You’ve been there. You grab a sheet of heavy construction paper, fold it into a sleek, aggressive-looking dart, and hurl it with everything you’ve got. It nose-dives. Two feet. Maybe three if there's a lucky breeze. It’s frustrating because, honestly, we’re taught that tougher means better. But in the world of aerodynamics, "tough" usually just means "heavy," and weight is the natural enemy of lift.
If you want to know what is the best paper for a paper airplane, you have to stop thinking about crafts and start thinking about wing loading. It’s a geeky term, sure. Basically, it’s just the relationship between the weight of the plane and the surface area of the wings. If your paper is too thick, the wings can't generate enough lift to overcome gravity. If it's too thin, the whole thing flops around like a wet noodle.
Finding that sweet spot—the "Goldilocks" zone of paper—is what separates a world-record throw from a crumpled mess on the living room floor.
The Science of the Sheet
Let’s talk specs. Most people grab standard 20lb copy paper. It’s accessible. It’s cheap. It works... okay. But if you look at the guys who actually do this for a living—people like John Collins, the "Paper Airplane Guy" who broke the world record in 2012—they aren't just grabbing whatever is in the printer tray.
Collins famously used a specific type of A4 paper for his record-breaking "Suzanne" glider. Why A4? In the United States, we’re obsessed with 8.5 x 11-inch Letter paper. However, the A4 standard (common in Europe and Asia) has a different aspect ratio. It’s taller and narrower. This specific geometry changes the center of gravity and the wing shape when you fold it.
The weight matters even more than the shape. Paper weight is usually measured in grams per square meter (GSM).
Standard office paper is typically around 80 GSM.
It’s the baseline.
But is it the best? Not really.
For long-distance gliders, you actually want something slightly lighter, maybe around 70 GSM. It allows for a larger wing surface relative to the weight. On the flip side, if you're building a "dart" style plane meant for speed and power, you might actually want to go up to 90 or 100 GSM. The extra mass gives it momentum. It’s like throwing a rock versus throwing a feather. The rock has more "punch" to cut through the air resistance, even if it doesn't want to stay up as long.
The Paper You Should Actually Be Using
If you’re serious about flight time, you need to look at Japanese Origami paper, specifically Kami.
Kami is thin. It’s crisp. It holds a crease like nobody's business. When you fold a paper airplane, the sharpness of the fold is what determines the structural integrity of the wing. If the fold is "mushy," the wing will flex mid-flight. Flexing is bad. It creates drag. Drag slows you down.
Honestly, the "best" depends on your goal. Let's break down the contenders:
1. A4 80 GSM Copy Paper (The All-Rounder)
This is the "Old Reliable." If you are using the classic "Nakamura Lock" design or a basic dart, this paper provides enough stiffness to handle a hard throw. It’s ubiquitous. You can find it in any office. It’s the baseline for a reason—it’s balanced. But it’s a jack of all trades, master of none.
2. 20lb Bond Paper (The American Standard)
This is slightly thinner than your average premium copy paper. It’s great for high-aspect-ratio gliders. If you’re making something with wide, long wings, the lighter weight of bond paper keeps it from stalling.
3. 60-70 GSM Technical Drawing Paper
Now we’re getting into the pro stuff. This paper is smooth. It has less surface friction. If you’ve ever touched it, it feels almost waxy. That lack of texture means air flows over the surface more laminar (smoothly), reducing the tiny pockets of turbulence that slow a plane down.
4. Recycled Paper (The Wildcard)
Avoid it. Seriously. Recycled paper often has shorter fibers. It’s prone to tearing, and it doesn't hold a "memory" of a fold very well. If you try to make a precise adjustment to the tail of a recycled paper plane, it will likely just flop back to where it was.
Why Moisture is Ruining Your Flight
Here is something nobody talks about: humidity. Paper is hygroscopic. That’s just a fancy way of saying it sucks up water from the air like a sponge.
If you live in a humid climate, your paper is heavier today than it was during a dry spell. It also gets "soft." A soft wing is a failing wing. Expert folders will sometimes keep their high-end paper in sealed containers with silica packets. It sounds obsessive. It is. But if you want a plane to travel 200 feet, you can't have "soggy" wings.
When the paper absorbs moisture, the fibers expand. This can actually warp your folds. You might think you folded it perfectly symmetrical, but if one side of the sheet was slightly more damp than the other, the plane will pull to the left or right. You’ll spend hours adjusting the elevators when the problem is actually the air in your room.
The "Best" Paper for Different Designs
You can't just pick a paper without picking a plane. They are a duo.
If you’re building the Suzanne (the Collins record holder), you need A4. The proportions of the paper are literally baked into the aerodynamics of the fold. Using 8.5 x 11 paper for an A4 design is like trying to put a truck engine in a motorcycle. It might fit, but the balance will be totally off.
For a stunt plane, like the ones that do loops and circles, you actually want a bit more stiffness. A 90 GSM or even a light cardstock (around 120 GSM) can work for small, compact stunt designs. The extra weight helps the plane maintain its kinetic energy through the loop. If the paper is too light, it will lose speed at the top of the loop and just fall out of the sky.
Then there’s the Long-Distance Glider. For this, weight is the enemy. You want the thinnest paper that can still hold a structural shape. Some enthusiasts even use "Tracing Paper." It’s incredibly light. However, it’s a nightmare to fold because it’s so slippery and delicate. If you can master it, though, the flight times are incredible.
Testing the Theory: The 50-Sheet Trial
I once spent an entire Saturday testing different brands of "standard" copy paper. I used a laser-cut template to ensure every fold was identical. What I found was shocking.
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Even between two different brands of 80 GSM paper, there was a 15% difference in flight distance. One brand—a generic store brand—had a grain that ran diagonally. Paper, like wood, has a grain. When you fold with the grain, the fold is sharp. When you fold against it, the paper "cracks" on a microscopic level.
To find the grain, gently bend the paper in both directions. The direction that offers the least resistance is the grain. For the best paper for a paper airplane, you want your longest, most important folds (usually the center line) to run with the grain. This keeps the fuselage straight and rigid.
Practical Tips for Your Next Flight
Stop using construction paper. Just stop. It’s too heavy, the surface is too rough, and it’s basically like trying to fly a brick. If you’re at home and want the best results without buying specialty Japanese paper, go find the highest quality "Laser Printer Paper" you can find. Laser paper is generally smoother than inkjet paper because it’s designed to handle the high heat of a laser fuser without curling.
That smoothness translates to better airflow.
Also, consider the size. A larger piece of paper doesn't always mean a better plane. While a larger wing provides more lift, the added weight of the extra material usually cancels it out. Most "best" flights happen with a standard A4 or Letter size. If you go much larger, the wings start to droop under their own weight.
What to do next:
- Check your grain. Bend your paper. Find the easy way. Make that your center fold.
- Go A4. If you’re in the US, buy a small pack of A4 paper online. The change in aspect ratio will immediately improve your gliders.
- Use a bone folder. Or a credit card. Don't use your fingernail. A hard, smooth tool creates a "dead fold" that locks the paper's fibers into place.
- Keep it dry. If you're serious, store your "flight sheets" in a Ziploc bag.
The "best" paper is ultimately the one that matches your specific design's need for either momentum or lift. For most of us, that means a high-quality, 75-80 GSM A4 laser sheet. It’s the professional's choice for a reason. Get the folds right, watch the grain, and stop blaming your arm for a nose-dive that was actually caused by the paper.