You've seen them on Pinterest. Those galvanized steel tubs sitting in a perfectly manicured backyard, looking like a rustic dream. It’s a swimming pool stock tank, and honestly, it's the most polarizing DIY project in the home improvement world right now. Some people swear they are the best $600 they ever spent, while others end up with a rusted, slimy mess that becomes a mosquito breeding ground within a month.
It’s just a big bucket, right? Well, sort of.
Technically, these are called stock tanks because they are designed for livestock—cattle, horses, sheep—to drink out of on farms. Companies like Behlen Country or Hastings Equity Manufacturing have been making these things for decades without ever realizing city dwellers would start wearing swimsuits in them. But here we are. It’s a vibe. It’s "Hill Country Chic." But if you think you can just drop one in the grass and call it a day, you’re in for a very cold, very dirty surprise.
The Reality of Setting Up a Swimming Pool Stock Tank
Let's talk weight. A standard 8-foot round stock tank holds about 700 gallons of water. Water is heavy—really heavy. We are talking over 5,800 pounds just for the liquid, plus the weight of the steel and whoever is splashing around inside. If you put that on a deck that wasn't built for a hot tub, you’re going to have a bad time. Probably a "collapse-through-the-wood" kind of bad time.
You need a level surface. It sounds obvious. It isn't. Even a slight 2-degree grade will make the water line look crooked and put uneven pressure on the seams of the tank. Most experts, and the folks over at Stock Tank Pool Authority, suggest a crushed gravel base or a concrete pad. Sand is okay, but it shifts. Gravel drains. Drainage is your best friend because, at some point, you’re going to have to empty this thing, and you don't want to turn your lawn into a swamp.
That Iconic Steel Look Comes With A Catch
Galvanized steel is coated in zinc to prevent rust. That’s the "galvanized" part. However, if you use chlorine—which you definitely should if you don't want to swim in a petri dish—it eats that zinc coating for breakfast. Eventually, you get rust.
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Some people try to solve this by painting the inside with epoxy liners or pond shield products. This is a massive pain in the neck. You have to prep the metal, sand it, and apply the coating perfectly, or it just peels off like a bad sunburn. Honestly? Most veteran stock tank owners just accept that the tank might have a 5-to-10-year lifespan. It’s a "disposable" pool in the long run, even if it feels permanent.
Filtration Is Not Optional
I’ve seen people try to manage a swimming pool stock tank with just a bucket and some hand-skimming. Don't do that. You need a real pump. Specifically, a sand filter pump like the Intex Krystal Clear is the gold standard for this specific niche.
You have to cut holes in the side of your brand-new metal tank. It’s terrifying. You get a hole saw, pray to the DIY gods, and drill through the steel to install the inlet and outlet plungers. If you don't do this, the water stays stagnant. Stagnant water in July is basically an invitation for every mosquito in a five-mile radius to move in and start a family.
- The Pump: A 1,500 GPH (gallons per hour) pump is usually plenty.
- The Hoses: Keep them short to maintain pressure.
- The Chemicals: You need a floating chlorinator. Do not—under any circumstances—drop chlorine tablets directly onto the floor of the tank. They will bleached the metal and cause immediate corrosion.
Is It Actually A Giant Solar Cooker?
This is the number one question: "Doesn't the metal get too hot to touch?"
Kinda, but not really. The water acts as a massive heat sink. Because the water is touching the metal, it keeps the steel at roughly the same temperature as the liquid inside. The rim? Yeah, the rim can get spicy in the Texas sun. A lot of people use a split pool noodle or a custom wood ledge to cover the top edge so they don't sear their forearms when leaning back.
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In fact, the opposite is often the problem. These tanks stay cold. They are deep, and steel doesn't have the best insulation properties for holding heat. If you want a "hot" stock tank, you’re looking at a different beast entirely involving propane heaters or wood-burning coils, which is a whole other rabbit hole of plumbing and fire safety.
What Most People Get Wrong About Maintenance
People treat these like "set it and forget it" features. They aren't.
You've got to test the pH levels. You've got to backwash the filter. If you leave a stock tank uncovered, it will collect every leaf, bug, and wayward blade of grass in the neighborhood. Because the surface area is smaller than a traditional pool, the debris density feels much higher. Buy a cover. Or, if you want to stay on-brand, get a heavy-duty tarp with some bungee cords. It’s not sexy, but it works.
The Cost Breakdown (The Real One)
You see the tank at Tractor Supply for $500 and think, "Cheap pool!"
Wait.
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By the time you buy the pump ($150), the through-wall fittings ($50), the hole saw bit ($20), the chemicals ($40), and the ground prep materials ($100), you’re easily looking at a $900 project. If you pay someone to build a cedar deck around it so it doesn't look like a farm animal’s bathtub? You’re into the thousands.
It is still significantly cheaper than an in-ground pool, which can easily run $50,000 these days. But it’s more expensive than those blue inflatable eyesores you see at big-box stores. It’s the middle ground. It’s for people who want something that looks intentional and architectural without taking out a second mortgage.
Why Some Communities Hate Them
Check your HOA. Seriously.
Many Homeowners Associations have strict rules against "above-ground pools," and they don't care how "aesthetic" your stock tank is. They see a metal tub; they see a violation. Also, some city codes require a fence around any vessel that holds more than 18 or 24 inches of water. A standard stock tank is 24 inches deep. Do the math. You might be legally required to build a 4-foot fence with a locking gate just to have a tub in your yard.
Making the Final Call
The swimming pool stock tank is a vibe, but it’s a vibe that requires a bit of grit. You’re going to get some rust. You’re going to have to learn how to use a wrench. You’re going to spend a Saturday afternoon covered in metal shavings.
But on a 95-degree day, when you’re sitting in that cold water with a drink in your hand, and the galvanized steel is reflecting the sunset? It’s hard to argue with the results. It feels permanent in a way that plastic pools never do. It feels like a part of the landscape.
Immediate Next Steps for Your Project
- Measure your access point: These tanks do not bend. If you have a 8-foot wide tank but a 3-foot wide gate, you are going to have a very frustrating afternoon with a crane or a demolished fence.
- Source the tank locally: Shipping a stock tank is insanely expensive because they are "oversized." Buy it from a local farm supply store and rent a trailer to haul it home yourself.
- Buy your pump before the tank: In the peak of summer, these pumps sell out fast. If you have a tank full of water and no way to circulate it, you have about 72 hours before the water turns into a swamp.
- Check the seal: Before you fill the whole thing, put about four inches of water in and check the bottom seam for leaks. It’s much easier to fix a factory defect when the tank isn't weighing three tons.