Instead of matching your gems to your dress, find a gemstone that "fights" the dress color in a beautiful way—just like that green emerald against the burgundy silk.