Walk outside and look at your grass. If you’re like most people, you’ve got a standard gas or electric rotary mower sitting in the garage. It’s fine. It works. But if you’ve ever looked at a golf course fairway or a Major League baseball diamond and wondered why your lawn looks like a ragged field of weeds by comparison, the answer isn't just "more fertilizer." It’s the tool. Specifically, it’s the reel to reel mower. Honestly, once you see the difference in how these things actually work, you’ll realize we’ve basically been tearing our grass apart for decades instead of cutting it.
The Brutal Truth About Your Current Mower
Most of us use rotary mowers. These machines use a single blade spinning at high speeds—essentially a helicopter blade for your yard. It doesn't "cut" the grass so much as it bludgeons it. Think of a machete swinging at a blade of grass. It hacks it off, leaving a frayed, brown edge at the tip. This is why your lawn looks slightly tan or "dusty" a day after you mow. That’s plant trauma.
The reel to reel mower (often just called a reel mower) is a completely different beast. It’s a cylinder of multiple curved blades that rotate vertically. As they spin, they trap the grass against a stationary "bedknife" at the bottom. It works exactly like a pair of scissors. Clean. Sharp. Precise. Because the cut is so clean, the grass heals almost instantly, it stays greener, and it’s much less susceptible to diseases like dollar spot or brown patch.
The Math of the Cut
When you use a rotary, you're usually limited to a height of about two to four inches. Try to go lower, and you'll scalp the uneven ground because the blade is wide and flat. Reel mowers are different. Because the cutting action happens across a narrow window at the front of the machine, you can drop that height down to half an inch or even lower without destroying the turf.
This creates "tillering." When you cut grass low and clean, the plant realizes it can't grow up, so it grows out. It gets thicker. It forms a carpet. This is how you get that "squishy" feeling under your feet.
Manual vs. Powered: Which One Actually Makes Sense?
You probably associate the reel to reel mower with your grandfather sweating through a t-shirt in 1954. Those old heavy cast-iron push mowers were a workout. Modern manual reels from brands like Fiskars or American Lawn Mower Company are surprisingly light, but let’s be real: they have limits.
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If you have more than a quarter-acre, a manual push reel is going to turn you into a marathon runner. It's not just the effort; it's the "washboarding." If you walk too slowly or the grass is too thick, a manual reel might skip. That’s why the high-end enthusiasts go for gas or battery-powered cylinder mowers. Companies like California Trimmer, McLane, or the high-end Allett mowers from the UK have changed the game. These aren't just for people who want a workout; they're for people who want a pristine aesthetic.
Don't Buy One if Your Yard is a Mess
Here is something the manufacturers won't tell you: a reel mower hates sticks. It hates rocks. It absolutely loathes pinecones. If a rotary mower hits a small twig, it mulches it into dust. If a reel to reel mower hits a twig, the blades jam instantly. You’ll be leaning over, clearing a jam every thirty seconds if your yard isn't clean. You sort of have to be a "lawn person" to own one. You need to rake. You need to level your soil. If your yard has ruts and bumps, a reel mower will "scalp" the high spots and leave the low spots long. It demands a flat surface.
Maintenance is a Different Ballgame
You can sharpen a rotary blade with a hand file and a YouTube video in ten minutes. A reel mower requires "backlapping." This involves applying a gritty grinding paste to the blades and spinning them in reverse to hone the edge against the bedknife. It’s not necessarily hard, but it’s a specific skill.
Expert turf managers like those at the Golf Course Superintendents Association of America (GCSAA) will tell you that the "paper test" is the gold standard. A well-adjusted reel to reel mower should be able to slice a thin piece of notebook paper cleanly across the entire length of the blade. If it folds the paper, it’s tearing your grass.
The Cost Factor
Let’s talk money. A decent rotary mower at a big-box store might run you $400. A high-quality powered reel mower? You’re looking at $1,500 to $5,000. It’s a massive jump. Even the manual ones are more expensive than their basic rotary counterparts. You’re paying for the complexity of the cylinder and the precision of the build.
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But there’s a trade-off. A high-quality reel mower, if maintained, can literally last forty years. There are people still using Locke mowers from the 1970s because they are built like tanks. Most modern plastic rotaries are lucky to see a decade.
The "Green" Benefit (Beyond the Color)
Manual reel mowers are obviously the peak of eco-friendly gardening. Zero emissions, zero noise. You can mow at 6:00 AM on a Sunday and your neighbors won't even know you're out there. It’s weirdly therapeutic. The "snip-snip-snip" sound is much better than the roar of a combustion engine.
Even the powered versions are becoming more efficient. Lithium-ion technology has finally caught up to the reel world. Brands like Ryobi and EGO have experimented, but the real pros look at companies like Swardman. They make battery-powered reel mowers that are basically the Teslas of the lawn world—whisper quiet, incredibly precise, and fully customizable with interchangeable cartridges for verticutting or dethatching.
Common Misconceptions and Failures
One thing people get wrong constantly is thinking they can just switch to a reel to reel mower overnight and have a perfect lawn. If your lawn is currently five inches tall and full of tall fescue, a reel mower will just knock the grass over instead of cutting it. Reel mowers work best on "creeping" grasses—Bermuda, Zoysia, or Kentucky Bluegrass.
You also have to mow more often. Because you’re cutting the grass shorter, you have to follow the "one-third rule." Never cut off more than a third of the grass blade at once. If you're maintaining a lawn at one inch, you need to be out there every two or three days during the peak growing season. It’s a commitment.
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Why Your Neighbors Will Be Jealous
The striping. Oh, the striping. Because reel mowers usually have a heavy roller in the back to help stay level, they produce those deep, dark stadium stripes naturally. A rotary mower tries to mimic this with a rubber flap, but it’s not the same. The roller on a reel mower pushes the grass down firmly, reflecting the light differently and giving you that professional look without any extra "striping kits."
Actionable Steps for the Transition
If you're ready to make the jump to a reel to reel mower, don't just go out and buy the first one you see. Start by leveling your lawn. Buy a couple of cubic yards of masonry sand and spread it out to fill in the low spots. If you don't do this, the reel mower will frustrate you.
Next, check your grass type. If you have St. Augustine or thick, clumpy tall fescue, a manual reel mower will be a nightmare to push. Stick to a powered version or stay with a high-quality rotary.
Finally, find a local shop that actually knows how to grind reels. Your average lawnmower repair guy might not have the specialized equipment to "spin grind" a cylinder. You need someone who services golf course equipment or high-end residential reels.
Immediate Next Steps:
- Measure your lawn's flatness: Take a 4-foot level or a straight board and drag it across your yard. If you see gaps more than an inch deep, you need to top-dress with sand before buying a reel.
- Test the manual route: If your yard is under 2,000 square feet, buy a 7-blade or 10-blade manual mower. The more blades, the smoother the cut.
- Learn the "Backlap": Buy a small tub of 120-grit valve grinding compound. Even if you don't use it yet, having it in the garage will remind you that this tool requires a different level of care.
- Identify your turf: Use a free app like PictureThis to confirm you have a grass species that actually thrives under the low-cut regime of a reel mower.
Switching to a reel to reel mower isn't just a purchase; it's a hobby. It's for the person who wants to be the "lawn guy" or "lawn gal" of the neighborhood. It’s more work, more money, and more maintenance—but the first time you walk across a half-inch thick carpet of Bermuda that looks like a putting green, you’ll never be able to go back to a standard mower again.