You’ve seen the photos. They’re everywhere on Instagram. A vibrant, emerald-green cathedral of leaves arching over a set of rusted railway tracks that seem to stretch into infinity. It looks like something ripped straight out of a Studio Ghibli film or a dream you had after reading too much Tolkien. But honestly? Most people who talk about the Ukraine Tunnel of Love treat it like a digital wallpaper rather than a real, living place. It’s located in a tiny town called Klevan, in the Rivne region of western Ukraine, and there is a massive difference between the filtered snapshots and the actual, gritty reality of standing on those tracks while mosquitoes try to carry you away.
It’s magical. It really is. But it’s also a working industrial site.
The thing is, nature didn't just decide to grow this way because it felt romantic. This isn't a botanical garden. The tunnel was formed over decades because a private train, serving a fiberboard factory nearby, travels the route three times a day. As the train passes through, it knocks back the birch, hornbeam, and cherry trees, essentially "pruning" them into a perfect rectangular-to-arch shape. It’s a literal collision between industry and biology. If the factory closed tomorrow, the tunnel would eventually vanish, choked out by overgrowth or collapsing under its own weight.
The Secret History Most Tourists Miss
Most visitors show up, take their selfies, and leave. They don't realize that during the Cold War, this stretch of track was a military secret. Klevan was home to a Soviet base, and the trees were intentionally planted thick and close to the tracks to hide the movement of military hardware and supplies from overhead surveillance. The "romance" of the Ukraine Tunnel of Love is actually rooted in camouflage and military deception.
Isn't that wild?
What we now see as the ultimate spot for wedding photos was originally designed to hide tanks and munitions from Western satellites. After the Soviet era faded, the military presence dwindled, but the trees kept growing. The local plywood factory, Odek, kept using the line. They didn't have the budget or the interest to clear-cut the forest, so they let the train do the gardening.
When to Actually Go (And When to Stay Away)
Timing is everything. If you show up in late autumn or winter, you’re going to be disappointed. The "tunnel" becomes a skeleton of grey branches and brown mud. It’s still hauntingly beautiful in a gothic sort of way, but it isn't the lush green paradise you see on travel blogs.
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Late Spring to Mid-Summer: This is peak green. The canopy is thickest in May and June. The downside? The bugs. I cannot emphasize this enough: the mosquitoes in the Rivne region are legendary. They are aggressive, they are numerous, and they do not care about your aesthetic. If you don't bring heavy-duty repellent, your romantic stroll will turn into a sprint.
Early Autumn: September brings the gold. The tunnel turns yellow and burnt orange. It’s arguably more beautiful than the green phase because the light hits the floor of the tracks in a way that feels like liquid honey.
The Golden Hour: Don't go at noon. The sun is too high, and it blows out the shadows, making the tunnel look flat. Go an hour after sunrise or an hour before sunset. The low-angle light filters through the leaves and creates that dappled, ethereal glow that makes the Ukraine Tunnel of Love famous.
Logistics: Getting to Klevan Without Losing Your Mind
Ukraine is a big country. Klevan isn't exactly next door to Kyiv. It’s about a seven-hour drive or a long train journey. Most travelers stay in Rivne or Lutsk.
You can take a marshrutka (a local minibus) from Rivne. They run frequently and are incredibly cheap, though they can be cramped and "authentic" in a way that involves smelling someone else’s groceries. From the bus stop in Klevan, it’s about a 20-minute walk to the entrance of the tunnel.
There is no ticket booth. No official "gate." Just a path that leads into the woods.
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People always ask: "Is it safe with the train?"
Yes, mostly. The train moves at a snail’s pace. You will hear it coming long before you see it. Because it’s an industrial line, there isn't a fixed public schedule that stays the same every day, but generally, it runs in the morning and afternoon. When it appears, you just step off the tracks into the brush, let it clank past with its load of wood, and then step back on. It adds a weirdly mechanical heartbeat to the forest.
The Legend of the Wish
There is a local legend—probably boosted by the tourism board but charming nonetheless—that says if a couple is sincere in their love and they walk through the tunnel while making a wish, it will come true.
Local guides often tell stories of couples who met there, or people who traveled from as far as Japan just to propose under the canopy. In fact, a Japanese director, Akizuki Rokuro, even filmed a movie there called Klevan: Tunnel of Love. It’s a massive deal in East Asia, which explains why you’ll often see a surprising number of Japanese and Chinese tourists in this remote corner of Ukraine.
Reality Check: The Impact of Current Events
It would be dishonest to talk about the Ukraine Tunnel of Love today without acknowledging the geopolitical context. Since the 2022 invasion, tourism in Ukraine has obviously shifted. While Klevan is in the west and far from the front lines, the country is under martial law. Air raid sirens are a reality even in peaceful-looking forests.
Energy blackouts sometimes affect train schedules and local transport.
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However, the tunnel remains a symbol of resilience for locals. It’s a place of peace in a time of incredible stress. If you are visiting as an international traveler in 2026, you need to be aware of the logistics of entering the country—usually via bus or train from Poland (Przemysl to Lviv is the standard route).
Practical Advice for the Modern Traveler
- Footwear Matters: The tracks are filled with gravel and uneven wooden ties. Leave the heels at home. Wear sturdy sneakers or hiking boots.
- The Power of Rivne: Don't just see the tunnel and bolt. The city of Rivne has incredible amber museums and a surprisingly vibrant coffee culture.
- Respect the Factory: Remember that this is a workplace. Don't climb on the train or leave trash on the tracks. The workers at the Odek plant are generally used to tourists, but they have a job to do.
- Cash is King: While Ukraine is very digital-friendly (you can pay for almost anything with a phone in Kyiv), in Klevan, you’ll want some Hryvnia (UAH) for small shops or the bus.
Why This Place Persists
There is something deeply human about our obsession with this spot. It’s the "reclaimed by nature" aesthetic. It reminds us that even our industrial footprints—cold steel and heavy machinery—can eventually be softened by the earth.
The Ukraine Tunnel of Love isn't just a backdrop for a profile picture; it’s a lesson in patience. It took decades for those trees to knit together. It took a specific set of economic and military circumstances to create the environment. It is a fragile ecosystem that survives only because of a very specific balance between man and forest.
If you go, go for the silence. Walk deep enough into the tunnel—past the first 500 meters where the crowds congregate—and the sound of the town disappears. You’re left with the rustle of leaves and the smell of damp earth and old iron. That’s the real magic. Not the photo, but the feeling of being swallowed by a green world.
Immediate Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the Railway Status: Before heading out, ask your accommodation in Rivne if the Odek factory train is currently operational, as maintenance can sometimes close the track for days.
- Pack "Off!" or similar: Get the strongest insect repellent available in Ukraine (look for "діетилтолуамід" or DEET on the label) at a local pharmacy (aptyeka).
- Download Offline Maps: Signal can be spotty in the dense canopy; have the Klevan area downloaded on Google Maps or Maps.me.
- Support Local: Buy your snacks and water from the small vendors near the tunnel entrance rather than bringing them from the city; it keeps the local community invested in preserving the site.