If you’ve ever wandered around the neon-soaked streets of Tsim Sha Tsui East, you’ve seen it. That massive, somewhat understated glass structure standing tall since 1981. It doesn’t scream for attention like some of the flashy new boutique spots opening up in West Kowloon, but The Royal Garden Hotel Hong Kong has a secret weapon that keeps locals coming back decades after the ribbon was first cut.
It’s the food. Honestly, it's mostly about the food.
Most people booking a room in Hong Kong are looking for that classic Victoria Harbour view, and sure, this place has that from the rooftop. But the real soul of this hotel lives in its 110-foot garden atrium. It’s a bit of a time capsule. You step off the humid Kowloon sidewalk and suddenly you’re in this soaring, climate-controlled indoor garden with glass elevators gliding up and down. It feels very "high-end 80s glam," but in a way that actually works because they’ve maintained it meticulously.
The Michelin Star Elephant in the Room
Let’s talk about Dong Lai Shun. If you haven't heard of it, you're missing out on what is arguably the most famous mutton hot pot in the city. Originally a legendary brand from Beijing dating back to 1903, the branch at The Royal Garden Hotel Hong Kong became a culinary pilgrimage site. They use paper-thin slices of mutton that literally melt if you blink too fast.
But here is what most travel bloggers won't tell you: it’s not just about the hot pot. Their "Mutton Jiaozi" and the shredded mutton with sesame pockets are the real MVPs. It’s heavy. It’s rich. You’ll probably need a long walk along the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade afterward just to feel human again.
Then there’s Sabatini Ristorante Italiano. This isn't your standard "hotel Italian." It’s a direct descendant of the original Sabatini in Rome. The decor is incredibly rustic—think hand-painted tiles and heavy timber beams. It feels like a cozy Italian villa shoved into the middle of a vertical Asian metropolis. The linguine with scampi is legendary here, mostly because they don't mess with the recipe. They know what works.
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That Rooftop Sky Pool
Hong Kong gets hot. Not just "sunny day" hot, but "why is my shirt sticking to my soul" hot.
The Royal Garden’s rooftop, known as the Sky Club, is a legitimate sanctuary. They have a Mediterranean-style 25-meter swimming pool that is heated during the few weeks of actual "winter" we get. What makes it special isn't just the water; it’s the fact that you’re swimming while looking at the ICC and IFC skyscrapers across the water.
You’ve got the gym, the sauna, and the massage rooms right there. It’s a complete contrast to the chaotic energy of the streets downstairs. If you’re staying here, go up there at sunset. The way the light hits the harbor while the city starts to flicker on is... well, it’s why people move to Hong Kong in the first place.
The Rooms: Modernity vs. Heritage
You have to be a little careful with room selection. Since the hotel has been around for a while, they’ve gone through various cycles of renovation.
The "Crown" and "Sky" rooms are the ones you want. They’ve been updated with a much sleeker, more contemporary aesthetic—lots of muted tones, high-quality linens, and smart lighting. If you end up in one of the older, unrenovated rooms, it might feel a bit 90s. Clean, sure, but a bit dated.
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Why the Location is Kinda Perfect (and Kinda Not)
Tsim Sha Tsui East is an interesting beast. It’s slightly removed from the absolute madness of Nathan Road and the Chungking Mansions area.
- Pro: It’s quieter. You can actually breathe.
- Pro: It’s right next to the Science Museum and History Museum.
- Con: It’s a slightly longer walk to the main MTR lines, though the East Tsim Sha Tsui station is close enough.
Honestly, the walk is fine. You’re right on the waterfront. You can stroll all the way to the Star Ferry terminal in about 15 minutes, passing the Avenue of Stars along the way. It’s one of the best walks in the world, especially at 8:00 PM when the "Symphony of Lights" show starts.
The Fine Art of the Butterfly Cookie
We cannot talk about The Royal Garden Hotel Hong Kong without mentioning the Fine Foods shop. People in Hong Kong are obsessed with their "Palmier" cookies (butterfly cookies).
There are literal queues for these things.
They are incredibly buttery, flaky, and coated in just enough sugar to make them addictive. If you’re staying at the hotel, you’ll see people leaving with stacks of these gold-colored tins to take back as souvenirs. Pro tip: if you want the original flavor, buy them early in the day because they do sell out, despite the fact that the bakery works overtime.
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What Most People Get Wrong About the Price
People see "5-star hotel in TST" and assume it's going to cost the same as the Peninsula or the Rosewood. It doesn’t.
Because it’s a homegrown brand and not part of a massive global chain like Marriott or Hilton, you can often find some pretty wild deals. Especially during the mid-week "shoulder" periods. You’re getting a 5-star experience with Michelin-recognized dining for significantly less than what you’d pay three blocks over at the waterfront mega-hotels.
It’s basically a value play for people who know their way around Hong Kong. You’re trading a brand-name logo for better food and a cooler atrium.
Real Insider Tips for Your Stay
Don't just stick to the hotel restaurants. While the hotel food is top-tier, Tsim Sha Tsui East is a hub for "Dai Pai Dongs" (open-air food stalls) and small local bars.
- Check the Atrium schedule: Sometimes they have live music (like a harpist or pianist) performing in the afternoon. Sitting there with a coffee while the music echoes up through the floors is a vibe you can't get anywhere else.
- The Pillow Menu: They actually have a legitimate pillow menu. If the standard one is too soft, ask for the buckwheat or the contoured ones. It makes a huge difference.
- The Gym is actually good: Most hotel gyms are an afterthought with one broken treadmill. This one is part of the Sky Club and is actually functional for people who train.
- Avoid the morning rush: The breakfast buffet at The Greenery is massive, but it gets packed around 9:00 AM. Go at 7:30 AM if you want to eat your laksa in peace.
Actionable Steps for Booking
If you’re planning a trip, don’t just book the first "Superior Room" you see on a discount site.
- Call or email the hotel directly to ask if the room you are booking has been part of the recent renovation cycle. Specifically, ask for a "newly renovated" unit.
- Book a table at Dong Lai Shun at least two weeks in advance if you’re visiting during a weekend or holiday. It is perpetually full of locals who don't even stay at the hotel.
- Join the "Royal Garden Rewards" program. It's free, and it usually gets you a discount at the restaurants, which adds up fast if you’re hitting the fine dining spots.
- Factor in the airport express. Take the train to Kowloon Station, then catch a taxi or the K3 shuttle. It’s much faster than sitting in Cross-Harbour Tunnel traffic.
The Royal Garden isn't the newest kid on the block, and it isn't trying to be. It's a reliable, food-centric powerhouse that offers a slice of "Old Hong Kong" luxury without the pretentious price tag. Whether you're there for the mutton hot pot or the rooftop pool, it’s a solid choice for anyone who wants to be in the heart of Kowloon.