You get off the ferry and most people just bolt. They head for the buses, the trains, or that massive outlet mall that smells like new sneakers and Cinnabon. But if you hang a right and walk for about ten minutes, you hit Tompkinsville Staten Island NY. It’s a place that feels stuck between two worlds. One side of the street looks like a postcard from a 19th-century shipping village, and the other side is a vibrant, loud, aromatic slice of Sri Lanka.
Most people think Staten Island is just a giant suburb with a lot of SUVs. They’re wrong. Tompkinsville is gritty. It’s hilly. Honestly, your calves will hate you after a day of walking here. But it’s also one of the few places left in New York City where you can actually see the layers of history without a tour guide pointing them out.
The Sri Lankan Heart of the Hill
If you’re coming here and you don’t eat, you’ve basically wasted your subway fare. Tompkinsville is home to one of the largest Sri Lankan populations outside of Sri Lanka itself. It’s not a "tourist" spot. It’s just where people live and cook.
Take Victory Boulevard. You’ll find spots like Lakruwana. It’s not just a restaurant; the place is a museum. The owner, Lakruwana Wijesinghe, basically curated a space filled with intricate wood carvings and clay pots that make you forget you’re a few miles away from the Financial District. Their weekend buffet is legendary. You’ll see people piling their plates with black pork curry and lamprais—which is this incredible dish of rice and meat wrapped in banana leaves and baked.
Then there’s New Asha. It’s smaller. More "no-frills." If you want a hopper—a fermented rice flour crepe that looks like a bowl—this is the spot. You get it with a fried egg in the middle and some spicy sambal. It’s cheap. It’s authentic. It’s the kind of food that makes your forehead sweat in the best way possible.
The Weird, Wonderful History of "The Watering Place"
Before it was a foodie destination, Tompkinsville was actually a pivotal maritime hub. Back in the day, it was called "The Watering Place." Why? Because it had these fresh springs where ships would stop to fill up their casks before heading out across the Atlantic.
✨ Don't miss: Why T. Pepin’s Hospitality Centre Still Dominates the Tampa Event Scene
In the early 1800s, Daniel D. Tompkins—who was not just a guy with a cool name but actually the Vice President of the United States—bought up a ton of land here. He’s the reason the streets have names like Victory and Bay. He wanted to turn the area into a resort destination. For a while, it worked. You still see those massive, slightly crumbling Victorian houses perched up on the hills. They have these wrap-around porches and "widow's walks" where people used to watch for ships coming into the harbor.
But things changed. The neighborhood went through some rough decades. It dealt with urban decay, the loss of manufacturing, and the stigma that often follows the North Shore. Yet, the bones of the place stayed. You can’t fake that kind of architecture.
The Great Beer Rivalry
A lot of people don't realize that Staten Island used to be a brewing powerhouse. In the late 1800s, German immigrants flocked to Tompkinsville and nearby Stapleton because of the water quality and the hills. Hills mean caves. Caves mean natural refrigeration for lager.
The Bechtel Brewery was a titan back then. It dominated the landscape. While those massive brick buildings are mostly gone or converted now, the "beer lineage" is coming back. You see it in places like Flagship Brewing Company nearby. They aren't in the old caves, but they’ve tapped into that same blue-collar, craft-focused energy that defined the neighborhood a century ago.
Living in Tompkinsville: The Reality Check
Look, I’m not going to tell you it’s a pristine wonderland. It’s New York. There’s trash on the sidewalk sometimes. The traffic on Bay Street is a nightmare during rush hour. But if you’re looking at real estate or just a place to hang your hat, Tompkinsville Staten Island NY offers something the rest of the city has lost: space and a view.
🔗 Read more: Human DNA Found in Hot Dogs: What Really Happened and Why You Shouldn’t Panic
The "St. George/Tompkinsville" border is where you find the artists. Because the rents were lower than Brooklyn for a long time, a lot of creators moved into the lofts and older homes. You have the Staten Island Makerspace right on the edge of the neighborhood, which is this massive warehouse where people are welding, 3D printing, and building furniture. It’s a hub of actual, physical productivity.
The hills are the selling point. If you climb up toward Pavilion Hill, you get a view of the Manhattan skyline that is, frankly, better than what you get from the Brooklyn Heights Promenade. Why? Because you can see the Verrazzano Bridge, the Statue of Liberty, and the Freedom Tower all in one panoramic sweep. And you aren't fighting a thousand tourists for a photo op.
Changing Tides and the North Shore Renaissance
There’s been a lot of talk about the "New York Wheel" and the big developments by the ferry. Some of those flopped. Hard. But the smaller, more organic growth in Tompkinsville is sticking.
The Every Thing Goes Book Cafe is a perfect example. It’s run by a local community (the Ganas commune), and it’s been a staple for years. It’s a used bookstore, a cafe, and a performance space. You go in there for a coffee and end up browsing a shelf of 1970s sci-fi paperbacks while someone plays a cello in the corner. It represents the "old" North Shore—the one that values community and quirkiness over shiny glass towers.
But don't ignore the challenges. Gentrification is a dirty word here, just like everywhere else. Long-time residents worry about being priced out as more people realize that a 20-minute free boat ride is a pretty decent commute. There’s a tension between keeping the neighborhood’s grit and welcoming the new coffee shops that charge six dollars for a latte.
💡 You might also like: The Gospel of Matthew: What Most People Get Wrong About the First Book of the New Testament
Getting Around
Transportation is... interesting. You have the Staten Island Railway (SIR), and the Tompkinsville station is the first stop after the ferry terminal. It’s an open-air platform. When the wind kicks up off the water in January, it’s brutal. But it’s efficient. Most locals just walk to the ferry if they live below the hill. If you live on the hill, you take the S46 or S48 bus.
Why You Should Visit Now
Tompkinsville isn't finished. It’s a work in progress. That’s why it’s interesting. You can see the history of 1800s shipping, the mid-century industrial boom, and the modern immigrant success story all on the same block.
If you're planning a trip, do it on a Saturday. Start at the ferry. Walk along Bay Street. Check out the murals. There’s a lot of street art here that reflects the neighborhood's diversity—everything from portraits of local legends to abstract pieces that cover the sides of old warehouses.
Go to the Staten Island Museum nearby first if you want the context, but then just wander. Find the "hidden" staircases that cut between the streets on the hills. They feel like something out of San Francisco.
Actionable Steps for Exploring Tompkinsville
Don't just wander aimlessly. If you want to actually "see" the neighborhood, follow this plan:
- The Food Route: Hit New Asha for a quick snack (get the mutton rolls) and then save the "big" dinner for Lakruwana. If you’re feeling adventurous, look for the small grocery stores that sell Sri Lankan spices you can't find in Manhattan.
- The Viewpoint: Head to the top of Hyatt Street. It’s a steep climb. But once you reach the top, turn around. The way the street frames the harbor is one of the best-kept secrets in the five boroughs.
- The Culture Fix: Check the calendar for Hub 17. It’s an underground-style venue that hosts everything from punk shows to poetry slams. It’s located in a basement and perfectly captures the neighborhood's raw energy.
- Support Local: Visit Every Thing Goes Book Cafe. Buy a book. Drink the tea. This place is the soul of the neighborhood, and it stays alive because people actually show up.
- The Architecture Walk: Walk along Westervelt Avenue. Some of the Victorian homes here are being meticulously restored, while others look like they’re out of a Gothic novel. It’s a fascinating contrast.
Tompkinsville Staten Island NY isn't going to stay this way forever. The secret is out, and the cranes are visible on the horizon. But for now, it remains a place where you can find a real sense of New York’s complicated, messy, and beautiful identity. Stop ignoring the North Shore. The boat ride is free, the food is incredible, and the views are unmatched. There is literally no reason not to go.