Why Your Washing Machine Clean Cycle Actually Matters (and Why It Fails)

You probably ignore that button. You know the one—the "Clean Washer" or "Tub Clean" cycle that sits there, tucked away between the Delicates and the Heavy Duty options. Maybe you've used it once or twice when the laundry started smelling a bit like a damp basement, but honestly, most of us just assume the soap we use for our clothes cleans the machine too.

It doesn't.

Actually, modern high-efficiency (HE) machines are basically breeding grounds for things you don't want near your socks. Because we use cold water and gentle detergents now, we aren’t killing off the "scrud"—that’s a real industry term for the waxy buildup of fabric softener and skin cells. If you aren't running your washing machine clean cycle properly, you're basically just swirling your clothes in a soup of old bacteria and detergent residue.

The Science of Why Machines Get Gross

Old-school top loaders were simple. They filled up with gallons of water, used harsh detergents, and generally flushed everything out. But your new machine? It’s a precision instrument. It uses very little water. While that’s great for the planet, it’s terrible for hygiene.

When you wash at low temperatures, fats from your body and oils from your clothes don't fully dissolve. They stick to the outer drum—the part you can't see. Over time, this forms a biofilm. Microbiologists like Dr. Charles Gerba have famously pointed out that fecal matter and bacteria like E. coli can linger in machines long after the cycle ends. If you’re not hit with a high-heat washing machine clean cycle, that stuff just stays there.

It's kinda gross when you think about it. You're trying to get clean, but the vessel is dirty.

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What Actually Happens During the Clean Cycle?

Most people think the clean cycle is just a regular wash without clothes. Not really. When you hit that button, the machine is programmed to do a few specific things it doesn't do during a normal load of towels.

First, it uses way more water. It’s designed to reach parts of the outer tub that usually stay dry. Second, it cranks the heat. We're talking temperatures often exceeding 140°F if the machine has an internal heater. This is the "kill zone" for mold spores and bacteria. Finally, the agitation is different. It’s a more violent, high-speed sloshing meant to mechanically break off that "scrud" I mentioned earlier.

Bleach vs. Vinegar vs. Tablets

There is a massive debate online about what you should put in there. Honestly, manufacturers like Whirlpool and LG are pretty vocal about this: they want you to use a dedicated cleaner like Affresh or OxiClean. Why? Because those tablets are "timed release." They don't just wash away in the first two minutes; they sit there and bubble against the grime for the whole hour.

But what if you want to go old school?

• Bleach: It’s the king of killing mold. If your gasket (that rubber ring on front loaders) has black spots, bleach is your best friend. Just don't mix it with anything else. Ever.
• Vinegar: People love it because it’s "natural." It’s okay for breaking down hard water scale, but it’s a weak disinfectant compared to bleach or specialized cleaners. Plus, some repair techs, like the popular "Ben’s Appliances" on YouTube, warn that constant vinegar use can actually eat away at rubber seals over several years.
• The Hot Water Only Method: Better than nothing, but it won't touch the oily buildup.

The Gasket Problem Nobody Mentions

If you have a front loader, the washing machine clean cycle is only half the battle. You’ve seen that grey sludge in the rubber folds, right? That’s where the moisture trapped by the door seal turns into a science project.

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The clean cycle helps, but it can’t always reach deep into those folds with enough force to remove physical buildup. You’ve got to get in there with a rag. It sucks. It’s slimy. But if you don't do it, the clean cycle is just a band-aid.

Frequency: How Often Is Enough?

Most manuals say "once a month" or "every 30 cycles." That feels like a lot. If you're a single person doing two loads a week, you can probably go three months. But if you have kids, pets, or you’re a heavy user of fabric softener—which is basically liquid fat—you really do need to stick to that monthly schedule.

Think of it like changing the oil in your car. You can skip it, sure. But eventually, the performance drops. Your clothes start to have that "sour" smell even when they’re fresh out of the dryer. That’s the machine screaming for help.

Mistakes That Make Your Machine Smell Faster

1. Using too much detergent. HE soap is concentrated. If you see suds during a normal wash, you used too much. That extra soap stays in the machine and feeds the mold.
2. Closing the door. This is the big one. When the wash is done, leave the door ajar. Let the drum dry out. Mold needs moisture; don't give it any.
3. Ignoring the filter. Did you know your front loader has a drain filter? It’s usually behind a little flap at the bottom. It catches coins, hair, and... wet lint. If that sits there, no amount of washing machine clean cycle runs will fix the smell. It’s basically a rotting compost pile at the bottom of your appliance.

Step-by-Step for a Truly Clean Machine

Don't just press the button and walk away. If you want it done right, follow this sequence.

Clear out the drum. Check for that one stray sock stuck to the top. Then, open the detergent drawer. Most of them have a release lever. Take the whole drawer out to the sink and scrub it. You'll be shocked at the slime hiding behind the drawer housing.

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Next, wipe the rubber gasket. Use a 50/50 mix of water and bleach if there's visible mold.

Now, add your cleaner. Put the tablet or the powder directly into the drum, not the dispenser. Set the washing machine clean cycle. If your machine doesn't have a dedicated button, use the hottest setting available—usually "Sanitize" or "Whites"—and select an extra rinse.

Once it’s done, don't close the door. Wipe down the inside of the glass and the seal one last time to get any loosened grit out.

The Cost of Neglect

Repairing a washing machine isn't cheap. If the buildup gets bad enough, it can actually affect the spider arm—the part that holds the drum in place. In many machines, this part is made of aluminum, which can corrode when trapped against wet, acidic buildup. When that breaks, the machine is usually a "total loss" because the repair costs more than a new unit.

Spending $2 on a cleaning tablet once a month is a lot better than spending $800 on a new LG or Samsung.

Actionable Next Steps

Check your machine right now. Pull back the rubber seal on the door or look at the bottom of the agitator if you have a top loader. If you see any greyish slime or black spots, it’s time.

1. Locate your drain filter. Drain it into a shallow tray (expect about a cup of gross water) and clean the debris.
2. Purchase a dedicated cleaner. Skip the "DIY hacks" for the first deep clean; you need the surfactants found in commercial tablets to break down years of oily residue.
3. Run the cycle on the hottest setting. If your machine is older and lacks a "Clean" button, use the "Heavy" cycle with an extra rinse and the "Extra Hot" water setting.
4. Change your habits. Start leaving the door open after every wash and cut your detergent usage by half. Most people use way too much.

Your laundry—and your nose—will thank you. Keeping that drum sparkling isn't just about aesthetics; it's about making sure your "clean" clothes aren't actually carrying a microbial load from the last six months of washes.