It’s 1975. You’re watching a bright red Ford Torino screech around a corner in Bay City, California. The tires are screaming. The suspension is pleading for mercy. But when the door swings open and David Soul and Paul Michael Glaser step out, your eyes aren't on the badges or the Magnums. They're on the wool. Specifically, that chunky, cream-colored wrap-around cardigan with the bold geometric patterns. The Starsky and Hutch jumper wasn't just a costume choice; it was a vibe that managed to bridge the gap between "tough guy detective" and "guy you'd want to grab a beer with."
People still obsess over this sweater. Honestly, it’s a bit weird if you think about it. Most 70s fashion—the leisure suits, the synthetic disco shirts that probably smelled like burnt plastic—died a quiet, deserved death. Yet, the "Starsky" cardigan remains. It’s a staple of retro fashion that refuses to quit, popping up in replicas, high-fashion homages, and vintage shops from London to Los Angeles.
The Mystery of the Original Knit
Who actually made the original? That’s where things get murky. For years, fans debated if it was a custom job by the wardrobe department or a store-bought piece. The truth is actually pretty grounded. While Hollywood often creates bespoke outfits for its leads, the original sweater worn by Paul Michael Glaser was a Mexican-style Cowichan or "Salish" knit. It wasn't some high-fashion designer piece plucked from a Parisian runway. It was a rugged, heavy, functional piece of knitwear.
It felt real. That's the key.
When you look at the screen-worn versions, you notice the weight. This isn't your grandma's thin cashmere. It’s thick wool. It has that distinctive shawl collar and a belt that almost nobody ever actually tied—it just kind of dangled there while Starsky chased down informants. The patterns aren't just random shapes; they draw heavily from indigenous designs of the Pacific Northwest, specifically the Coast Salish people. These "Cowichan-style" sweaters became a massive trend in the mid-70s, but Glaser’s portrayal turned a regional craft into an international icon of masculinity.
Why the Starsky and Hutch Jumper Broke the Rules
Before Starsky & Hutch, TV cops were mostly stiff. You had Dragnet. You had Adam-12. Everyone wore suits or crisp uniforms. Then came Dave Starsky. He was messy. He was athletic. He wore sneakers (Adidas SL72s, if you’re a gearhead) and he wore that knit.
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The Starsky and Hutch jumper signaled a shift in how we viewed authority figures. It was approachable. It suggested that a detective could be a regular guy who gets cold and likes comfort. This wasn't a "uniform" in the traditional sense, but it became a brand. If you saw the sweater, you knew which one was the street-smart kid from Brooklyn and which one was the more refined Hutch.
Interestingly, Glaser allegedly wasn't a huge fan of the sweater initially. There are various industry stories floating around—some suggest he found it bulky or cumbersome for action scenes. Think about it. Jumping over fences and sliding across car hoods in a heavy wool wrap isn't exactly aerodynamic. It’s heavy. It holds heat. If it gets wet, it weighs about forty pounds. But the camera loved it. The way the cream color popped against the red Torino created a visual palette that defined the show's aesthetic.
The Anatomy of the Design
What makes it a "Starsky" sweater? If you're looking for an authentic replica or a vintage find, you have to look for specific markers:
- The Shawl Collar: It has to be wide. It should frame the neck and look like it could actually keep the wind out.
- The Pattern: Bold, dark brown or black geometric zig-zags and diamonds across the chest and upper arms.
- The Closure: No buttons. No zippers. It’s a wrap-around style held by a knit belt.
- The Yarn: It needs to look "hairy." Real wool, not that shiny acrylic stuff you see in cheap fast-fashion knockoffs.
The "Big Lebowski" Connection and the 90s Revival
Fashion moves in circles. You know this. By the late 80s, the Starsky and Hutch jumper was considered a joke—the kind of thing your uncool uncle wore to a family BBQ. Then the 90s happened. Suddenly, "ironic" fashion and vintage appreciation collided.
You can’t talk about this sweater without mentioning The Dude. While Jeff Bridges wears a Westerley cardigan by Pendleton in The Big Lebowski, the cultural DNA is identical. That movie reignited the love for heavy, patterned knitwear. It made it okay for men to wear "grandpa" clothes again. By the time the Starsky & Hutch movie came out in 2004 starring Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, the sweater was treated like a sacred relic. Stiller didn't just wear a version of it; he wore it as a symbol of the entire character's identity.
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It’s about comfort. It’s about a specific kind of effortless cool that says, "I didn't try hard to look this good, I just grabbed this off the chair."
The Cowichan Controversy
We have to talk about the cultural side of this. For a long time, these were just called "Starsky sweaters." However, fashion historians and indigenous advocates have pointed out that these designs are deeply rooted in the Coast Salish community of British Columbia. The Cowichan sweater is a distinct, protected tradition.
The sweaters used in the show were "Cowichan-inspired," which is a polite way of saying they were mass-produced versions of a traditional craft. When you’re looking to buy one today, there’s a massive difference between a $60 acrylic sweater from a costume shop and a genuine, hand-knitted wool piece from a Salish knitter. One is a costume; the other is a piece of art that will last three generations. Real Cowichans use undyed wool, which contains natural lanolin, making them water-resistant. Starsky probably could have used that water resistance during all those rainy night-shoots in the fictional Bay City.
How to Wear It Without Looking Like You’re in a Costume
Look. Most of us aren't 1970s detectives. If you walk into a bar wearing the full Starsky and Hutch jumper with flared jeans and a wig, people are going to ask where the Halloween party is. To pull it off in 2026, you have to modernize it.
Contrast is your friend.
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Pair the heavy knit with something slim. Dark selvedge denim or even tailored chinos. Avoid anything too "period correct" unless you’re actually on a film set. The sweater is the statement. Let it do the work. If you wear it over a simple white t-shirt or a charcoal turtleneck, it looks like a high-end heritage piece. If you wear it with a wide-collared polyester shirt, you’re basically a caricature.
And for the love of all things holy, don't tie the belt in a perfect bow. Knot it loosely or let it hang. The vibe is supposed to be "disheveled hero," not "gift-wrapped present."
Why It Persists
Why do we still care? It’s not just nostalgia. There’s a tactile quality to that era of television that we’ve lost. Today’s TV heroes wear tactical vests or $4,000 suits that look like they’ve been spray-painted on. There’s no texture. The Starsky and Hutch jumper has texture. You can practically feel the scratchy wool through the screen.
It represents a time when masculinity was a little more rugged and a little less manicured. It’s a piece of clothing that suggests a life lived—scuffles in alleys, coffee in paper cups, and long nights stakeouts. It’s functional.
What to Look for When Buying
If you’re hunting for one, you have three main paths:
- The Vintage Route: Search for "1970s Cowichan sweater" or "Mary Maxim knit." Mary Maxim was a company that sold the patterns people used to knit these at home. These are the most "authentic" in terms of feel.
- The High-End Heritage Route: Brands like Pendleton or Canadian heritage labels often release "Starsky-style" cardigans. They use better wool and have more consistent sizing.
- The Replica Route: Plenty of companies make direct screen-accurate copies. These are great for fans, but check the material. If it’s 100% acrylic, it’s going to pill, it won’t be warm, and it’ll look "flat" compared to the original.
The sweater is more than a piece of clothing. It's a character. It survived the 70s, survived the "uncool" 80s, was revived by the 90s, and now sits as a permanent icon of menswear. Whether you call it a jumper, a cardigan, or a Cowichan, the legacy of that cream-and-brown knit is as indestructible as Starsky's Torino.
Actionable Steps for the Collector
- Check the Weight: A real "Starsky" style jumper should weigh at least 2-3 pounds. If it’s light, it’s not the real deal.
- Verify the Pattern: The classic version features a dark "Greek key" or "zigzag" border. Ensure the pattern is knitted into the garment, not printed on top.
- Maintenance Tip: Never, ever hang a heavy wool sweater like this on a hanger. The weight will stretch the shoulders out until it looks like a misshapen sack. Fold it flat.
- Sizing: These are meant to be oversized. If you're between sizes, go up. It’s a "wrap," not a fitted shirt. It should feel like a blanket with sleeves.