Xbox One Controller Tear Down: How to Take Apart Your Gamepad Without Ruining It

You've probably felt that creeping frustration when your character starts drifting to the left for no reason, or maybe the A button feels like it's stuck in a jar of honey. It's annoying. You want to fix it. But honestly, looking at that sleek plastic shell, it’s not immediately obvious how you’re supposed to get inside without snapping a hidden tab or gouging the casing. If you're trying to figure out how to take apart Xbox one controller units, you've likely realized Microsoft didn't exactly make it "user-friendly" for the average person with a standard toolbox.

Standard screwdrivers won't work here. You’re going to need a specific set of tools because Microsoft uses security screws to keep curious hands out. It's a classic move.

The Tools You Actually Need (Don't Skip This)

If you try to force these screws with a small flathead, you will strip them. Trust me. I've seen dozens of controllers ruined because someone thought they could "wing it" with a steak knife or a precision driver that almost fit. You specifically need a T8H Torx Security screwdriver. The "H" stands for "Hole," because these screws have a tiny little post in the center of the star shape. Without that hollow tip on your driver, you aren't going anywhere.

You'll also want a T6 Torx for the internal boards and a plastic pry tool—often called a spudger. If you don't have a spudger, a guitar pick or an old credit card works in a pinch. Avoid using metal screwdrivers to pry the plastic; you'll leave nasty scars on the controller's edges that you'll feel every time you play. It's also smart to have some 70% or higher Isopropyl alcohol and some Q-tips nearby if your goal is cleaning.

Breaking the Seal: The Side Rails

The first real hurdle in learning how to take apart Xbox one controller shells is the side grips. These are the plastic panels where your palms rest. They aren't held in by screws. They are held in by some of the most stubborn plastic clips you’ve ever encountered.

Start by gripping the controller firmly. Wedge your pry tool into the seam between the front plate and the side rail, usually starting near the triggers. You have to apply more force than feels comfortable. You’ll hear a loud pop. Don't panic—that’s usually just the clips releasing, not the plastic snapping. Work your way down the seam until the panel wiggles free. Repeat this on the other side. Once those rails are off, the "guts" of the controller start to reveal themselves, and you'll see the first four screws.

The Hidden Fifth Screw

This is where most people get stuck and start pulling on the plastic until it cracks. There are five screws on the back. You see the four in the corners of the handles? Great. But the fifth one is invisible. It’s buried right in the middle of the battery compartment, hidden behind the sticker.

You have two choices here. You can peel the sticker back, which usually ruins it and leaves a sticky mess, or you can just poke your screwdriver straight through the center of the sticker. If you feel around with your thumb, you’ll find a small circular indentation right in the middle of the serial number area. That’s your target. Punch through it, find the screw head, and back it out. Once that fifth screw is gone, the entire front faceplate will literally just fall off.

Navigating the Sandwich: Internal Components

Now that the shell is open, you’re looking at the rumble motors and the circuit boards. One thing to be incredibly careful about: the rumble motors. These are the heavy metal weights in the handles. They aren't always screwed down; they often just sit in little cradles. More importantly, they are connected to the motherboard by incredibly thin, fragile wires. If you let a motor fall out of its housing while the board is still attached, the weight of the motor can easily snap those wires.

If you're trying to get deeper to fix a bumper or replace a joystick, you'll need that T6 screwdriver now. There are several smaller screws holding the upper logic board to the chassis.

• The Bumpers: These are often a single piece of plastic that spans the top of the controller. If one side is broken, you usually have to replace the whole assembly.
• The Joysticks: The plastic "sticks" just pull right off the metal sensor modules. If you have "stick drift," replacing the plastic cap won't help; the issue is inside the green or orange sensor boxes soldered to the board.
• The Buttons: Once the boards are out, the rubber conductive pads and the buttons themselves can be lifted out. This is the perfect time to clean them if they’ve been sticking.

Dealing with the Wi-Fi Antenna

If you have a later model Xbox One controller (the ones with Bluetooth, like the Model 1708), there’s a thin black wire acting as the antenna. It's usually tucked along the side of the internal frame. Be mindful of this when lifting the boards. If you snag it, your controller might start having "disconnect" issues even when you're sitting right in front of the console.

Reassembly and Common Pitfalls

Putting it back together is mostly the reverse of the teardown, but there are two things that always trip people up. First, the battery contact springs. When you’re laying the back shell back onto the frame, make sure the metal battery contacts line up with the slots in the plastic. If they get tucked under the plastic, you won't be able to get your batteries in.

Second, the triggers. The magnets in the triggers like to grab onto screws or bits of metal while you're working. Make sure the triggers move freely before you tighten all five screws back down.

Making Sense of Different Models

It’s worth noting that not every Xbox One controller is identical inside. The original 1537 model (the one without a 3.5mm headphone jack) is built slightly differently than the 1697 or the 1708.

The most common version people are fixing today is the 1708. If you're looking at your controller and it doesn't have a headphone jack, you're dealing with a first-gen unit. These are actually a bit tougher to work on because the bumpers are separate pieces and the assembly is a bit more finicky. Regardless of the model, the "five screw" rule remains the universal constant.

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Cleaning vs. Replacing

Sometimes, you don't actually need to replace parts. If your buttons are sticky, a 90% Isopropyl alcohol soak for the plastic buttons and a quick wipe of the rubber pads will make it feel brand new. However, if the "click" is gone from a bumper, that's a physical failure of the tiny tactile switch on the board. Cleaning won't fix that; you'd need a soldering iron and a replacement switch to truly mend it.

Learning how to take apart Xbox one controller hardware is a rite of passage for many gamers. It saves money, reduces electronic waste, and frankly, it's pretty satisfying to see the engineering that goes into these things. Just remember: patience is more important than force. If something isn't moving, you probably missed a screw or a clip.

Next Steps for Success:

1. Identify your model number inside the battery compartment to ensure you buy the right replacement parts if needed.
2. Organize your screws in a small tray or on a magnetic mat; the T8 and T6 screws look similar but are not interchangeable.
3. Use a can of compressed air while the controller is open to blow out the years of dust and skin cells that inevitably accumulate around the thumbstick modules.
4. Test the buttons before snapping the side rails back on, as those rails are the hardest part to remove and you don't want to do it twice.