Walk into any high-end liquor store and you’ll see it. The bottle looks like something out of a 19th-century apothecary, all tall and elegant with that signature crest. Willett Small Batch Bourbon—specifically the Pot Still Reserve—is a polarizing beast. Some people swear it’s the nectar of the gods. Others think it’s a triumph of marketing over liquid. Honestly? The truth is buried under layers of family history, contract distilling, and one of the most confusing labeling systems in the entire whiskey world.
You’ve probably heard of the Willett Distillery, also known as Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (KBD). They are located in Bardstown, Kentucky. It's a beautiful spot. But here is the thing: for a long time, they didn't actually make the whiskey they sold. They were what the industry calls "non-distiller producers." They bought barrels from other people—think Heaven Hill or Jim Beam—and blended them. That isn't a bad thing. It's an art. But it creates a lot of mystery around what is actually inside that pot-still-shaped glass.
The Pot Still Reserve Mystery
Let's get real about the shape. The bottle is modeled after the original copper pot still used by the family. It's beautiful. It's also a nightmare to fit on a standard bar shelf. Because of the design, many enthusiasts assume the whiskey inside was made in a pot still.
Actually, for the longest time, it wasn't.
Most bourbon is made in column stills because it's efficient. Pot stills are usually for Scotch or Irish whiskey. While Willett did eventually return to distilling their own spirit in 2012, many of the bottles you see on shelves are still blends that may or may not include their own wheated or high-rye mash bills. It’s a moving target. That’s why one bottle might taste like vanilla and baking spices, while the next one feels a bit more "green" or herbal.
The "Small Batch" label is another point of contention. In the whiskey world, "small batch" has no legal definition. It could mean two barrels. It could mean two hundred. For Willett, it’s usually a marriage of about 8 to 12 barrels. That is actually quite small compared to the giants like Jack Daniel's, where a batch might involve hundreds of barrels to ensure total consistency. With Willett Small Batch Bourbon, you get variance. You get character. You also get the occasional "off" bottle that doesn't quite hit the mark of the previous one.
Tasting Notes: What You're Actually Drinking
If you pour a glass of the current Pot Still Reserve, you’re usually looking at a 94-proof spirit. It’s not a hazmat-strength bourbon that’s going to melt your palate.
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On the nose, it's classic. You get floral notes—jasmine, maybe some dried citrus. It’s lighter than a Buffalo Trace or an Old Forester. Then comes the honey.
The palate is where it gets interesting. It’s surprisingly "chewy." You'll find:
- Caramel popcorn (the fancy kind, not the microwave stuff).
- A hit of black pepper that sneaks up on the mid-palate.
- Lemon zest.
- A distinct herbal quality that some people describe as "grassy."
Is it the best bourbon in the world? Maybe not. But it’s distinct. It doesn't taste like a mass-produced bourbon designed by a committee to offend the fewest people possible. It has an opinion.
The Rise of the Purple Top
We can't talk about Willett without talking about the "Purple Tops." These are the Willett Family Estate Single Barrel Bourbons. If you see one of these in the wild, prepare to pay. Or run.
These are not the same as the standard Willett Small Batch Bourbon you find for $50. These are single-barrel expressions, often aged for 6, 10, or even 20 years. They are cask strength. They are legendary. And they are the reason why the brand has so much "hype" behind it.
Collectors hunt these like buried treasure. Because Willett has such a deep library of sourced barrels from the 80s and 90s, some of those Purple Tops contain "honey barrels" from closed distilleries like Stitzel-Weller. That’s the stuff Pappy Van Winkle dreams are made of. But don't let the aura of the $3,000 collector bottles trick you into thinking the entry-level small batch is the same thing. It’s a different beast entirely.
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Why the Mash Bill Matters
Most people just drink. They don't think about the recipe. But if you want to understand why Willett tastes the way it does, you have to look at the grain.
Willett uses several different mash bills. Some are high-rye, which gives that spicy, peppery kick. Others are wheated, which results in a softer, sweeter profile. Since the Small Batch is a blend, you're often getting a mix of these profiles. It’s like a chef using three different kinds of salt to season a steak.
The complexity is the point.
However, some purists find this frustrating. They want to know exactly what they are drinking. With a brand like Bottled-in-Bond Henry McKenna, you know the age, the distillery, and the season it was made. With Willett, you’re trusting the palate of the master blender, Drew Kulsveen. Drew is widely considered one of the best "noses" in the business. If he says the batch is ready, it’s ready.
The Bardstown Influence
The water in Kentucky is filtered through limestone. It removes iron and adds calcium. This is bourbon lore, sure, but it's also chemistry. Willett's site in Bardstown sits on a high point, and their warehouses (rickhouses) are legendary for how they catch the wind.
Temperature swings in these warehouses are violent. Kentucky summers are brutal; winters are freezing. This forces the bourbon in and out of the wood. The wood gives the bourbon its color and about 60% of its flavor. Because Willett's rickhouses are made of wood and tin rather than concrete, they breathe differently. This contributes to that "Willett funk"—a specific, slightly nutty, slightly earthy note that fans can spot a mile away.
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The Verdict: Is It Worth The Hype?
Here is the honest truth. You are paying a "pretty bottle tax."
The glass itself is expensive to produce. The branding is top-tier. If you took the same liquid and put it in a standard plastic-capped jug, it would probably sell for $10 less.
But bourbon isn't just about the liquid. It's about the ritual. It's about pulling a stunning bottle off the shelf when friends come over. It's about the history of a family that lost their distillery during the dark ages of the 1970s (when everyone wanted vodka) and clawed their way back to prominence.
Willett Small Batch Bourbon is a great "bridge" whiskey. It's sophisticated enough for a neat pour but has enough backbone to stand up in an Old Fashioned. Just don't expect it to taste like a caramel bomb. It’s more nuanced than that. It’s a bit more "citrus and spice" than "sugar and oak."
Actionable Steps for the Bourbon Enthusiast
If you’re looking to dive into the world of Willett, don't just grab the first bottle you see. Do this instead:
- Check the Proof: Most Pot Still Reserve is 94 proof. If you find a rare "Estate" bottling, the proof will be much higher. Know what your palate can handle before you drop the cash.
- Look for the Rye: If you find the Willett Family Estate Small Batch Rye (the one with the green foil), buy it. Many enthusiasts actually prefer the Willett Rye over the Small Batch Bourbon. It’s widely considered one of the best four-year ryes on the market.
- Let it Breathe: Willett products tend to be "tight" when first opened. Pour a glass and let it sit for 15 minutes. The oxidation rounds off the ethanol heat and lets the floral notes come forward.
- Glassware Matters: Because of the delicate floral notes in this specific bourbon, use a Glencairn glass. A standard rocks glass lets too much of the aroma escape.
- Track the Batches: If you find a bottle you love, take a photo of the back label or the batch number. Because Willett blends in small quantities, the profile will change slightly between batches. When you find "your" batch, go back and buy a second bottle before the store restocks with a new one.
Bourbon is a journey, not a destination. Willett is just one very pretty, slightly confusing stop along the way. Enjoy the scenery.