You just spent two grand on a Weber Summit or maybe a shiny Traeger Timberline. It’s beautiful. You want to protect it from the rain, the bird droppings, and that weird yellow pollen that coats everything in April. So, you go to the hardware store and grab the cheapest cover for barbecue grill you can find. It’s black, it’s plastic-y, and it fits "most" 60-inch grills.
Big mistake. Huge.
Most people think a grill cover is basically just a raincoat for their patio gear. Honestly, that’s only half the story. If you buy the wrong one, you aren't protecting your grill; you're actually building a high-humidity sauna that accelerates rust faster than if you’d just left the thing out in the driveway. It’s a classic case of good intentions meeting bad science.
The Moisture Trap: What Most People Get Wrong
The biggest issue with a low-quality cover for barbecue grill isn't that it lets water in. It’s that it won’t let water out. Condensation is the silent killer here. When the sun hits a dark grill cover after a rainstorm, the moisture trapped underneath evaporates, hits the underside of the waterproof fabric, and drips right back onto your grates.
It’s gross.
I’ve seen stainless steel grills—expensive ones—pitted with "tea staining" rust within a single season because the owner used a non-breathable vinyl cover. You need airflow. If your cover doesn't have mesh vents or isn't made of a vapor-permeable fabric like high-denier polyester, you’re basically pickling your investment in brackish air.
Think about the material for a second. Cheap PVC (polyvinyl chloride) gets brittle. It’s okay for a season, maybe. But then winter hits. The plastic freezes, someone bumps into it, and crack—you’ve got a giant split right down the middle. Now, the rain gets in, but the "waterproof" nature of the rest of the cover ensures that moisture stays locked in against the metal.
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Fabric Wars: 600D, Solution-Dyed, and the Marketing Fluff
When you’re shopping for a cover for barbecue grill, you’re going to see a lot of numbers like 300D, 600D, or even 900D. The "D" stands for Denier. It’s a measure of the thickness of the individual threads.
- 300D: This is thin. It feels like a cheap tent. Don't bother if you live anywhere with actual weather.
- 600D: This is the sweet spot. It's heavy enough to stay put during a breeze but light enough that you won't throw your back out trying to drape it over a four-burner Genesis.
- Solution-Dyed Polyester: This is the gold standard.
Most cheap covers are "piece-dyed," meaning the fabric is woven and then dipped in color. The sun eats that for breakfast. Within three months, your black cover is a sad, mottled grey. Solution-dyed fabrics, like those produced by brands such as Sunbrella or Duck Covers, have the pigment added to the polymer melt before the fibers are even created. The color is part of the "DNA" of the thread. It doesn't fade.
There's also the weight issue. A heavy cover is great until you have to take it off. If it's a struggle, you won't use it. You'll leave the grill uncovered "just for tonight," then it rains, and then you're back to square one. Look for covers with sturdy handles. It sounds like a small detail, but when that fabric is wet and heavy, you’ll want a real grip.
The Fit Matters More Than You Think
Don’t buy a "Universal" cover. Just don't.
"Universal" usually means "doesn't fit anything well." If the cover is too big, it bunches up at the bottom. This creates little bowls of standing water on the ground that wick moisture up into the legs and casters of your grill. Ever wonder why the wheels on your grill are always the first thing to rust out? That's why.
You want a cover for barbecue grill that sits about one to two inches above the ground. This allows air to pull up from underneath—the chimney effect—and exit through the vents at the top. This constant airflow keeps the metal dry.
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Also, wind is a factor. A loose cover is basically a sail. If you live in a windy corridor, a "universal" cover will eventually end up in your neighbor's pool. Look for click-close straps that wrap around the wheels or legs. Drawstrings are okay, but they’re a pain to tighten when your hands are cold.
Surprising Culprits: Rodents and Spiders
Here is something nobody talks about: rats love grill covers.
Seriously. A covered grill is a dry, dark, secluded penthouse for a field mouse. They climb up inside, nest in the flavorizer bars, and chew on the igniter wires. If your cover is too long and drags on the ground, you’re basically rolling out a red carpet for them.
Spiders are the other issue. They love the vents. Specifically, certain types of small spiders are attracted to the smell of propane (or the mercaptan added to it). They build webs inside the burner tubes. When you go to light your grill in the spring, you get a "flashback" fire because the gas can't get through the web. A well-fitting cover with fine-mesh vents helps, but you still need to check those tubes.
Real-World Case: The Coastal Struggle
If you live within ten miles of the ocean, the rules change. Salt air is brutal. I spoke with a technician from a high-end outdoor kitchen company in Florida who told me they recommend never using a tight-fitting cover in high-salt environments unless the grill is cleaned and dried after every single use.
Why? Because salt particles settle on the grill. If you cover it, the humidity traps that salt against the metal. The salt absorbs the moisture, and you get an electrochemical reaction that eats through 304 stainless steel like it’s butter. In coastal areas, you actually want more airflow, not less. Some experts even suggest a "hanging" style cover or a simple overhead structure instead of a tight fabric wrap.
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How to Actually Maintain a Cover
You have to wash the cover. I know, it sounds ridiculous. But think about it—the cover is catching all the dirt, bird poop, and tree sap. If that stuff sits there, it degrades the UV coating of the fabric.
- Don't put it in the washing machine. You'll destroy the waterproof backing (usually a laminate or a coating).
- Use a soft brush and mild soap. Hose it down while it’s still on the grill.
- Let it dry completely before folding it. If you take it off to cook and throw it in a heap in the corner of the deck while it's damp, you’ll have a mold colony by the time the burgers are done.
And for the love of everything holy, wait for the grill to cool down. I’ve seen countless "custom-fit" covers with a giant melted hole because the owner was in a rush to clean up after a party. Most polyester melts at around 480°F ($250^\circ C$), but it starts softening way before that. Wait at least an hour.
Is a $100 Cover Really Better Than a $20 One?
Usually, yes. But you're paying for two specific things: the warranty and the fabric tech.
A $20 cover from a big-box store will likely last one season. If you're okay with that, fine. But it's plastic waste going into a landfill every year. A $100 cover for barbecue grill from a brand like Classic Accessories or the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) version from Weber or Napoleon usually comes with a 2-to-10-year warranty.
More importantly, the expensive ones feel like fabric, not a tarp. They drape better. They don't get "memory folds" that trap water. They have legitimate ventilation systems that keep the inside of your grill dry.
Actionable Steps for Your Grill
If you want your grill to actually last a decade, stop treating the cover like an afterthought.
- Measure your grill first. Don't guess. Get the width, depth, and height. Subtract two inches from the height so it doesn't touch the ground.
- Check for vents. If the cover doesn't have visible flaps or mesh sections, don't buy it. Your grill needs to breathe.
- Feel the inside. Look for a soft lining if you have a painted grill. Hard plastic covers can scratch the finish over time as they flap in the wind.
- Clean the grill before covering. Covering a greasy grill just traps food smells that attract the aforementioned rodents. Wipe it down, let it dry, then cover.
- If you live in a snowy climate, go outside and brush the snow off the top. The weight of heavy, wet snow can stretch the fabric and create "bowls" that will leak eventually.
A cover is a tool, not a miracle. Used correctly, it keeps your igniters working and your stainless shining. Used incorrectly, it's just a $40 bag for rust. Take the extra ten minutes to find one that actually fits your specific model and has the breathability to let moisture escape. Your future self, who isn't spending $200 on replacement burners next year, will thank you.