If you’ve ever driven down US-12 through Northwest Indiana, you know the vibe. It’s a weird, beautiful mix of massive steel mills and some of the most ecologically diverse dunes on the planet. Right in the middle of that sits West Beach in Portage, a spot that manages to feel like a hidden gem even though it’s literally part of a National Park. Most people heading to the Indiana Dunes just follow the signs for the main State Park entrance or maybe hit up the pavilion at Chesterton. They’re missing out. West Beach is where the locals go when they want actual hiking, better views, and a little more breathing room from the Chicago crowds.
It’s part of the Indiana Dunes National Park. Not the State Park. That distinction matters because your pass works differently here, and the amenities have that specific federal government "sturdy but rustic" feel.
The first thing you notice when you pull into the lot at West Beach is the scale. It's huge. But even with a massive parking area, on a Saturday in July, you’ll still see people circling for spots like hawks. It’s popular for a reason. You have the bathhouse—a concrete structure that looks a bit like a bunker—which houses showers, lockers, and a concession stand that sells exactly what you’d expect: hot dogs, ice cream, and overpriced sunscreen. It’s functional. It works.
The Dune Succession Trail is the real reason to visit
Honestly, the beach is great, but the hiking is why you actually come to West Beach in Portage. The Dune Succession Trail is a masterpiece of trail design. It’s basically a massive staircase that takes you up and over the dunes, and the views from the top are staggering. On a clear day, the Chicago skyline looks like a tiny Lego set sitting across the water. It’s eerie how close it feels while you’re standing in a forest of jack pines and marram grass.
The trail tells a story. Henry Chandler Cowles, a legendary botanist from the University of Chicago, basically invented the concept of "ecology" right here in the late 1890s. He noticed that as you move away from the shoreline, the plants change in a predictable way. First, you have the beach grass holding the sand down. Then the shrubs. Then the pines. Finally, the oak barrens. It sounds like a dry science lecture, but when you’re walking it, you see the landscape transforming every few hundred yards. It’s a time machine made of dirt and sand.
The boardwalk section of this trail is legendary. It’s a lot of stairs. Your quads will probably burn. But the payoff is a 360-degree view of Long Lake on one side and Lake Michigan on the other. It’s arguably the best photo op in the entire park system.
✨ Don't miss: Historic Sears Building LA: What Really Happened to This Boyle Heights Icon
What most people get wrong about the water
Lake Michigan isn’t a lake. Not really. It’s an inland sea. People come to West Beach expecting a calm pond and are shocked when the undertow starts pulling at their ankles. The National Park Service (NPS) usually has lifeguards on duty during the peak summer months, which is a big deal. Most of the other "wild" beaches in the Dunes don't have them.
If the flags are red, stay out. Seriously. The rip currents at West Beach can be brutal because of how the shoreline curves near the industrial piers to the west. It creates these swirling pockets of water that can catch even strong swimmers off guard.
The sand itself is "singing sand." It’s a real phenomenon caused by the high quartz content and the shape of the grains. If you scuff your feet just right while walking near the water’s edge, it makes a squeaking or "whistling" sound. It’s a cool party trick to show kids, or honestly, just to enjoy yourself while you’re wandering toward the water.
Long Lake and the "other" side of West Beach
Most visitors park, hit the bathhouse, and walk straight to the lake. They never even look at the southern part of the property. That’s a mistake. Long Lake is this shallow, marshy body of water that sits just behind the primary dunes. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise. You’ve got herons, egrets, and if you’re lucky, maybe a bald eagle or two.
The Long Lake Trail is a 1.6-mile loop that is much flatter than the Dune Succession Trail. It’s sandy, so it’s still a workout, but it takes you through some of the most beautiful wildflower sections in the park. In the spring, the lupine turns the hillsides purple. In the fall, the sumac and oaks go deep red and orange. It’s a completely different atmosphere than the windswept beach just a few hundred yards away.
🔗 Read more: Why the Nutty Putty Cave Seal is Permanent: What Most People Get Wrong About the John Jones Site
Logistics: The stuff nobody tells you
Parking isn't free. Well, it's included if you have the America the Beautiful pass or the specific Indiana Dunes National Park pass. If not, you’re paying a fee at the gate during the summer season. Don't try to park on the side of the road outside the gates; the Portage police and the Park Rangers are extremely efficient at handing out tickets.
The walk from the parking lot to the water is longer than you think. If you’re hauling a cooler, three chairs, an umbrella, and a toddler, you’re going to be exhausted before you even see the waves. Bring a wagon with big, fat tires. Those standard skinny-wheel wagons will just sink into the sand and turn your "relaxing day" into a grueling weight-lifting session.
Also, the flies. We have to talk about the biting black flies. They aren't always there, but when the wind blows from the south, they come out of the woods and they are mean. Bug spray with DEET helps a little, but honestly, the best defense is a steady breeze from the north (off the lake) or just staying in the water.
The Industrial Contrast
One of the coolest—or weirdest, depending on your perspective—parts of West Beach in Portage is the view to the west. You see the U.S. Steel Midwest Plant. Massive smokestacks, giant machinery, and ore boats. To some, it’s an eyesore. But there’s something deeply "Northwest Indiana" about sitting on a pristine, federally protected dune while watching the industry that built the American Midwest hum along in the background. It’s a reminder of the tension between preservation and progress. It’s what makes this specific beach feel real. It’s not a sanitized, fake resort beach. It’s a living landscape.
Seasonal shifts
Everyone goes in July. It’s the default. But if you want the best experience, go in late September. The water stays warm much longer than the air does, so you can still swim on a 70-degree day. The crowds vanish. The light gets golden and soft as the sun sits lower in the sky.
💡 You might also like: Atlantic Puffin Fratercula Arctica: Why These Clown-Faced Birds Are Way Tougher Than They Look
Winter is also incredible. The lake freezes into these massive "ice shelf" formations. It looks like the Arctic. Just don't walk out on the ice. It’s hollow underneath, and people fall through and drown every few years. It’s beautiful to look at from the shore, but treat it with some respect.
Getting the most out of your visit
- Arrive early. If it’s a weekend, be there by 9:00 AM. By 11:00 AM, the gate often closes because the lot is full.
- Hit the stairs first. Do the Dune Succession Trail hike while you’re fresh and before the sun gets too high. Then reward yourself by jumping in the lake.
- Pack a real lunch. The concession stand is fine for a snack, but if you want something decent, you’ll have to drive back out into Portage. There are some great local spots like Tate’s Place just a few miles away.
- Sunscreen is non-negotiable. The sand reflects the UV rays like crazy. You’ll burn twice as fast here as you would in your backyard.
- Check the water quality. Heavy rains can sometimes cause runoff issues. The NPS posts water quality alerts near the bathhouse and on their website.
West Beach is a place of contradictions. It's loud and quiet. It's industrial and wild. It’s a workout and a nap. Whether you’re there for the Cowles history or just to tan, it’s the definitive Indiana Dunes experience. Just remember to bring a bag for your trash; the wind picks up fast, and nobody wants to see your empty Gatorade bottle blowing into the marram grass.
Keep an eye on the horizon for the sunset. Since West Beach faces slightly northwest, you get some of the best sunsets in the country. The sun drops right behind the Chicago skyline or directly into the lake, depending on the time of year. It’s the perfect way to end the day before the rangers start clearing the lot.
To make this trip happen, verify your park pass status online at the National Park Service website before you leave. Download the "NPS App" and save the Indiana Dunes section for offline use; cell service can be spotty once you get down into the swales between the dunes. If you're planning on hiking the full loop, wear actual shoes—not flip-flops—because the sand gets hot enough to blister skin by mid-afternoon.