You’ve seen it. Even if you don't know the name, you’ve seen that four-leaf clover shimmering against a silk blouse or a simple black turtleneck on the subway. It’s everywhere. Honestly, in a world where luxury trends move faster than a TikTok scroll, the Van Cleef and Arpels long necklace—specifically the Alhambra—occupies this weird, rare space of being both a "basic" status symbol and a genuine masterpiece of jewelry history.
It’s a bit of a flex, sure. But it’s a quiet one. Or at least, it started that way back in 1968.
When Colette Arpels’ nephew, Jacques, first dreamed up the Alhambra, he wasn't trying to create a "viral" product. He was obsessed with luck. He used to pick four-leaf clovers in his garden and give them to his staff with poems. That’s the soul of the piece. It’s why people still drop five figures on a string of gold and stone today. It’s not just a gold chain; it’s a charm against the world.
The Alhambra Magic: More Than Just Clovers
Most people call it the "clover necklace," but the official term is the Sautoir. A Van Cleef and Arpels long necklace usually measures about 80 centimeters. That length is crucial. It’s the difference between a choker that feels restrictive and a piece of jewelry that moves with you. It’s fluid. You can double it up to make a two-strand collar, or wrap it around your wrist if you’re feeling chaotic.
The craftsmanship is where the "expert" bit comes in. If you look closely at a real Alhambra motif, you’ll see the "perlé" border. These are tiny, hand-polished gold beads that frame the stone. It takes about fifteen different steps to make a single motif—from the initial stone selection to the final polish. If those beads look mushy or uneven? It’s a fake. Van Cleef doesn’t do "mushy."
The Stones Everyone Wants
The variety is actually staggering. You’ve got your classic Mother of Pearl, which is harvested mostly from the Indonesian and Australian seas. It’s iridescent and milky. Then there’s Onyx—jet black, sharp, looks incredible with white gold. But the real nerds go for the hard stones: Malachite with its deep green stripes, or Carnelian, which has this fiery, translucent orange glow.
Did you know that Malachite is actually one of the hardest stones to maintain? It’s porous. If you spray perfume on your Van Cleef and Arpels long necklace while wearing Malachite, the stone will eventually turn dull and matte. It "dies," in a sense. Expert collectors know to put their jewelry on after the hairspray has dried.
Why the Vintage Alhambra is the Gold Standard
If you’re browsing the secondary market or the boutiques in Place Vendôme, you’ll hear the term "Vintage Alhambra" constantly. Don’t let the name confuse you; it doesn't necessarily mean it’s 50 years old. It refers to the size of the motif. The Vintage Alhambra motif is exactly 15mm. It’s the "Goldilocks" size—not too big like the Magic Alhambra (which hits about 26mm) and not tiny like the Sweet Alhambra (9mm).
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The "Magic" of Versatility
The Magic Alhambra is a different beast. Usually, these necklaces feature motifs of varying sizes scattered along the chain. It’s more asymmetrical. More avant-garde. Princess Charlene of Monaco is a huge fan of this style. She often wears the multi-motif versions that look almost like a constellation of clovers across her chest.
But honestly? The 20-motif Vintage Alhambra is the one that holds its value best.
If you bought a 20-motif yellow gold and Mother of Pearl necklace ten years ago, you could likely sell it today for more than you paid. That’s rare. Most "luxury" items depreciate the second you walk out the door. Not this. Gold prices fluctuate, but the brand equity of VCA only seems to climb.
Spotting the Real Deal in a Sea of Fakes
Let’s be real: because the design is so geometric and "simple," the market is flooded with counterfeits. Some are terrible. Some are "super-fakes" that could fool a casual observer.
But they can't fool the weight.
A genuine Van Cleef and Arpels long necklace has a specific heft. The gold used is 18k, and it feels substantial. More importantly, look at the lobster clasp. There’s a tiny eagle’s head hallmark (for French-made pieces) and a serial number. Every single necklace has a unique identity. If the engraving looks laser-etched and shallow rather than deeply struck into the metal, walk away.
Also, the stones should be flush. There shouldn't be a gap between the Mother of Pearl and the gold border. If you can see light through a gap, it’s a sign of poor lapidary work. Van Cleef stones are cut to the micrometer. They fit like a glove.
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The Cultural Weight of the Clover
Why does this specific necklace keep appearing on every celebrity from Reese Witherspoon to Catherine, Princess of Wales?
It’s the "Grace Kelly effect."
The Princess of Monaco was the unofficial patron saint of the Alhambra. She owned dozens of them. She’d layer three or four at a time, mixing Tiger’s Eye with Malachite and gold. She made it look effortless. She took something that was inherently expensive and made it look like a casual accessory. That’s the dream, isn't it? To look like you didn't try, even though your necklace costs as much as a mid-sized sedan.
How to Style It Without Looking Like a Caricature
Modern styling has moved away from the "twinset and pearls" vibe. Nowadays, you see people wearing a 20-motif Van Cleef and Arpels long necklace with a crisp white t-shirt and distressed denim.
- The Double Wrap: Take the long chain and loop it twice. It creates a layered look that fills a V-neck perfectly.
- The Backwards Drop: Wearing a backless dress? Drop the necklace down your spine. It’s incredibly elegant and unexpected.
- The Belt: Believe it or not, some people use the 20-motif as a belt over a silk slip dress. It’s bold. It’s very "Euro-summer."
Maintaining the Glow
You’ve spent the money. Now don't ruin it.
I’ve seen people go swimming in the ocean with their Alhambra. Please, don't. Chlorine and salt water are brutal on gold and catastrophic for organic stones like Mother of Pearl. These necklaces are sturdy, but they aren't invincible.
Clean it with a soft, dry cloth. No steam cleaners. No ultrasonic baths unless you’re taking it to a professional who knows exactly what stones are in the setting. Turquoise, for instance, can change color if it gets too wet or comes into contact with skin oils over decades. It’s a "living" piece of jewelry.
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The Investment Reality
Is a Van Cleef and Arpels long necklace worth it?
If you’re looking for a piece that transitions from a board meeting to a gala, yes. If you’re looking for something that your daughter or granddaughter will actually want to wear in forty years, absolutely.
The price increases are no joke. Van Cleef typically raises prices annually, sometimes twice. What costs $16,000 today might be $18,500 by next Christmas. It’s one of the few luxury purchases that feels like a hedge against inflation. But beyond the money, there’s the feeling. There’s a reason it’s been the "luck" symbol of the elite for over half a century. It’s balanced. It’s symmetrical. It’s a bit of perfect geometry in a messy world.
Your Next Steps for Acquisition
Before you pull the trigger, do your homework. Visit a boutique if you can. You need to see how the different gold tones (Yellow, Rose, White) interact with your skin. Rose gold is particularly popular right now because it’s subtle, but Yellow gold is the "OG" 1968 look.
Check the secondary market carefully. Sites like Sotheby’s or Fashionphile are decent, but always verify the serial number with the brand if possible. If you’re buying new, remember that the "boutique experience" includes life-long cleaning services and the ability to have the chain lengthened or shortened (within reason). Most 20-motif necklaces can be adjusted by about 2 inches for free within the first year of purchase.
Take your time. This isn't a trend; it's a legacy. Once you put it on, you’ll realize why it’s never gone out of style. It’s just... easy. And in the world of high jewelry, "easy" is the hardest thing to achieve.