If you walk through the Aoyama district in Tokyo, you might miss the Undercover flagship store if you aren't looking for it. It’s tucked away. It’s quiet. But inside those walls is the DNA of everything that makes modern fashion actually interesting. Undercover by Jun Takahashi isn't just another Japanese label hitting the runway in Paris; it’s a thirty-year experiment in how to turn punk rock, psychological horror, and high-end tailoring into something you can actually put on your body.
Most people know the Nike collaborations. The Gyakusou running gear is everywhere. But if you think a pair of technical leggings defines Takahashi, you're missing the forest for the trees. Honestly, the real magic happens when he stops trying to be "commercial" and starts leaning into the weird stuff. We're talking about clothes inspired by Stanley Kubrick, Taxidermy, and the visceral feeling of a Joy Division record.
The Ura-Harajuku Explosion and the Birth of "Nowhere"
Back in the early 90s, Tokyo was a different world. You had this tiny neighborhood called Harajuku that was basically a pressure cooker for cool. Jun Takahashi was a student at Bunka Fashion College—the Harvard of Japanese fashion—but he spent his nights singing for a punk tribute band called the Tokyo Sex Pistols. He was obsessed with Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. He didn't just want to make clothes; he wanted to cause a riot.
In 1993, Takahashi teamed up with a guy named Tomoaki Nagao. You probably know him as Nigo, the founder of BAPE. Together, they opened a tiny shop called Nowhere.
It was a pivot point for global culture. On one side of the store, Nigo sold imported American vintage and sneakers. On the other side, Takahashi sold Undercover. It was DIY. It was raw. It was the birth of "Ura-Harajuku" (hidden Harajuku) style. While the rest of the world was looking at grunge in Seattle, these guys were inventing the blueprint for what we now call streetwear. But Takahashi was always the outlier. He wasn't just printing logos on t-shirts. He was deconstructing MA-1 bomber jackets and sewing them back together with lace and safety pins.
Why "We Make Noise, Not Clothes" Isn't Just a Slogan
You’ve probably seen the phrase "We Make Noise, Not Clothes" printed on Undercover tags. It sounds like typical edgy branding. It isn't. It’s a literal manifesto. Takahashi views fashion as a sonic experience.
His breakthrough in Paris in 2002—the "SCAB" collection—is still talked about in hushed tones by archivists. He took ethnic fabrics, crust-punk aesthetics, and intricate hand-stitching to create garments that looked like they were decaying while you wore them. It was beautiful and disgusting at the same time. This is where Undercover by Jun Takahashi separates itself from the pack. While brands like Off-White or Supreme lean into the "hype," Undercover leans into the "uncomfortable."
Think about the 2006 "T" collection. He created an entire fictional record label and made band tees for groups that didn't exist. He treated the runway like a concert merch booth from a fever dream. It was a commentary on how we consume culture. He’s telling you that the shirt is a lie, but it’s a beautiful lie you want to believe in.
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The Kubrick Obsession and Narrative Design
Takahashi is a movie nerd. Specifically, a Stanley Kubrick nerd. If you look at the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, it’s basically a love letter to 2001: A Space Odyssey. Then he did The Shining. Then A Clockwork Orange.
But he doesn’t just slap a movie poster on a hoodie. He breaks down the color palettes—the unsettling oranges and deep blues of the Overlook Hotel—and weaves them into the actual silhouettes. He uses 3D-printing and high-tech fabrics to recreate the feeling of a spacesuit. It’s "narrative design." You aren't just buying a coat; you're buying a costume for a movie that only exists in Takahashi's head.
The "Gyakusou" Effect: When Punk Meets Performance
We have to talk about the Nike partnership because it changed the game for technical apparel. Takahashi is an avid runner. He runs several miles a day with his "GIRA" (Gyakusou International Running Association) crew in Tokyo.
Before Gyakusou launched in 2010, running gear was ugly. It was neon polyester that fit like a trash bag. Takahashi brought the Undercover aesthetic—earth tones, asymmetrical zippers, and silent functionality—to the world of sport.
- Color Theory: He used "non-colors" like olive, maroon, and charcoal to help runners blend into the urban landscape.
- Ergonomics: Pockets were placed specifically where a runner’s hand naturally falls.
- Subversion: He took the swoosh and made it secondary to the design.
This wasn't a celebrity endorsement. It was a lead designer solving his own problems. That’s why the pieces from ten years ago still look modern today.
The Archival Trap: What to Look for Today
If you're trying to get into Undercover by Jun Takahashi now, you're entering a minefield of "archival" sellers on Grailed and Depop. Prices are insane. A "Small Parts" jacket from the late 90s—where every single piece of the garment can be zipped off and swapped with another—can go for thousands of dollars.
But you don't need to spend four figures to "get" the brand. The "JohnUndercover" and "SueUndercover" lines (now mostly consolidated) were always a bit more accessible.
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The Real Grails:
The stuff collectors actually hunt for usually involves the collaborations with artists like Patti Smith or the "But Beautiful" series. In the mid-2000s, Takahashi became obsessed with the idea of "making dolls." He created these strange, stuffed creatures out of vintage fabrics and then photographed them for his graphics. It’s weird. It’s creepy. It’s quintessential Undercover.
Undercover is Not "Streetwear" (And Never Was)
Labeling Undercover as streetwear is a lazy mistake. Streetwear is about accessibility and community. Takahashi is actually quite private. He doesn't do a lot of interviews. He doesn't chase trends. If anything, he’s a traditional couturier who just happens to like leather jackets and sneakers.
His work is closer to Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons than it is to James Jebbia of Supreme. In fact, Kawakubo was his mentor. She was the one who encouraged him to show in Paris. She saw that he wasn't just making clothes for kids in Harajuku; he was deconstructing the very idea of what a "garment" should be.
When you see a pair of Undercover trousers with a layer of tulle underneath, or a blazer with a monster claw for a button, that’s not streetwear. That’s surrealism.
Why the Critics Sometimes Hate It
Not every collection is a hit. Sometimes Takahashi gets too lost in the theme. There have been seasons where the clothes are so conceptual they’re almost unwearable. Critics have occasionally called his work "costumy" or overly reliant on pop-culture references.
But honestly? That’s the point. Undercover isn't for everyone. It’s for the person who wants their wardrobe to feel like a curated collection of artifacts. If you want a basic black hoodie, go to Uniqlo. If you want a hoodie that feels like it was recovered from a crashed UFO in 1974, you buy Undercover.
How to Wear Undercover Without Looking Like a Cosplayer
The trick to wearing Undercover by Jun Takahashi is contrast. You don't go full "total look." If you wear the Kubrick-print pants with the Kubrick-print jacket and the matching hat, you look like a walking advertisement.
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Instead, treat it like jewelry.
Take a pair of the heavily distressed "85" denim—so named because they were part of the 2005 collection—and wear them with a plain white t-shirt. Let the complexity of the garment do the talking. The "85" jeans are legendary because every rip, repair, and stitch was done by hand. They look like they've been through a war. That’s the energy you want to bring.
The Future of the Brand
Jun Takahashi is getting older, but his work isn't getting "safer." He’s been experimenting more with painting and sculpture lately. You can see this reflected in the newer collections, which feature his own oil paintings printed on silk and velvet.
He’s also leaning harder into the "One-Off" concept—items that are completely unique and cannot be replicated. In an era of mass production and AI-generated fast fashion, this is a radical act. He’s doubling down on the human touch. The imperfections. The noise.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you're ready to dive into the world of Undercover, don't just start buying things randomly. It’s an expensive hobby.
- Study the Seasons: Before buying, look at the "Vogue Runway" archives for Undercover. Look at "Languid" (SS04), "But Beautiful" (AW04), and "Earmuff Maniac" (AW09). Understand the story Takahashi was telling that year.
- Check the Tags: Japanese sizing is different. An Undercover size 2 is generally a US Small/Medium. A size 3 is a Large. Older pieces (pre-2000) fit much smaller than modern ones.
- Start with the Graphics: The "U" logo and the "Apple" light are iconic. They’re relatively affordable and give you a taste of the brand’s visual language without the $2,000 price tag of a technical parka.
- Look Beyond the Hype: Everyone wants the Nike collabs. Look for the mainline knitwear or the tailored jackets instead. That’s where the real craftsmanship lives.
- Visit "The Shepherd": If you're ever in Tokyo, check out "The Shepherd Undercover." It’s a sub-label that focuses on what Takahashi himself wears every day. It’s simpler, more mature, and incredibly high-quality.
Undercover by Jun Takahashi is a reminder that fashion can be more than just "clothes." It can be a diary, a movie, and a punk song all at once. It’s messy and complicated, just like the people it’s made for. Grab a piece, wear it until it falls apart, and then sew it back together. That’s the Undercover way.