You’re driving up from San José, the air gets thinner, and suddenly the humidity of the coast just... vanishes. It’s replaced by this thick, swirling mist that makes the trees look like ghosts. Honestly, most people just blast past San Ramon on their way to La Fortuna to see the volcano, which is a massive mistake. If you actually want to feel like you’ve stepped into a 19th-century Costa Rican village without the tourist traps, you pull over at Villa Blanca Cloud Forest Hotel & Spa. It’s sits right on the edge of the Los Ángeles Private Biological Reserve. It’s quiet.
Maybe too quiet for some.
But that’s the point. This place wasn't built by some giant corporate hotel chain looking to maximize square footage. It was originally owned by a former President of Costa Rica, Rodrigo Carazo Odio, and his wife, Estrella Zeledón Lizano. You can tell. There’s a sense of history in the walls that you just don't get at the shiny new resorts in Papagayo. It feels lived-in. It feels intentional.
What it’s actually like inside those Casitas
Forget standard hotel rooms. You’re staying in a "casita."
Basically, these are individual little houses designed to look like traditional adobe homes. They’ve got white-washed walls, red-tiled roofs, and—this is the best part—wood-burning fireplaces. Because the cloud forest gets cold. Really cold. We’re talking 60°F (15°C) at night, which might not sound freezing, but when the dampness of the clouds seeps into your bones, that fire is a lifesaver. The staff actually comes around to light it for you.
The floors are made of baked clay tiles. They’re cold on your feet in the morning, so bring socks.
The furniture is all handcrafted by local artisans from the San Ramon area. No IKEA here. It’s heavy, dark wood that smells like wax and history. Some of the premium casitas have whirlpool tubs that look out over the forest canopy. Imagine sitting in boiling hot water while watching a literal cloud drift through the trees ten feet away from your window. It’s trippy.
The Greentique philosophy and the Reserve
Villa Blanca is part of the Greentique Hotels group. They lean hard into the "sustainable tourism" thing, but unlike some places that just put a card on your bed asking you to reuse towels, these guys actually manage a 2,000-acre private reserve.
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The Los Ángeles Private Biological Reserve is a "transition" forest.
That’s a fancy way of saying it’s where the high-altitude cloud forest meets the lower-altitude tropical forest. The biodiversity is insane. You’ve got over 250 species of birds here. If you’re a birder, you’re going to lose your mind over the Resplendent Quetzal, though they’re notoriously shy. You’ll probably hear the Three-wattled Bellbird before you see it—it sounds like a metallic "bonk" that echoes for miles.
Most people just walk the trails near the lobby. Don't do that.
Hire a guide. Seriously. You’ll walk right past a sloth or a tiny glass frog and never see it because their camouflage is perfect. The guides at Villa Blanca know the specific trees where the hummingbirds congregate. It’s worth the extra colones.
The Mariana Chapel: A weirdly beautiful centerpiece
In the middle of the property sits the Mariana Chapel. It’s a recreation of a colonial church, but the ceiling is the real star. It’s covered in hand-painted ceramic tiles—hundreds of them—depicting different Virgins from all over Latin America.
It was a gift from President Carazo to his wife.
It’s incredibly romantic, which is why the hotel is a magnet for weddings. Even if you aren't getting hitched, sitting in there for five minutes of silence is a vibe. The acoustics are haunting.
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Dining at El Sendero and the Spa experience
The main restaurant, El Sendero, is built into the hillside with floor-to-ceiling windows.
The food is "Costa Rican Fusion." Basically, they take traditional campesino ingredients—black beans, plantains, fresh white cheese—and make them look like art. They source a lot of their produce from their own organic gardens.
- Try the Sopa de Tortilla. It’s standard Tico fare but they do it better than most.
- The coffee is, obviously, world-class. You're in the heart of coffee country.
- Breakfast is usually included, and you should load up on the Gallo Pinto.
Then there’s the Serenity Spa.
Look, a lot of hotel spas feel like clinical offices. This one feels like a cabin. They use volcanic mud and coffee scrubs. If you’ve spent the day hiking the muddy trails of the reserve, getting your back scrubbed with local coffee grounds is surprisingly cathartic. It’s not cheap, but you’re paying for the atmosphere.
The stuff nobody tells you (The Reality Check)
It’s not all sunshine and rainbows. Mostly because there is very little sunshine.
It’s the cloud forest. It rains. A lot. If you come here expecting to tan by a pool, you’re in the wrong province. You will be damp. Your clothes will feel slightly moist. That is the price of admission for living in a jungle in the sky.
Also, the WiFi can be spotty.
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The thick walls of the casitas and the constant mist aren’t great for signals. If you’re a "digital nomad" trying to take Zoom calls, you might struggle. But honestly? If you’re at Villa Blanca Cloud Forest Hotel & Spa and you’re staring at a laptop, you’re doing it wrong.
The drive up from San Ramon is also quite curvy. If you get motion sickness, take something before you leave the main highway. The road is paved, but it winds through the mountains like a snake.
Is it worth the detour?
A lot of people ask if they should stay here or in Monteverde.
Monteverde is amazing, but it’s crowded. It’s become a bit of a backpacker circus. San Ramon and Villa Blanca offer the same cloud forest experience but without the lines for the hanging bridges. It’s more authentic. It’s quieter.
Actionable steps for your trip:
- Pack for layers. Bring a waterproof windbreaker and actual hiking boots. Sneakers will get ruined in the mud.
- Book the night tour. The forest changes completely after dark. You’ll see red-eyed tree frogs, tarantulas, and maybe even a kinkajou.
- Visit the research station. The hotel hosts a research station where scientists study the local insects and plants. It’s a great way to see what’s actually happening in the ecosystem.
- Drive yourself. While you can take a shuttle, having a 4x4 gives you the freedom to explore the town of San Ramon, which has some great local sodas (small local restaurants) and a beautiful cathedral.
- Check the weather patterns. The "dry" season (December to April) is your best bet for clear views, but the "green" season (May to November) is when the forest is at its most vibrant and the mist is most dramatic.
You don't come to Villa Blanca to check things off a bucket list. You come here to disappear for a few days. Put the phone in the safe, light the fire, and just listen to the wind hitting the trees. That’s the real Costa Rica.
Plan your arrival for mid-afternoon. This allows you to check in, get your fire started, and catch the sunset from the terrace of El Sendero before the evening mist rolls in completely. If you're coming from Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO), the drive is roughly 90 minutes, making it a perfect first or last stop on a broader Costa Rican itinerary. Check your tire pressure before heading into the mountains, as the elevation change is significant and can affect your vehicle's handling on the steeper grades.