You're mid-boss fight in Elden Ring or maybe just about to cross the finish line in Forza, and it happens. That dreaded notification pops up. "Controller disconnected." It’s basically the universal gamer tax. If you're wondering what batteries does a Xbox One controller take, the short, technical answer is two AA batteries. But honestly, just grabbing a random pack of cheap double-As from the gas station is usually a mistake that ends up costing you way more in the long run.
Microsoft designed these controllers with a specific philosophy. Unlike Sony’s DualShock or DualSense, which have internal lithium-ion blocks you can't easily swap, the Xbox One controller is a bit of a chameleon. It’s built to be versatile. You can go the old-school disposable route, use high-end rechargeables, or even plug in a dedicated battery pack. Each choice changes how the controller feels in your hands—literally, the weight shifts—and how often you’ll be scrambling for a charging cable.
The Standard Solution: AA Disposables
Most people just stick with what came in the box. Alkaline AA batteries are the "default" setting for any Xbox One or Series X|S controller. They’re easy. You find them everywhere from big-box retailers to the back of your TV remote.
But here’s the thing about alkalines: they vary wildly in quality. If you’re using those heavy-duty zinc-carbon batteries (the super cheap ones often found at dollar stores), you’re going to get maybe 5 to 10 hours of gameplay. That’s nothing. If you have the vibration (haptic feedback) turned up to 100%, those cheap cells will drain before you even finish a decent sessions of Call of Duty. High-quality alkalines like Duracell Coppertop or Energizer Max are the baseline. They usually give you about 30 to 40 hours of juice.
It's actually kind of wild how much the rumble motors eat through power. If you play games with constant feedback—think racing sims where the triggers vibrate every time you hit a curb—you’re basically burning money if you use disposables. Plus, there’s the environmental guilt. Tossing a handful of dead batteries in the trash every month feels... wrong.
Why NiMH Rechargeables Are the Real Pro Move
If you talk to anyone who spends more than five hours a week gaming, they’ll probably tell you to buy Eneloops. Panasonic’s Eneloop NiMH (Nickel-Metal Hydride) batteries are the gold standard for a reason. They have a very low self-discharge rate, meaning if you don't play for a week, they won't be dead when you pick the controller back up.
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The "Pro" version of these batteries usually carries a capacity of around 2500mAh. In real-world terms? That’s roughly 40+ hours of gameplay per charge.
The IKEA Hack
Here is a secret most hardcore gamers swear by: IKEA Ladda batteries. Seriously. Multiple teardowns and community tests over the years have suggested that the IKEA Ladda 2450mAh rechargeable batteries are manufactured in the same FDK factory in Japan as the high-end Eneloops. They’re a fraction of the price. If you have an IKEA nearby, grab two four-packs and a basic charger. You’ll never think about what batteries does a Xbox One controller take ever again because you'll just swap them out every few days and always have a fresh pair waiting in the cradle.
Lithium-Ion Battery Packs: The Plug-and-Play Route
Some people hate the "fiddly" nature of AA batteries. They want their Xbox controller to act like a phone—just plug it in when it's low. For that, you need a dedicated Play & Charge Kit.
Microsoft sells an official version, but third-party companies like PowerA and Razer have their own takes. These are usually lithium-ion or lithium-polymer packs that fit perfectly into the battery compartment. They come with a custom door that often has contact points for a charging dock.
There's a trade-off here. While convenient, these packs often have a lower total capacity than a pair of high-end NiMH AA batteries. A standard Play & Charge kit might give you 20 to 30 hours. Also, lithium batteries have a finite lifespan. After a year or two of heavy use, you’ll notice that "full charge" doesn't last nearly as long as it used to. When an internal pack dies, you have to replace the whole unit. When an AA rechargeable dies, you just swap that one cell.
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Voltage and the "Low Battery" Warning Myth
Have you ever noticed your controller saying the battery is low, but then it stays on for another three hours? That’s usually a voltage issue.
- Alkaline batteries start at 1.5V and steadily drop as they die.
- Rechargeable NiMH batteries usually sit at 1.2V for almost their entire life cycle.
Because the Xbox controller is calibrated to look for that 1.5V drop-off, it often gets confused by rechargeables. It sees 1.2V and thinks, "Oh no, we’re almost out of power!" even though the battery is actually full and has hours of life left. Don't panic when the pop-up appears if you're using rechargeables; you've usually got plenty of time left.
Using a Wired Connection (No Batteries Required)
Technically, the best "battery" for an Xbox One controller is a micro-USB cable (or USB-C if you're using the newer Series controllers).
If you remove the batteries entirely and plug the controller into the console, it runs purely on bus power. This is the preferred method for competitive players because it reduces input latency—even if only by a few milliseconds. It also makes the controller significantly lighter. Some people hate the "floaty" feel of a light controller, while others find it helps with wrist fatigue during long sessions.
Real-World Comparison of Battery Life
| Battery Type | Estimated Playtime | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cheap Zinc-Carbon | 5–10 Hours | Extremely cheap | Leaks easily, terrible value |
| Premium Alkaline | 30–40 Hours | Reliable, high voltage | Expensive over time, waste |
| Eneloop/Ladda (NiMH) | 35–45 Hours | Best value, eco-friendly | Requires separate charger |
| Official Play & Charge | 25–30 Hours | Convenient, charge while playing | Degrades over time |
What About the "Lithium AA" Disposables?
You’ve probably seen those expensive blue Energizer Ultimate Lithium packs. They are incredible. They are lighter than alkalines and can last up to 50 or 60 hours in a controller. However, they are pricey. They’re mostly intended for outdoor cameras or high-drain devices in extreme temperatures. Using them for gaming is a bit like using jet fuel in a minivan. It works, but why would you? Save those for your trail cameras or emergency flashlights.
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Common Mistakes to Avoid
Don't mix and match. It sounds like common sense, but we've all been there—one dead battery and one half-full one found in the kitchen drawer. Mixing brands, or mixing a fresh battery with a used one, can lead to leakage. The stronger battery tries to "charge" the weaker one, which can cause the alkaline chemicals to burst through the seal. If that happens inside your $60 controller, the acidic corrosion can eat the springs and contact points, effectively bricking your gamepad.
Also, keep an eye on the battery doors. If you use third-party battery packs, they often come with their own specific battery covers. Don't lose your original one! If that third-party pack ever fails, you'll need the original door to go back to using standard AAs.
Moving Forward: The Best Setup for You
Determining what batteries does a xbox one controller take is only half the battle; the other half is deciding how much you value your time versus your money.
If you are a casual gamer who plays once a week, a big pack of Duracells from a warehouse club is fine. It’s simple. No charging required.
If you play daily, you are throwing money away if you don't switch to rechargeables. The most cost-effective, high-performance setup is a four-pack of IKEA Ladda (2450mAh) batteries and a basic wall charger. You keep two in the controller and two on the charger. When the controller dies, you swap them in thirty seconds. You're never tethered to a cable, and you aren't contributing to a landfill.
For those who prioritize aesthetics and hate seeing loose batteries, a charging dock with integrated packs is the way to go. Just remember that you'll likely be replacing those packs every 18 to 24 months as the lithium cells lose their ability to hold a meaningful charge.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your current controller model. If it has a USB-C port (the small, rounded one), it's a Series controller, but it still takes the same AA batteries as the older Xbox One versions.
- Inspect your battery terminals for any white, crusty powder. That’s battery acid. If you see it, clean it carefully with a Q-tip and a tiny bit of white vinegar to neutralize the base.
- Invest in a dedicated charger. Avoid the "ultra-fast" 15-minute chargers, as they generate too much heat and shorten the overall lifespan of your rechargeable batteries. A slow "overnight" charger is actually better for the health of the cells.
- If you use a headset plugged into the controller's 3.5mm jack, expect your battery life to drop by about 20%. The controller has to power the audio driver, which is a significant drain.
The Xbox One controller remains one of the most ergonomic designs in history. By picking the right power source, you ensure that the only thing stopping your killstreak is your own skill, not a dead battery.