You just found a "sealed" pair of AirPods Pro on Facebook Marketplace for $120. The seller says they were a gift. They look perfect. The plastic wrap is tight, the labels have that specific San Francisco font, and even the pull tab feels legit. But here is the thing: the counterfeit market is so sophisticated now that the box means nothing. If you don't verify Apple serial number details before the money leaves your hand, you are essentially gambling with your bank account.
It happens constantly.
Buying used or third-party Apple gear is a minefield. Scammers have figured out how to print real serial numbers from genuine devices onto thousands of fake boxes. This creates a false sense of security. You check the number, it shows up as "valid" on the Apple site, and you think you’re safe. You aren't. Not necessarily. There is a specific nuance to reading these results that most people completely overlook.
The Scammer's Greatest Trick
Let’s talk about the "Valid Purchase Date" green checkmark. Most people think that once they see that, the device is 100% authentic. That’s a mistake. A massive one. High-end clones—especially AirPods and iPhones—often use a "borrowed" serial number from a real unit. When you verify Apple serial number status on the official Check Coverage page, Apple’s database recognizes the number, but it has no way of knowing that the physical plastic in your hand isn't the device that actually belongs to that number.
I’ve seen "Super Clones" that actually trigger the pairing animation on an iPhone. They even show up in Settings.
But there are tells. Always. If you are looking at a Mac or an iPhone, the serial number in the "About" menu must match the one etched on the chassis and the one printed on the box. If those three don't align perfectly, walk away. Don't listen to a story about a "replacement box" or a "refurbished shell." It's a scam.
How to Actually Use the Check Coverage Tool
Apple’s Check Coverage tool is your first line of defense, but you have to read between the lines. When you enter the code, you’re looking for three specific data points.
First, the model name. If the box says iPhone 15 Pro Max but the serial returns an iPhone 13, it’s an obvious fake. Second, the telephone technical support status. If it says "Expired," that doesn't mean the phone is fake, but it tells you the device is at least 90 days old. If the seller claims it’s "brand new" but the support is expired, they are lying about the age.
The Mystery of the "Purchase Date Not Validated"
Sometimes you'll see a message saying Apple is unable to provide information because the purchase date hasn't been validated. This is common with devices bought from big-box retailers like Costco or Best Buy that haven't been "activated" in Apple's system yet.
It isn't always a red flag.
However, if you're buying from a random person on the street and see this, be cautious. It means Apple has no record of when the device was sold, which can make getting warranty service a nightmare. You'll need the original paper receipt to fix that, and let’s be honest, most Marketplace sellers "lost" the receipt years ago.
Where to Find the Number When the Screen is Dead
If a device won't turn on, you aren't out of luck. For iPhones, the serial number (or IMEI) is usually printed on the SIM tray. You’ll need a paperclip or a SIM tool to pop it out. It’s tiny. Like, "get your reading glasses" tiny. On an Apple Watch, you have to remove the band; the serial is tucked inside the band slot.
For MacBooks, flip the thing over. There’s a line of microscopic text near the hinge. It starts with "Serial." If that text looks fuzzy, off-center, or feels like a sticker rather than an engraving, you are looking at a fake shell.
Beyond the Official Site: The Power of SickW and iUnlocker
Apple’s official tool is intentionally limited. They don't want to give away too much info for privacy reasons. But if you want the deep dive—the "is this phone actually blacklisted" or "is iCloud locked" info—you need third-party IMEI checkers like SickW or iUnlocker.
💡 You might also like: Wait, was there even a Google in the 1980s?
These sites tap into GSMA databases. They can tell you if a phone has been reported stolen to a carrier. A serial number might look "clean" on Apple’s site because it hasn't been sent for repair, but it could be "blacklisted" by T-Mobile because the previous owner stopped paying their bill. If you buy a blacklisted phone, it’s a paperweight. It will never catch a signal.
The Red Flags That Serial Numbers Can't Hide
Don't let the digital check blind you to physical reality. I once helped a friend who verified an iPad serial number and it came back clean. The iPad looked great. But the weight was off. We put it on a kitchen scale and it was 40 grams lighter than the official specs on Apple’s website.
Someone had gutted the internals and replaced them with cheap components.
- The Font Test: Apple’s printing is incredibly crisp. If the "S" or "N" in the serial number on the back of the device looks slightly blurry under a magnifying glass, it’s a counterfeit.
- The Haptic Feel: On iPhones, the vibration should feel like a solid "thud." Fakes usually have a cheap, whirry vibration motor that feels like a toy.
- The OS Giveaway: If you can get into the software, go to the App Store. If it redirects you to a weird version of the Google Play Store or a browser page, the serial number you checked was definitely stolen from a real device, because the hardware is running Android with a skin.
Dealing with "Refurbished" Serial Numbers
Apple has a specific coding system. If the model number (found right next to the serial) starts with 'M', it was bought new. If it starts with 'F', it’s Apple-certified refurbished. If it starts with 'N', it was a replacement device issued by an Apple Store. If it starts with 'P', it was personalized with an engraving.
Knowing this helps you spot a liar. If a seller says "I bought this brand new from the Apple Store" but the model number starts with 'F', you know they’re full of it. They’re selling you a refurb as a new unit.
Steps to Take Right Now
If you are currently looking at a listing or holding a device, follow this sequence:
- Check the Physical Number: Match the box, the chassis, and the "About" menu.
- Use Apple’s Check Coverage: Verify the warranty status and model name.
- Run an IMEI Check: Use a third-party service to ensure the device isn't carrier-blocked or reported stolen.
- Test the iCloud Status: This is the big one. If "Find My" is turned on, the device is useless to you. The serial number can be "clean," but if it's locked to someone else's Apple ID, you can't bypass it. Ever.
- Verify the Hardware: Check the "Parts and Service History" in Settings > General > About. If it says "Unknown Part" for the screen or battery, the serial number might be real, but the guts of the phone are third-party junk.
Don't rush. Scammers rely on your excitement to cloud your judgment. They want you to see that "Valid Purchase Date" and stop looking. Be the person who looks closer. If a deal feels too good to be true, it’s because it’s a shell of a real device with a stolen identity.
👉 See also: Why the microSD Express Card Switch 2 256 GB Might Be the Only Upgrade That Matters
Once you have confirmed the serial matches across all platforms and the iCloud lock is off, you’re usually in the clear. Just remember that a serial number is a piece of data, not a physical guarantee. Trust the hardware as much as you trust the database.