Walk up to the base of Castle Rock in Nottingham and you’ll find a building that looks like it’s being slowly swallowed by the stone behind it. It’s wonky. It’s white-washed. It has a sign out front claiming it was established in 1189 AD.
Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem is more than just a place to grab a pint of Greene King IPA. It’s a piece of living history that sits at the intersection of myth, archaeology, and local pride. But is it actually the oldest pub in England?
Honestly, the answer is complicated.
If you ask the locals, they'll tell you the "Trip" is the undisputed champion. If you ask a historian, they might point you toward the Fighting Cocks in St Albans or the Bingley Arms in Leeds. This isn't just about a date on a sign; it's about what defines a "pub" and how much of the original structure actually survives from the 12th century.
The Caves and the Crusaders
Most people visit Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem for the atmosphere. You aren't just sitting in a room; you’re sitting in a cave. The pub is built directly into the soft Bunter sandstone of the cliff that supports Nottingham Castle.
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Back in 1189, King Richard the Lionheart was busy gathering his forces for the Third Crusade. Legend says that knights stayed here on their way to the Holy Land. That’s where the name comes from. "Trip" didn't mean a vacation back then; it meant a stop or a stay during a journey.
The caves were originally used as a brewhouse for the castle. Because the rock stays at a constant, cool temperature, it was the perfect place to store ale. You can still see the shafts that were used to hoist barrels up into the castle above.
It’s dark in there. The ceilings are low. The walls are literally the earth itself.
Walking through the Rock Lounge or the Yorkie’s Lounge, you feel the weight of eight hundred years of spilled beer and whispered secrets. But here’s the thing: while the caves are ancient, the actual brick-and-mortar building attached to the front is much newer. Most of the visible exterior dates back to the 16th or 17th centuries.
Does that matter? Probably not when you're three sips into a local bitter. But for the history buffs, it's a vital distinction. The site has been used for brewing since the 1100s, but the building as we see it today has evolved significantly over time.
Cursed Galleons and Pregnancy Chairs
Every old English pub needs a ghost or a curse. Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem has both, and they aren't your typical "lady in white" stories.
Look up in the Rock Lounge and you'll see a small, dusty wooden ship. This is the Cursed Galleon. It is absolutely filthy. Thick layers of dust cover every inch of it. Why doesn't anyone clean it? Because the last three people who did allegedly met a sudden and gruesome death.
It’s one of those bits of folklore that the staff takes surprisingly seriously. They won't touch it. They won't let you touch it. It sits in a glass case now, mostly to prevent any accidental cleaning or drunken dares that might lead to another casualty.
Then there’s the Pregnancy Chair.
It’s an old, uncomfortable-looking wooden chair that supposedly increases the fertility of any woman who sits in it. Some swear by it. Others laugh it off. The pub has a collection of thank-you cards and baby photos from people who claim the chair worked its magic.
Whether you believe in the supernatural or not, these artifacts give the pub a character that modern chains can't replicate. It’s cluttered. It’s weird. It’s authentically strange.
Navigating the "Oldest Pub" Debate
We have to talk about the 1189 claim.
Historians like Dr. James Wright, a specialist in buildings archaeology, have often looked at the claims of Britain's oldest pubs with a skeptical eye. There is no documentary evidence that Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem was a public house in 1189. The first recorded mention of it as an inn under this name doesn't appear until much later.
In fact, for a long time, it was known as the "Pilgrim." The "Trip to Jerusalem" branding seems to have gained more traction in the 18th and 19th centuries when romanticized history became a big selling point for inns.
Compare this to the Old Ferryboat Inn in Holywell or The Bingley Arms in Bardsey. Both have claims that stretch back to the 900s.
So, why does the Trip get all the glory?
Location, location, location. Being nestled into the foot of a royal castle gives it a visual gravity that a roadside inn in a small village just can't match. It looks the part. It feels the part. Even if the 1189 date refers more to the castle's brewhouse history than a licensed pub, the continuity of the site is hard to argue with.
The Experience: What to Expect When You Visit
If you're planning a visit to Nottingham, you’re going to the Trip. It’s basically mandatory.
It gets crowded. Very crowded. On a Saturday afternoon, you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with tourists from Japan, stag parties from Newcastle, and local students who just like the cheap-ish chips.
- The Beer: They serve Greene King, which owns the pub. It’s standard. However, they usually have a few guest ales and their own "Olde Trip" house bitter. It’s a solid, malty pint that fits the surroundings.
- The Food: Don't expect Michelin stars. It’s pub grub. Think pies, fish and chips, and burgers. It’s hearty and designed to soak up the ale.
- The Layout: It’s a labyrinth. There are multiple levels, hidden nooks, and steep stairs. If you have mobility issues, the ground floor is manageable, but the upper rooms and the deeper cave areas are a challenge.
- The Ring the Bull Game: This is a classic. There’s a metal ring hanging from the ceiling on a string. You have to swing it and catch it on a bull’s horn mounted on the wall. It looks easy. It is not. You will fail. You will try again. You will eventually get frustrated and buy another drink.
One thing people get wrong is thinking they can just "pop in" and get a table in the caves. If you want a specific spot, especially for food, you really need to book ahead. The cave seating is the most popular, for obvious reasons.
Beyond the Myth: Why It Actually Matters
Strip away the marketing and the disputed dates, and you’re left with one of the most unique buildings in the UK.
The geological significance alone is worth the trip. The Bunter sandstone is soft enough that people have been carving into it for millennia. Nottingham is a city built on top of over 800 caves, and Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem is the most accessible way to see that subterranean history.
It represents a time when the castle was the center of the world. It’s a reminder of the brewing traditions that sustained medieval populations when water wasn't safe to drink.
It’s also a survivor. It survived the English Civil War, which saw the original Nottingham Castle demolished. It survived the industrial revolution and the Blitz.
When you stand in the main bar, look at the walls. You aren't looking at wallpaper; you're looking at the raw, jagged face of the rock. You're looking at the chisel marks of men who lived hundreds of years ago.
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That’s the real value of Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem. It’s not about whether it’s exactly 837 years old or only 400. It’s about the fact that it’s still here, still serving beer, and still acting as the social heartbeat of a city that has changed completely around it.
How to Make the Most of Your Visit
If you want the "real" experience without the sea of selfie sticks, go on a Tuesday morning.
Right when they open.
The pub has a different energy when it's quiet. You can hear the hum of the city outside, muffled by the thick stone walls. You can actually see the details in the wood and the oddities tucked away in the corners.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit:
- Look Up: Almost everything interesting in this pub is on the ceiling or high on the walls. From the Cursed Galleon to the old weaponry.
- Explore the Chimney: There is a massive chimney that goes all the way up through the rock. It’s an incredible piece of engineering for its time.
- Combine with the Castle: The pub is literally at the castle gate. Visit the Nottingham Castle museum first to understand the context of the area, then head down to the Trip for a debrief.
- Check the Weather: If it’s a nice day, the outdoor seating area is great, but you lose the "cave" vibe. Try to get a seat inside even if the sun is out.
- Walk the Trail: After your pint, take the "Castle Rock" walk around the base. You'll see several other cave entrances and get a sense of how the pub fits into the larger geological structure.
Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem is a rare bird. It's a tourist trap that actually deserves the hype. It’s a place where history feels heavy—not like a museum, but like a messy, living thing. Whether the knights of the Crusades actually sharpened their swords on these walls doesn't really matter once you’re sitting there with a cold glass in your hand, listening to the echoes of a thousand years of conversation.
Go for the history. Stay for the beer. Just don't touch the boat.