You’re standing on the Bridge of Friends in the middle of a Tuesday afternoon, and the Spokane River is absolutely roaring beneath your feet. It’s loud. It’s misty. If you’ve spent any time on the Spokane Centennial Trail, you know exactly that feeling of being simultaneously in the heart of a city and completely lost in the basalt canyons of the Columbia Plateau. This isn't just a sidewalk or a paved path through a park. It’s 40 miles of history, asphalt, and Pine-scented air that connects the Idaho state line to the sagebrush-covered hills of Nine Mile Falls.
Honestly, it’s the spine of Spokane.
I’ve seen people try to tackle the whole thing in one go, which is a massive 80-mile round trip if you aren't shuttling cars. Most people don't do that. They pick a slice. Maybe they start at the Kendall Yard trailhead for a quick evening walk, or they head out to the Riverside State Park sections where the traffic noise fades into nothing but the sound of wind in the Ponderosa pines. It’s easy to take for granted if you live here, but for anyone visiting or new to the area, it’s basically the only way to understand how this city was built around the water.
The Layout You Actually Need to Know
The trail doesn't just meander; it follows the path of the river, and that means the terrain changes wildly. From the Idaho border to the city center, you’re looking at a mostly flat, sun-drenched stretch that cuts through the Spokane Valley. It’s open. It’s industrial in parts, residential in others. But once you hit the Gonzaga University area and move toward Riverfront Park, things get dense.
Then comes the "Dead Dog Hole" and the steep drops near the Bowl and Pitcher.
If you’re looking for a workout, the Western end near Riverside State Park is where the elevation starts to play games with your calves. It’s rugged. The basalt cliffs rise up on either side, and the trail hugs the edge of the gorge. If you’re just looking for a vibe, the downtown section through Riverfront Park—past the Pavilion and the Clocktower—is where you get the "postcard" version of Spokane. You've got the falls, the SkyRide overhead, and usually a few dozen marmots sunning themselves on the rocks near the Anthony’s Pier 66.
Breaking Down the Sections
The Idaho Gateway (Miles 0–12): This starts at the state line. It’s a straight shot, very popular with road cyclists who want to maintain a steady cadence without stopping for cross-traffic. You'll pass through Liberty Lake and the Valley. It’s functional. Not exactly "wild," but great for distance training.
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The Urban Core (Miles 12–25): This is the heart of it. You’ll roll through the campus of Gonzaga (watch out for students on longboards) and into the massive redevelopment of Riverfront Park. This is where the Spokane Centennial Trail feels the most like a community hub. You’ll see families with strollers, tourists taking selfies at the falls, and commuters on e-bikes headed to the South Hill.
The Wild West (Miles 25–40): Once you pass the Sandifur Bridge, things get quiet. Fast. You enter Riverside State Park. This is arguably the most beautiful part. The pavement stays, but the city disappears. You’re surrounded by over 10,000 acres of parkland. The trail ends officially at Sontag Park in Nine Mile Falls.
Why the Riverside State Park Section is Different
People often ask if the trail is safe or if it’s just a glorified city path. Out toward the Nine Mile end, it feels like a different world. You’re biking or walking through a geological history book. The "Great Floods" from Lake Missoula carved these canyons thousands of years ago, and you can see the evidence in the massive, rounded boulders scattered around.
The Bowl and Pitcher area is the crown jewel here. You can park your bike, walk across the iconic swinging bridge, and realize that you're only fifteen minutes from a Starbucks, yet you feel like you're in the deep wilderness. It’s a weird, cool contrast.
But here’s the thing: it can be lonely out there. If you’re heading out past the 30-mile marker, bring water. A lot of it. The "Inland Empire" sun is no joke in July. The pavement radiates heat, and while the pines provide some shade, there are long stretches where you are fully exposed to that high-desert glare.
The Politics and Maintenance of 40 Miles of Asphalt
Maintaining a trail this long isn't cheap or easy. It’s a massive logistical headache involving the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission, the City of Spokane, and the Friends of the Centennial Trail.
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The Friends of the Centennial Trail is a non-profit that basically keeps the dream alive. They advocate for repairs, organize cleanups, and push for the completion of "gaps" in the trail. For years, there were awkward spots where the trail just... ended, and you had to navigate city streets to find the next paved section. Most of those are gone now, thanks to some serious heavy lifting in the last decade.
There’s a common misconception that the trail is just for "recreation." In reality, it’s a critical piece of transportation infrastructure. With the rise of e-bikes, people are using the Spokane Centennial Trail to commute from the Valley into downtown without ever having to touch Sprague Avenue or I-90. It’s a game-changer for the city's carbon footprint, even if most people just see it as a place to walk their labradoodles.
Safety, Etiquette, and the "Spokane Style"
Look, every trail has its quirks. In Spokane, the number one rule is "stay to the right." Sounds simple. People still forget.
If you’re on a bike, yell "on your left" before you pass. If you don't, you're going to startle a hiker, and they might just jump right into your path. It happens all the time near the Mirabeau Point area where the trail gets narrow.
As for safety, it's generally a very safe trail. However, like any urban corridor, there are spots—especially near the downtown core—where you’ll see the reality of the city's homelessness crisis. Most people are just minding their own business, but it's something to be aware of if you're riding late at night. Stick to the daylight hours if you're alone, and you'll be fine. The Riverside State Park sections are virtually empty during the week, which is a blessing if you want peace, but just make sure someone knows where you are.
What about the Marmots?
You can't talk about the trail without mentioning the marmots. They are everywhere. These oversized ground squirrels are basically the unofficial mascots of the Spokane River. They live in the basalt rocks and will stare you down as you bike past. Do not feed them. They don’t need your granola bar, and they’ve become a bit too bold in recent years. Just enjoy the weirdness of a 10-pound rodent watching you do intervals.
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The Seasonal Shift
The trail doesn't close when the snow hits. Well, the pavement doesn't go anywhere, but it doesn't get plowed like a city street.
- Spring: The river is at its peak. The falls are terrifyingly powerful. The smell of damp earth and pine is incredible.
- Summer: It’s hot. Go early—like 6:00 AM early. The light hitting the basalt cliffs at dawn is worth the lost sleep.
- Fall: The Cottonwoods and Aspens along the river turn a brilliant gold. This is the best time for photography.
- Winter: It gets icy. If you’re going to run or walk, get some Yaktrax for your shoes. It’s quiet, stark, and beautiful, but the North-facing sections near the river stay frozen for a long time.
Navigating the Gaps and Practical Tips
If you’re planning a trip, don't just "wing it" at the trailhead.
First, check the Washington State Parks website for any closures. Because the trail hugs the river, sometimes spring flooding or maintenance on the dams (like the Upriver Dam) can force a detour.
Second, if you're parking at a trailhead within the State Park boundaries (basically anything West of the city), you need a Discover Pass. Don't try to skirt this. The rangers do check, and the fine is way more expensive than the $30 annual pass. Plus, that money actually goes back into keeping the asphalt from crumbling.
If you’re starting in the Valley, Mirabeau Point Park is a great "hub." It has plenty of parking, bathrooms that are usually open, and it puts you in a spot where you can go either direction for a meaningful distance without hitting too many stoplights.
Realities of the Trail Today
Is it perfect? No.
There are sections in the Spokane Valley where the asphalt is starting to root-heave, making for a bumpy ride if you’re on a thin-tired road bike. There are also parts where the trail is awkwardly close to the road. But the sheer scale of it—the fact that you can travel from the Idaho border all the way to a remote state park without ever sharing a lane with a car—is a massive feat of urban planning.
The Spokane Centennial Trail represents the best of the Inland Northwest. it’s a mix of industrial grit, collegiate energy, and raw, basalt-hewn wilderness. Whether you're a hardcore cyclist or just someone looking to clear their head by the water, it’s the place where the city breathes.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
- Download the map: Don't rely on cell service in the deep canyons of Riverside State Park. The Friends of the Centennial Trail website has a PDF map that shows every trailhead and bathroom.
- Grab a Discover Pass: If you plan on hitting the western half, buy it online or at a local REI before you head out.
- Start at Kendall Yards: If you only have one hour, park in Kendall Yards. Walk East toward downtown. You’ll get the best views of the Spokane Falls and the city skyline with the least amount of effort.
- Check the wind: If you’re biking, check the forecast. The "Spokane Wind" usually blows from West to East. If you start at the Idaho line and head West, you might be fighting a headwind the entire way. Smart riders often start at Nine Mile and let the wind push them toward Idaho.
- Hydrate: There are surprisingly few water fountains once you leave the downtown core. Carry more than you think you need, especially in the dry heat of July and August.