The year was 1985. Peter Moore had just designed a shoe that would effectively change the world, though nobody really knew it yet. While the "Bred" and "Chicago" colorways were busy getting banned or making history on the court, a quieter, moodier sibling was waiting in the wings. The Royal Air Jordan 1. It didn't have the "devil's colors" of the Chicago Bulls. It wasn't flashy in a loud, aggressive way. It was just... cool.
Black and blue. That’s it.
Honestly, the Royal is the connoisseur’s Jordan. If the Bred is the blockbuster movie everyone sees, the Royal is the indie classic that the director actually prefers. It's a shoe that feels more at home on a street corner in Brooklyn or a terrace in London than it does on a hardwood floor in Illinois. And yet, its history is deeply intertwined with Michael Jordan’s early ascent. You've probably seen the famous photo. MJ, standing on a flight deck, soaring toward a hoop with the sunset behind him. He wasn't wearing the red ones. He was wearing the Royals.
The Mystery of the 1985 Original
People obsess over the "OG" 1985 Royal for a reason. It wasn't just the color; it was the materials. The leather was thick. It had a certain sheen to it that modern retros struggle to replicate perfectly. Back then, Nike wasn't a global behemoth yet. They were a running company trying to figure out basketball.
There is a weird myth that Michael Jordan never wore the Royal Air Jordan 1 in an actual NBA game. For a long time, collectors debated this tirelessly. While there is no clear, high-definition game footage of him rocking them against the Celtics or the Knicks, the promotional imagery did all the heavy lifting for the brand. That single poster of him on the tarmac did more for the Royal's legacy than a 40-point game ever could. It gave the shoe an aura of mystery. It was the "off-court" hero.
The blue used on the original is technically "Varsity Royal." It’s deep. It’s saturated. It doesn't lean too purple, and it certainly isn't light. When you compare an original '85 to the 2001 or 2017 retros, you notice the "wings" logo is positioned slightly differently. The swoosh is larger, more aggressive. It’s these tiny, nerdy details that keep the resale price of an original pair in the thousands of dollars.
Why Everyone Fights Over the Retros
Nike didn't bring the Royal back for a long time. They made us wait.
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The 2001 retro was a landmark moment. It came in a silver box. It had a little metal keychain. Most importantly, it used a leather that was almost too soft—a tumbled texture that some purists actually hated because it didn't match the smooth finish of the '85. But man, they aged beautifully. If you find a pair of 2001 Royals today, the blue has likely faded into a gorgeous, chalky hue.
Then came 2013. This was a weird era for Jordan Brand. The shape was a bit "off"—the tongue was short, and the height was slightly lower than the original high-top specs. But the hype was nuclear. This was right as the "sneakerhead" culture was exploding on Instagram. You couldn't touch a pair. Prices on the secondary market shot up instantly. It proved that the Royal Air Jordan 1 wasn't just a nostalgia trip; it was a modern status symbol.
The 2017 Masterpiece
Most collectors agree that the 2017 release is the gold standard for modern retros. Jordan Brand finally got the shape right. They used a tumbled leather on the blue panels—the toe box, the heel, and the swoosh—while keeping the black leather smooth. It felt premium. It felt like something you could actually wear every day without the paint cracking after three steps.
I remember standing in line for these. The energy was different. It wasn't just kids; it was guys in their 40s who remembered seeing the posters in their bedrooms as teens. The Royal has that cross-generational pull. It's sophisticated. You can wear it with black jeans and a leather jacket and not look like you're trying too hard to be a teenager.
The Reimagined Controversy
In late 2023, Jordan Brand did something that pissed a lot of people off. They released the "Royal Reimagined."
Instead of the traditional leather, they covered the entire shoe in suede. Everything. The black, the blue—all fuzzy. The "Reimagined" series had been a massive hit with the "Lost and Found" Chicagos, which used cracked leather to look vintage. But the suede Royals? People were split. Some loved the soft, luxurious feel. Others felt like Nike was messing with a masterpiece. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," was the general sentiment on Reddit and Twitter.
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The result? For the first time in years, a Royal Air Jordan 1 actually sat on shelves. You could walk into a Foot Locker and just... buy them. In a way, it was a blessing for people who just wanted a blue and black Jordan 1 to wear to the ground. But for the "hypebeasts," the lack of leather meant a lack of soul. It’s a fascinating case study in how material choice can completely change the market value of an identical colorway.
How to Tell if Yours are Real
Look, the fake market for the Royal Air Jordan 1 is insane. Some of the "unauthorized authentic" pairs coming out of Putian are scary good. But there are always tells.
First, check the "hourglass" shape. If you look at the shoe from the back, it should be wide at the top, narrow at the ankle, and wide again at the bottom. Fakes often look like straight bricks. They lack that curve.
Second, the scent. Seriously. Real Nikes have a specific, chemical-yet-clean smell. Fakes often smell like industrial glue or cheap spray paint. It sounds crazy, but your nose is often the best legit-check tool you have.
Third, the "Wings" logo. On a real pair, the embossing is deep. You can feel the ridges. On many knockoffs, it looks like it was just stamped on the surface without any real pressure. Also, look at the "R" and the "D" in "Jordan." On a real pair, they should touch at the bottom.
Styling the Royal Without Looking Like a TikToker
The beauty of the Royal is its versatility. Because it’s black and blue, it functions almost like a neutral.
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- The New York Look: All black everything. Black slim-tapered denim, a black hoodie, and a black bomber jacket. Let the blue on the shoes do all the talking.
- The Vintage Vibe: Light wash "dad" jeans (think Levi's 501s) and a grey heather sweatshirt. This leans into the 80s heritage without looking like a costume.
- The Summer Pivot: Believe it or not, these work with shorts, but keep the socks simple. White or black crew socks. No "no-show" socks—that's a crime against humanity when wearing high-tops.
Avoid those "tapered joggers" with the elastic cuffs that were popular in 2015. They make the shoes look clunky and oversized. You want the hem of your pants to either sit right on top of the collar or have a slight crop.
The Cultural Weight of Blue
Why does blue work so well on a basketball shoe? In the 80s, basketball shoes were almost exclusively white with a single team color. The Royal Air Jordan 1 broke that mold by using black as the base. It was moody. It was aggressive.
In many ways, the Royal paved the way for the "lifestyle" sneaker. It proved that you didn't need to be a fan of a specific team to want a shoe. You just had to like the aesthetic. Fragment Design’s Hiroshi Fujiwara famously used the Royal color blocking for his legendary collaboration, which is now one of the most expensive Jordans on earth. He knew that the black/blue/white combo was the peak of sneaker design.
Is it Worth the Investment?
If you're looking at the Royal Air Jordan 1 as an investment, the 2017 pair is your safest bet. It holds its value because it’s the most "correct" version of the shoe we’ve had in twenty years. The 1985 originals are for museum pieces—don't try to wear them, or the soles will crumble into dust like a Thanos snap.
The "Reimagined" suede pairs are actually a great "buy and hold" candidate precisely because people hate them right now. History shows that when the community hates a shoe at launch, they often realize they were wrong five years later when they can't find a clean pair.
What to Do Next
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on a pair, stop browsing the sketchy "clearance" sites that pop up on Google ads. They are scams. Every single one of them.
- Check Verified Marketplaces: Use platforms like GOAT, StockX, or eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee service. Yes, you’ll pay a premium, but you won't end up with a plastic shoe that smells like a tire fire.
- Inspect the Leather: If you’re buying used, look for "star loss" on the toe of the sole. If the tiny stars are worn flat, those shoes have seen some serious mileage.
- Size Up (Maybe): Jordan 1s can be narrow. If you have wide feet, going up half a size will save your pinky toes from a lot of misery, especially during the break-in period.
- Protect the Suede: If you went with the Reimagined suede version, buy a water-repellent spray immediately. Suede and rain are mortal enemies. One puddle will ruin your day.
The Royal isn't just a sneaker. It's a 40-year-old piece of industrial design that still looks futuristic. Whether you’re a collector or just someone who wants one good pair of shoes, the Royal belongs in the rotation. It’s the king for a reason. Once you lace them up and see that blue pop against the black leather, you'll get it. It’s that simple.