You've seen it. That sharp, high-contrast look where the sides are buzzed down to the skin while a thick mane of hair flows over the top. It’s a polarizing look, honestly. Some guys think it’s a bit "2014 hipster," but if you look at the streets of London, New York, or Tokyo right now, the undercut hairstyle for men with long hair is actually evolving into something much more refined. It isn’t just for Vikings or lead singers in indie bands anymore.
The beauty of it is the utility.
Long hair is a massive pain. Let's be real. It gets in your eyes, it takes forever to dry, and on a humid day, it feels like you're wearing a wool scarf you can't take off. By shaving the sides and back, you’re basically cutting your maintenance time in half while keeping the length that defines your look. It's a cheat code. You get the aesthetic of a long-haired rebel with the cooling system of a buzz cut.
The Technical Reality of Shaving Your Head
Most people think an undercut is just a "number two on the sides." It's not. If you go to a high-end barber like those at Pankhurst London or Schorem in Rotterdam, they’ll tell you that the "disconnect" is the most important part. A disconnected undercut means there is no fade. No blending. Just a hard line where the long hair stops and the short hair begins.
This creates a shelf.
When you let your hair down, it hides the shaved parts completely. You look like you just have regular long hair. But when you pull it up into a knot or a ponytail? Boom. Instant edge. This versatility is exactly why celebrities like Jason Momoa or David Beckham have cycled through variations of this look for years. It allows for a professional "down" look and a practical "up" look for the gym or the office.
But there is a catch. Your head shape matters. Honestly, if you have a very prominent bump on the back of your skull (the occipital bone), a high undercut might make it look more pronounced. A good barber will adjust the height of the shave to complement your bone structure rather than just blindly following a photo you found on Pinterest.
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Maintenance: The Part Nobody Tells You
If you're going for the undercut hairstyle for men with long hair, you need to be prepared for the "fuzzy" stage. Your sides will grow back way faster than you think. Within two weeks, that clean, sharp shave becomes a prickly mess.
You have two choices here.
You can either visit your barber every 14 days for a "clean up"—which gets expensive—or you can learn to use a pair of home clippers. If you’re doing it yourself, stick to the existing lines. Don’t try to redefine the boundary between the long and short hair while looking in a bathroom mirror. You will mess it up. Trust me.
Then there’s the wash routine. Since you have less hair, you might think you need less shampoo. Technically, yes. But you’re also exposing more of your scalp. Scalp health becomes huge when the skin is visible. If you have dandruff, it has nowhere to hide. Using a tea tree oil-based shampoo can help keep the skin on the sides of your head from getting flaky or irritated by the constant clipper friction.
Styling the Top
What do you do with all that length?
- The Classic Man Bun: The default. It keeps the hair out of your face and highlights the undercut.
- The Braided Look: Often called "Viking style." It’s high effort but looks incredible for events.
- The Side Sweep: Pushing all the long hair to one side, exposing one shaved flank. It’s very 90s grunge-meets-modern-editorial.
- The Half-Up Top Knot: Only tying back the top section and letting the rest flow.
Most guys find that a matte clay or a sea salt spray works best. You want texture. If you use a high-shine pomade with long hair, it can start looking greasy really fast. You want it to look like you just walked off a beach, not like you’re trying out for a role in Grease.
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Why the Disconnect Works for Different Hair Types
Curly hair is actually a secret weapon for the undercut hairstyle for men with long hair. If you have tight curls, long hair often turns into a "triangle" shape because of the volume at the sides. It poofs out. Shaving the sides removes that bulk entirely. It lets the curls fall vertically rather than horizontally.
For guys with stick-straight hair, the undercut provides much-needed structure. Without the shaved sides, straight long hair can sometimes look a bit limp or lifeless. The contrast of the shaved skin gives the style a "frame" that makes the straight hair look intentional and sharp.
It's also worth mentioning the "weight" factor. Heavy, thick hair can cause headaches when tied up. Seriously. I’ve talked to guys who had to cut their hair because the weight of a full bun was giving them tension migraines. The undercut removes about 40% to 50% of that weight. It’s a literal weight off your shoulders.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Don't go too high.
If the shave line goes past the "corners" of your forehead (the parietal ridge), you risk looking like you have a mohawk. That’s a much more aggressive look. Unless you're playing in a punk band, you usually want the line to sit just where the head starts to curve upward.
Another big mistake? Neglecting the nape of the neck. When you have an undercut, your neckline is on full display. If you have neck hair that grows down toward your back, make sure your barber squares it off or tapers it. A messy neckline ruins the "expensive" look of a well-maintained undercut.
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Also, be honest about your hairline. If your hairline is receding significantly at the temples, an undercut can sometimes highlight it. It pulls the hair back and exposes the corners. If you're thinning, a lower undercut—or keeping more length on the sides—might be a better move.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Barber Visit
Ready to pull the trigger? Don't just walk in and ask for "an undercut." That’s too vague.
First, decide on the height. Bring a photo of where you want the shave to stop. Do you want it to wrap around the back (a "360 undercut") or just stay on the sides? Most guys find the 360 version looks more balanced.
Second, talk about the "guard size." A #1 guard is very short, almost skin. A #3 guard leaves enough hair to show some color and texture. If you’re nervous, start with a #4. You can always go shorter, but you can’t put the hair back on once it’s hit the floor.
Third, get the right products. Pick up a high-quality sea salt spray for volume and a wide-tooth comb. Avoid fine-tooth combs; they’ll just snag and cause breakage on your long hair.
Finally, plan your exit strategy. If you ever want to grow it out, it’s going to take a year or more of "awkward phases" where you’ll need to use hats or headbands. Knowing that ahead of time helps you commit to the look. It’s a bold choice, but for the man who wants the best of both worlds—the edge of a short cut and the soul of long hair—it’s unbeatable.