Big guns usually have a reputation for being violent, kick-heavy monsters that punish the shooter as much as the target. But the Smith and Wesson Model 25 is different. It’s a gentleman’s gun. If you’ve ever felt the smooth, rhythmic cycle of an N-frame Smith from the 1970s, you know exactly what I’m talking about. It doesn't bark like a .44 Magnum. It thumps.
Honestly, the Model 25 occupies a strange, beautiful corner of the firearms world. It was born from a desire to keep the legendary .45 ACP and .45 Colt cartridges alive in a swing-out cylinder format. Some people call it the "1955 Target." Others just call it the best-shooting revolver ever made.
It’s heavy. It’s polished. It’s accurate.
The Weird History of the 1955 Target
The Smith and Wesson Model 25 didn't just appear out of thin air. It evolved from the M1917, which was a "stop-gap" gun used during World War I because there weren't enough Colt 1911s to go around. Those early guns used half-moon clips to hold the rimless .45 ACP rounds in place. Fast forward to the mid-1950s, and Smith & Wesson decided to turn that combat heritage into a refined target machine.
They succeeded.
The original Model 25 (the Dash-0 and Dash-1) was a masterpiece of old-school machining. We’re talking about the days before CNC, when master gunsmiths at the Springfield factory hand-fitted the pawls and triggers. Elmer Keith, the father of the .44 Magnum, famously respected the Model 25, even though he was a die-hard fan of the more powerful Model 29. He knew that for pure target shooting, the .45 ACP had a balance that the .44 just couldn't touch.
But things got complicated when Smith & Wesson decided to chamber it in .45 Colt. This is where the story gets "kinda" messy for collectors.
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The Great Cylinder Throat Mystery
If you buy a vintage Smith and Wesson Model 25 in .45 Colt (often labeled the Model 25-5), you might run into a frustrating problem. It’s a well-documented issue that frustrated shooters for decades. Essentially, the cylinder throats on many 25-5 models were bored out too large.
Standard .45 Colt bullets are usually .452 or .454 inches. Many of these revolvers left the factory with throats measuring .456 or even .458.
Why does that matter?
Accuracy dies when the bullet doesn't fit the throat. The bullet "rattles" down the cylinder before hitting the forcing cone, leading to lead fouling and groups that look more like shotgun patterns. If you're looking at a used 25-5 at a gun show, bring a .452 lead bullet. Try to push it through the front of the cylinder. If it falls through with no resistance, you’ve found one of the "loose" ones. It’s not the end of the world, but it means you'll have to handload oversized cast bullets to get the accuracy this N-frame is capable of delivering.
Later production runs, specifically those after the mid-1980s, corrected this. Smith & Wesson tightened the tolerances, and those later guns shoot like lasers. It’s just one of those quirks you have to know if you’re hunting for a "pinned and recessed" classic.
Shooting the Model 25: A Different Kind of Recoil
Shooting a Smith and Wesson Model 25 feels like driving a 1960s Cadillac.
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The weight of the N-frame soaks up the recoil of the .45 ACP like it's nothing. Because the .45 ACP is a low-pressure round compared to modern magnums, the "flip" is more of a gentle push. You can spend an entire afternoon at the range with a Model 25 and leave without a sore wrist. That’s a rare thing in the world of big-bore revolvers.
Then there’s the trigger.
The "Target" triggers and hammers found on most Model 25s are wide and serrated. In single-action mode, the break is often compared to a glass rod snapping. There is zero creep. You think about the shot, and the hammer falls.
- Moon Clips: Using .45 ACP in a revolver requires moon clips. Some people hate them. I love them. They act as the world’s fastest speedloader. You drop six rounds in at once, and they all eject at once.
- The .45 Colt Version: This is the "Cowboy" version. It’s more versatile if you’re a handloader. You can load it with heavy hard-cast bullets for woods carry, though you shouldn't push it to "Ruger Only" pressure levels. The Smith isn't built for that.
- The Finish: Most vintage 25s have the "S&W Bright Blue" finish. It looks like a deep, dark pool of ink. Modern guns with their matte black coatings just don't have that soul.
Why the Model 25-2 is the Collector's Choice
If you're looking for the pinnacle of the line, it’s the 25-2. This was the dedicated .45 ACP target version. It usually came with a 6.5-inch barrel, though some 6-inch and 5-inch versions exist. This gun was a staple in Bullseye competition for years.
Collectors go crazy for the wooden "Presentation" cases that these guns often shipped in. They were lined with blue or red velvet. If you find a 25-2 with the original box, tools, and wax paper, you're looking at a serious investment. These guns have appreciated significantly in the last five years. People are realizing that we won't see this level of hand-fitting in mass production ever again.
Common Misconceptions About the N-Frame .45
A lot of guys think because the Smith and Wesson Model 25 is built on the same frame as the .44 Magnum (Model 29), it can handle the same pressures. That is a dangerous mistake.
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The cylinder walls on a Model 25 are thinner than those on a Model 29 because the .45 holes are bigger. There is less steel between the chambers. While the N-frame is strong, you shouldn't be trying to turn a Model 25 into a .454 Casull. Keep your loads within standard SAAMI specs.
Another myth is that you must use moon clips for the gun to fire. In most .45 ACP Model 25s, the chambers are headspaced on the case mouth, meaning the rounds will sit in the cylinder and fire without the clip. However, the extractor star won't have anything to grab onto, so you'll have to poke the empty casings out with a pencil or a cleaning rod. Just use the clips. It's easier.
How to Buy a Smith and Wesson Model 25 Today
Buying a 50-year-old revolver requires a bit of a "detective" mindset. You can't just trust a grainy photo on an auction site.
First, check the timing. Cock the hammer slowly. The cylinder should lock into place before the hammer reaches the full-cock notch. If there’s play or if it doesn't lock up tight, the hand might be worn.
Second, look at the sideplate screws. If the slots are mangled, it means a "basement gunsmith" has been inside the gun with a hardware-store screwdriver. That’s a massive red flag. You want a gun that has been left alone or serviced by a professional.
Finally, check the "dash" number. The number after the model (like 25-2 or 25-5) tells you the engineering revision. Generally, the lower the dash number, the more hand-fitting was involved, but the later numbers often have better metallurgy and more consistent dimensions.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Owner
If you’re serious about adding this legend to your safe, here is how you should proceed.
- Decide on your caliber first. If you want a target-grade range toy, go for the .45 ACP (Model 25-2). If you want a woods gun or a piece of Western heritage, hunt for the .45 Colt (Model 25-5).
- Verify the cylinder throats if you're buying a 25-5. Ask the seller for the measurement or use the "bullet drop test" mentioned earlier.
- Invest in quality moon clips. Cheap, thin clips will bend and cause the cylinder to bind. Brands like TK Custom make heavy-duty clips that change the whole experience.
- Avoid "bubba'd" guns. Don't buy a Model 25 that has been "tuned" by someone who didn't know what they were doing. A factory Smith trigger is already better than 95% of what’s on the market today.
- Clean it right. Use a real brass brush and a good solvent. Avoid overly abrasive polishes on that beautiful blue finish, or you'll rub right through it.
The Smith and Wesson Model 25 isn't just a tool for putting holes in paper. It’s a mechanical artifact from an era when "good enough" wasn't the standard. Whether it’s sitting in a velvet-lined box or riding in a leather holster at the range, it commands respect. It’s the ultimate expression of the big-bore revolver.