You’re driving up Highway 119, the "Peak to Peak," and the air starts getting thin. By the time you hit Central City, you're at 8,500 feet. Most people are there for the slot machines or the weirdly steep streets, but if you look past the neon signs of the modern casinos, there’s a massive brick building that looks like it’s holding up the entire mountainside. That’s the Teller House.
It’s old. 1872 old.
Back then, Central City wasn't just a mountain town; it was the "Richest Square Mile on Earth." People weren't just digging for gold; they were building an empire in the Rockies. The Teller House was the crown jewel of that era, a luxury hotel that cost roughly $100,000 to build when a dollar actually meant something. Honestly, it’s a miracle it’s still standing. Fires wiped out most of the town in 1874, but this place survived. It’s seen the boom, the total bust, the ghost town years, and the weird gambling revival of the 90s.
If you walk inside today, you’re not just looking at a historical site. You’re looking at the ego of the Old West carved into wood and stone.
The Face on the Barroom Floor: More Than Just a Tourist Trap
Let’s get the big thing out of the way first. Most people visit the Teller House for one reason: a painting on the floor. It’s exactly what it sounds like. A woman’s face, painted directly onto the wood planks of the barroom.
It wasn't some ancient relic from the 1800s, though. That’s a common misconception.
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In 1936, a guy named Herndon Davis was hired to do some restoration work. He got into a tiff with his boss—mostly over artistic direction and probably some ego—and decided to leave his mark in a way that couldn't be ignored. He painted the face in the middle of the night. It was inspired by a poem by Hugh Antoine d'Arcy, which is a pretty melodramatic piece of literature about a man losing his mind and drawing his lost love on a barroom floor before dropping dead.
Davis didn’t drop dead, but his prank became the most famous thing in the building.
The face is startlingly clear. It’s got this haunting, wide-eyed look that follows you around the room. Because it’s on the floor, they’ve had to cord it off so people don’t scuff her nose with their hiking boots. It’s sort of surreal to see high-end Victorian architecture juxtaposed with a piece of "vandalism" that became more valuable than the building’s original crown molding.
President Grant and the Silver Bricks
There’s a legendary story about the Teller House that sounds like total fiction, but it actually happened. In 1873, President Ulysses S. Grant came to visit. The locals wanted to impress him. They didn't just throw a parade; they paved the entrance of the hotel with solid silver bricks.
They literally laid down a path of silver so the President wouldn’t have to step in the Colorado mud.
Think about the sheer audacity of that. It was a flex. The silver came from the nearby Caribou Mine. Grant, being a guy who supposedly hated flashiness, was reportedly a bit uncomfortable with it. He walked on the sidewalk next to the silver instead of on the bricks themselves. Or at least, that’s how the local lore goes. It tells you everything you need to know about the atmosphere of Central City at the time. It was a place where people had more money than sense, and they wanted the world—and the President—to know it.
The hotel had 150 rooms. It had French chefs. It had furniture shipped across the ocean and then hauled up a mountain by mule teams.
The Architecture of Survival
Central City is built into a gulch. Everything is vertical. The Teller House sits on a massive stone foundation that feels like part of the mountain. It was designed by Robert S. Roeschlaub, who was basically the rockstar architect of early Colorado. He’s the guy who did the Central City Opera House next door.
If you look at the exterior, it’s Italianate style. Tall, narrow windows. Heavy cornices. It looks like it belongs in a European capital, not a dusty mining camp.
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- The Walls: They are incredibly thick. This is why the building didn't burn down when the rest of the town was a tinderbox.
- The Woodwork: Deep, dark walnuts and oaks. Most of it is original.
- The Opera Connection: The hotel and the Opera House are inextricably linked. During the summer festival, the Teller House transforms. It’s not just a museum; it’s a living backstage for some of the best opera singers in the world.
Walking through the hallways is a bit of a trip. The floors creak in that specific way that only 150-year-old wood can creak. It’s a deep, heavy groan. You can almost feel the weight of the thousands of miners, socialites, and gamblers who have paced those same boards.
Why It Almost Disappeared
By the mid-20th century, Central City was hurting. The gold was gone. The silver was tapped out. The town was basically a beautiful corpse. The Teller House fell into disrepair. There were periods where it was basically just a storage locker for ghosts.
The Central City Opera House Association eventually took it over. That’s really what saved it. Without the Opera, this building would probably be a parking lot or a collapsed pile of bricks. They turned the upper floors into housing for the performers. Imagine being a world-class soprano and staying in a room where a Victorian mining mogul once lived. No AC, thin walls, and a lot of history. It’s not exactly the Ritz-Carlton anymore, but the vibe is unmatched.
Modern Day: What to Actually Do There
If you go today, don't expect a functioning hotel where you can book a room on Expedia. It doesn't work like that. The Teller House operates primarily as a restaurant and bar during the summer season (typically June through August), coinciding with the Opera festival.
- Eat at the Face on the Barroom Floor: The restaurant is actually pretty decent. It’s not just tourist food. They do a lot of high-end bistro stuff.
- The Bar: Grab a drink and look at the floor. It’s a rite of passage.
- The Tours: Occasionally, the Opera Association runs tours that take you into the upper rooms. If you can get on one, do it. The "Gold Chair Room" is something else—wallpaper that costs more than most people’s cars and furniture that looks like it belongs in a museum. Because it does.
- The Patio: In the summer, the patio is the best place in town to people-watch. You get a mix of gamblers in hoodies and opera patrons in tuxedos. It’s a weird, beautiful contrast.
The Ghost Stories (Because Of Course)
You can't have a building this old in a town this vertical without ghost stories. Employees have talked about "Baby Doe" Tabor—the famous silver queen of Colorado—wandering the halls. Others mention a "Man in Black" who hangs out near the bar.
Is it haunted? Honestly, probably not. But when the wind howls through the gulch and the building settles at night, you’ll believe in anything. The atmosphere is heavy. It’s the kind of place where the past feels more real than the present.
Getting There and Logistics
Central City is about an hour from Denver. Take I-70 to the Central City Parkway. It’s a much easier drive than the old canyon road.
Parking is usually free in the big lots, and there’s a shuttle, but just walk. The town is small. The Teller House is located at 120 Eureka Street. It’s right next to the Opera House. You can't miss it. It’s the biggest thing on the street.
Keep in mind that Central City is a "limited stakes" gambling town. That means there are casinos everywhere. It can feel a bit jarring to see a giant flashing slot machine right across from a 19th-century masterpiece. Just ignore the bells and whistles and focus on the brickwork.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
- Check the Calendar: If you go in the winter, the Teller House is often closed or has very limited hours. The "off-season" in Central City is real. Always check the Central City Opera website for current dining hours.
- Altitude is Real: You are at 8,500 feet. One drink at the Face on the Barroom Floor feels like three. Drink twice as much water as you think you need.
- The "Secret" Museum: The Gilpin County Historical Society is nearby. If the Teller House sparks your interest, go there next. They have the actual artifacts that aren't bolted down in the hotel.
- Wear Flat Shoes: The streets are steep and often made of uneven stone or brick. This isn't the place for heels, even if you’re going to the Opera.
- Photography: The lighting inside is tricky—very dark with high contrast. If you’re trying to get a photo of "The Face," try to do it without a flash to avoid the glare off the protective glass.
The Teller House isn't just a building. It's a survivor. It represents the transition of Colorado from a rugged frontier to a place of sophisticated culture. It’s a bit dusty, a bit weird, and totally irreplaceable. Whether you’re there for the history, the art, or just a cold beer on a hot mountain afternoon, it’s a spot that demands you slow down and look at the floor for a change.
Next Steps for Your Trip
To make the most of a visit to the Teller House, start by booking a performance at the Central City Opera. It’s the oldest opera house in the country, and the acoustics are legendary. Plan your arrival for at least two hours before the show starts. This gives you enough time to grab a table at the Teller House bar, see the famous floor painting without the intermission crowds, and walk up to the Coeur d'Alene Mine nearby for a quick look at the grit that paid for all that Victorian glamour. If you're staying overnight, look into the smaller B&Bs in town rather than the big casinos; you'll get a much better sense of the "Richest Square Mile" that way.