You’ve seen them. On the subway in Brooklyn, in that one coffee shop where the espresso costs eight dollars, and definitely on your Instagram feed. The women's New Balance 990v6 is everywhere. But here's the thing: it isn't just another "dad shoe" update.
Honestly, it’s a weird sneaker.
It’s the first time New Balance took their elite marathon-grade foam—FuelCell—and stuffed it into a lifestyle shoe that people mostly wear to buy groceries or walk the dog.
Usually, the 990 series changes at a glacial pace. A little tweak here, a new plastic tab there. Not this time. The v6 is a total departure. It’s taller, chunkier, and way more "techy" than the v5 ever was.
Why the 990v6 feels so different under your feet
If you’re coming from the v5, the first thing you’ll notice is the "squish." The older models used ENCAP, which is basically a firm ring of polyurethane around a soft core. It felt stable. Solid. Like a German sedan.
The women's New Balance 990v6 feels more like a trampoline.
That’s the FuelCell foam talking. It’s nitrogen-injected, meaning it has these tiny bubbles that compress and snap back. When you step down, you don't just land; you sort of... launch.
- Stack Height: It’s noticeably taller.
- The Weight: Despite looking like a tank, it’s actually lighter (about 10.5 oz for women) because of that airy foam.
- No Midfoot Saddle: They removed the structural piece in the middle. Now the pigskin suede flows from front to back, which makes the shoe flex way more naturally.
But there is a catch. Some long-time fans hate it.
I’ve talked to people who feel the v6 is too soft. If you have extremely flat feet or need rigid support for overpronation, that bouncy FuelCell might feel a bit "tippy" compared to the older, flatter versions. It’s a performance runner’s soul trapped in a fashion icon’s body.
The sizing nightmare: Do you actually need to size down?
Okay, let’s get into the weeds. Sizing for the women's New Balance 990v6 is a mess of conflicting internet advice.
Half the people say "go true to size," and the other half swear you need to go down a half size.
Here is the truth: the v6 is long. It’s built on a new "Last" (that's the foot mold) that is narrower and longer than previous versions. If you have narrow or standard-width feet, you will likely have about an inch of dead space at the toes if you buy your normal size. That leads to heel slip.
Go down a half size if:
You want a snug, locked-in fit or have narrow feet.
Stay true to size if:
You have wide feet or use custom orthotics. The v6 is one of the few high-end sneakers that still offers multiple widths (B, D, 2E). If you’re a nurse or on your feet for 12 hours, that extra wiggle room in your "true" size is actually a godsend when your feet start to swell around hour nine.
Is it still "Made in USA"?
Yes. Sort of.
New Balance is very specific about this. To get that "Made in USA" tag on the tongue, the shoe has to have a "domestic value" of at least 70%. The pigskin suede is premium. The craftsmanship is miles ahead of your standard $100 mall sneaker.
You can tell the difference the second you touch the suede. It isn't that thin, scratchy stuff. It’s thick and shaggy.
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Teddy Santis, the founder of Aimé Leon Dore, is the creative director for this line. He’s the reason we’re seeing colors like "Mindful Grey," "Incense," and "Plum" instead of just the classic slate grey. He turned a podiatrist’s favorite shoe into a high-fashion staple.
What most people get wrong about running in them
New Balance marketed the v6 with the "Runners Aren't Normal" campaign. They want you to think it's a serious running shoe.
Technically, it is. You can run 10 miles in these. The FuelCell foam is the same stuff in their $200 race day shoes.
But would you?
Probably not. Suede is heavy. Suede gets ruined in the rain. Suede doesn’t breathe like a thin mesh racing flat. If you run in these, you’re basically taking a luxury SUV off-roading. It can do it, but it’s a lot of expensive material to be sweating through.
Most women are using these as the ultimate "recovery" shoe. It’s what you put on after a hard workout, or when you know you’re going to be walking 20,000 steps at Disney World or across London.
The Durability Reality Check
For $200, you expect these to last forever.
They won't.
Because the foam is softer, it "bottoms out" faster than the old-school firm midsoles. You’ll start to see those little compression wrinkles in the foam after a few months of heavy wear. That’s normal. The outsole rubber is incredibly tough, though. It’s Ndurance rubber, which is designed to handle asphalt without grinding down to nothing.
How to actually style the women's New Balance 990v6
Because it’s so chunky, the v6 can look like a "moon boot" if you aren't careful.
- The Proportion Rule: Don't wear them with super-skinny leggings unless you want your feet to look like boats.
- Wide-Leg Harmony: They look best with wide-leg trousers or "dad" jeans that hit right at the top of the shoe.
- The Sock Game: Crew socks are mandatory. No-show socks with a shoe this bulky look unfinished.
Real-world Actionable Steps
If you're ready to drop the cash on a pair, do this first:
- Measure your foot on a Brannock device. Don't guess. If you measure as a 7.5, try the 7.0 first.
- Check the tongue. Look for the "Made in USA" branding. Some cheaper "990-inspired" models exist, but they don't have the FuelCell tech.
- Waterproof them immediately. Use a suede protector spray before you step outside. One drop of coffee on that "Castle Rock" grey suede will ruin your week.
- Rotate them. Don't wear them every single day. Letting the foam decompress for 24 hours between wears will add months to the shoe's lifespan.
The 990v6 isn't a perfect shoe—it's too long for some and too squishy for others—but it's the most ambitious version of the 990 yet. It bridged the gap between "orthopedic comfort" and "marathon speed," and it looks damn good doing it.