Walk down Fillmore Street and you might miss it if you aren't listening. It isn't a cathedral. It doesn’t have those massive, cold stone buttresses or a silent, dusty nave. Instead, the Saint John Coltrane Church sounds like a heartbeat. Specifically, a heartbeat syncopated in 4/4 time, screaming through a tenor saxophone.
People think of "church" and they think of pews and quiet contemplation. This is different. This is the "A Love Supreme" kind of prayer.
Most folks who stumble upon the African Orthodox Church of the Jurisdiction of the West—the formal name for this institution—are looking for a tourist attraction or a jazz club. They’re usually surprised to find a legit, functioning liturgical body that views John Coltrane not just as a musician, but as a literal saint. It sounds wild to the uninitiated. But if you spend five minutes talking to Archbishop Franzo King, you realize this isn't some quirky performance art. It’s a deeply felt theology of sound.
The Night Everything Changed for Franzo King
Let’s go back to 1965. Franzo King and his wife, Ohnedaruth, went to the Jazz Workshop in San Francisco. They saw John Coltrane play. King describes it as a "sound baptism." It wasn't just that Coltrane was good at his instrument—everyone knew he was a virtuoso. It was the fact that the music felt like it was ripping through the fabric of the physical world to touch something divine.
When Coltrane died in 1967, the Kings didn't just mourn a celebrity. They started the Yardbird Temple.
Eventually, they merged with the African Orthodox Church, which allowed them to officially canonize Coltrane. You’ve probably seen the icons if you’ve Googled them. There’s a famous one by Mark Dukes showing Coltrane with a halo, holding a scroll, flames leaping from his saxophone. It’s striking. It’s beautiful. And for the members of the Saint John Coltrane Church, it is an accurate representation of a man who used melody to seek the face of God.
Is it Jazz or is it Worship?
Honestly, it’s both. You can’t really separate them here.
In a typical Sunday service, you aren't going to hear "Amazing Grace" played on a wheezing organ. You’re going to hear a three-hour jam session based on the movements of A Love Supreme. The liturgy is built around the idea that music is a universal language that can bypass the ego.
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They use the "Coltrane Liturgy."
It’s loud. It’s sweaty. It’s communal.
The church has faced some real-world struggles, though. They’ve been evicted more than once. Gentrification in San Francisco is a beast that doesn't care much for spiritual legacies or the "Harlem of the West" history of the Fillmore District. They moved from their longtime home on Fillmore to a space on Turk Street, and later to Japantown. It’s been a nomadic existence, which is kind of ironic for a church centered on a man whose music was about finding a permanent spiritual home.
The Theology of the Notes
Why Coltrane? Why not Miles Davis or Charlie Parker?
Well, Parker is actually part of their lineage (hence the "Yardbird Temple" origins), but Coltrane is the one who wrote the roadmap. In 1957, Coltrane had a spiritual awakening that helped him kick a heroin addiction. He wrote about it in the liner notes of A Love Supreme. He basically told the world that his music was an attempt to make listeners happy and to help them find a spiritual path.
The church takes this literally. They see his 1964 masterpiece as a prayer. If you look at the sheet music for the fourth movement, "Psalm," Coltrane is actually "playing" the words of a poem he wrote to God. Every note corresponds to a syllable.
- Acknowledgement
- Resolution
- Pursuance
- Psalm
These aren't just track titles to the congregation. They are steps in a redemptive process. The church teaches that by engaging with this music, you aren't just a spectator. You’re a participant in your own liberation.
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Fighting for a Place in the Modern City
It’s tough to be a radical, black-led, jazz-based church in one of the most expensive cities on the planet. The Saint John Coltrane Church has spent years fighting for its right to exist in the public square.
They aren't just about the music. They do food programs. They do community outreach. They advocate for social justice, viewing Coltrane’s music as an inherently political statement against oppression. When you listen to "Alabama," a song Coltrane wrote after the 16th Street Baptist Church bombing in 1963, you realize that jazz has always been a vessel for grief and resistance.
Some critics over the years have called it a cult. Others say it’s sacrilegious to elevate a jazz musician to sainthood. The church's response is usually pretty straightforward: look at the fruits of the work. If the music leads people toward a cleaner life, a more loving disposition, and a deeper connection to their neighbors, how is that not the work of a saint?
The African Orthodox Church hierarchy eventually agreed, though there was a period of friction regarding how much "Coltrane" was too much for a Christian service. They found a middle ground. Today, the church stands as a unique synthesis of global Christianity and African American musical tradition.
What You Should Know Before You Go
If you’re planning to visit, don't show up expecting a quiet sit-down affair where you can check your phone. It doesn’t work like that.
- Bring your instrument. Seriously. They often invite people to "make a joyful noise." Even if you aren't a pro, the spirit of the place is about participation.
- It’s long. This isn't a 45-minute "in and out" service. The music takes time to build. The improvisation is the sermon.
- The icons are for sale. Well, prints of them are. Purchasing one is one of the best ways to support their rent fund.
- Don't call it a show. It’s a service. Treat it with the same respect you’d give any other house of worship, even if someone is ripping a frantic solo three feet from your face.
The church is currently located in the Western Addition/Japantown area, but it’s always wise to check their social media or website before heading out. They’ve had to be flexible to survive.
Why It Still Matters in 2026
We live in a world that feels increasingly fragmented and, frankly, a bit soulless at times. Everything is digital, everything is curated, and everything is for sale. The Saint John Coltrane Church feels like a thumb in the eye of that entire vibe.
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It’s raw.
It’s tactile.
It reminds us that art isn't just something we consume; it’s something that can save us. Whether you’re a believer in the traditional sense or just someone who thinks Giant Steps is the greatest feat of human intellect in the 20th century, there’s something vital about this place. It preserves a specific, beautiful slice of San Francisco history that is rapidly disappearing.
Practical Steps for Supporting the Legacy
If you want to dive deeper into what the Saint John Coltrane Church represents, start by listening to A Love Supreme with the lyrics/poem in your hand. Most people have heard the album, but few have "read" it as a religious text. It changes the experience entirely.
Beyond the music, consider looking into the history of the Fillmore District. Understanding the "Urban Renewal" (which many locals called "Urban Removal") of the 1960s and 70s provides the necessary context for why this church’s survival is such a miracle.
You can also donate directly to their building fund via their official website. They are constantly working toward a permanent home that can house their archives and provide a stable space for their community programs. Supporting them is a way of ensuring that the "sound of spirits" doesn't get drowned out by the noise of luxury condos and tech campuses.
Visit on a Sunday. Listen to the horns. Let the dissonance wash over you until it starts to sound like harmony. That’s where the magic happens. It’s not about the notes; it’s about the space between them. That is where they find Saint John.