Walk out of Embankment station, turn right, and look up. You’ll see it. This massive, sprawling French Renaissance chateau basically looks like it was plucked out of the Loire Valley and dropped right onto the banks of the Thames. It's The Royal Horseguards Hotel & One Whitehall Place London. Honestly, most people walk right past the entrance on Whitehall Court because it looks so private—and for a long time, it literally was.
Stepping inside feels like a glitch in the matrix of modern London. One minute you’re dodging commuters and red buses, and the next, you’re standing in a marble-clad lobby where the air smells like expensive bergamot and history. It’s heavy. It’s grand. It’s also kinda intimidating if you don't know the backstory.
Back in the late 1800s, this place wasn't even a hotel. It was built as a luxury apartment block, the brainchild of a guy named Jabez Balfour. He wanted it to be the most prestigious address in the world. Spoiler: it didn't go well for him (he ended up in prison), but his ambition left us with one of the most architecturally insane buildings in the UK.
The Spy History Nobody Really Talks About
Most hotels brag about their pillows. This place brags about its secret tunnels. During World War I, the building served as the headquarters for the Secret Intelligence Service (MI6). Sir Mansfield Smith-Cumming, the first "C" (the real-life inspiration for the "M" character in James Bond), had his office here.
You can still feel that "hush-hush" vibe in the hallways. Rumor has it there were tunnels connecting the building directly to the Ministry of Defence and other government offices nearby. While most of those are sealed off now, the sheer scale of the architecture—high ceilings, thick walls, and tucked-away corners—makes you realize why it was the perfect spot for spies.
- The National Liberal Club still occupies part of the building.
- You’ll find original Victorian tiling in the basement areas.
- The Gladstone Library holds 30,000 books, but they aren't just for show; they’re part of the aesthetic of one of the most beautiful event spaces in Europe.
It’s not just a place to sleep. It’s a fortress of British history that’s managed to stay relevant without becoming a dusty museum.
One Whitehall Place: The Architectural Flex
Connected to the hotel is One Whitehall Place London. If the hotel is the cozy (well, as cozy as a palace can be) residence, One Whitehall Place is the showstopper. This is where you go for those "big" moments.
Think about the Gladstone Library. It’s named after William Gladstone, the former Prime Minister. The room is lined from floor to ceiling with books, reachable by these gorgeous spiral staircases. It’s the kind of room that makes you want to start a revolution or write a masterpiece. Or just get married. It’s basically the gold standard for London weddings.
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Then there’s the Reading and Writing Room. The views of the London Eye and the Thames from here are arguably some of the best in the city because you’re at just the right height to see over the trees but close enough to feel the water. The ceiling heights are dizzying. We’re talking 30-plus feet of intricate plasterwork and massive chandeliers.
What It’s Actually Like to Stay Here
Let's get real for a second. Sometimes these old heritage hotels can feel a bit... stuffy. Or worse, they look great in photos but have terrible Wi-Fi and plumbing that sounds like a haunted house.
The Royal Horseguards Hotel & One Whitehall Place London manages to avoid most of those traps. They’ve modernized where it matters. The rooms aren't ultra-minimalist—they shouldn't be—but they have the tech you need.
The Tower Suite is the one everyone wants. It’s split-level and gives you a 270-degree view of the city. You can literally watch the changing of the guard or look down at the boats on the river while you’re eating breakfast in your robe. It’s peak London.
The Food Situation
You’ve got One Twenty One Two. It sounds like a secret code, but it’s actually a nod to the hotel’s history (and Scotland Yard's famous telephone number). The food is classic British with a modern twist.
Don't skip the Afternoon Tea. Everyone goes to The Ritz or The Savoy, and sure, those are great. But the tea at Royal Horseguards is served in the lounge or on the terrace, and it feels way less like a tourist assembly line. You can actually hear yourself think. The scones are warm, the clotted cream is thick, and the tea selection is legit.
Why Location Is The Secret Weapon
Whitehall is weird. By day, it’s the engine room of the British government. You’ve got 10 Downing Street just a stone’s throw away. By night, it gets surprisingly quiet.
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Staying at The Royal Horseguards Hotel & One Whitehall Place London puts you in this strange bubble of calm right in the middle of the chaos.
- You’re five minutes from Trafalgar Square.
- You’re ten minutes from Covent Garden.
- You’re right across the bridge from the Southbank.
But because the hotel is tucked down towards the river, you don't get the street noise of the West End. It’s the ultimate "hide in plain sight" location.
Is It Worth the Price Tag?
London isn't cheap. Never has been. You’re paying for the square footage and the heritage here. If you want a "trendy" hotel with neon lights and a DJ in the lobby, this isn't it. This is for people who want to feel like they’ve stepped back into a version of London that’s grand, solid, and slightly mysterious.
There’s a nuance to the service here, too. It’s that old-school British "don't worry, we've got it" attitude. It’s helpful without being overbearing.
The biggest misconception is that it’s only for suits and politicians. While you’ll definitely see people in expensive wool coats looking very serious, it’s actually a very welcoming spot for families and travelers who just appreciate good architecture.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
If you're planning to book or just visit for a drink, here’s how to do it right.
Request a River View Room. It’s worth the extra cost. Looking out at the Thames at 2:00 AM when the city is glowing is a core memory kind of experience.
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Check the Event Schedule. Because One Whitehall Place is such a popular venue, some of the most beautiful rooms might be closed for private functions. If you want to see the Gladstone Library, call ahead and ask when it’s free for a quick peek.
Explore the Staircase. The freestanding marble staircase in One Whitehall Place is the largest of its kind in the world. Walk up it. Don't just take the lift. You need to see the way the light hits the stone.
Join the DISCOVERY Loyalty Program. Since the hotel is part of the Guoman collection, you can often get better rates or late check-outs by being part of their loyalty network.
Walk to St. James’s Park. It’s a short stroll away. Get some coffee, walk through the park toward Buckingham Palace, and realize you’re staying in the literal heart of the empire.
Staying at The Royal Horseguards Hotel & One Whitehall Place London isn't just about a bed for the night. It’s about being part of a story that’s been unfolding since 1884. It’s big, it’s bold, and it’s unapologetically British.
To get the most out of your stay, book directly through the hotel website to ensure you get specific room requests honored, especially regarding those historic river views. If you are just visiting, aim for a mid-week afternoon tea to enjoy the Gladstone Library's atmosphere without the weekend crowds. For those organizing an event, prioritize a site visit at sunset; the way the light filters through the Victorian windows in One Whitehall Place is something no brochure can accurately capture.