If you’ve spent any time researching the Idaho Panhandle, you’ve probably seen the glossy photos of Indian Creek. It's the "main" part of Priest Lake State Park. It has the big store, the paved roads, and the crowds. But if you keep driving north—past the pavement, past the cellular service, and past the point where most tourists get nervous about their suspension—you hit the Priest Lake State Park Lionhead Unit.
It’s different here.
Honestly, it feels less like a manicured state park and more like a secret you aren't supposed to tell anyone. Located at the northernmost tip of the lake, Lionhead is where the Selkirk Mountains basically drop straight into the water. It’s rugged. It’s quiet. If you’re looking for a place to check your email, stay away. If you want to wake up because a squirrel is screaming at a moose near your tent, this is your spot.
The Reality of Getting to Lionhead
Most people underestimate the drive. You’re looking at about 23 miles north of Coolin, Idaho. The last stretch is a gravel road that can get washboarded depending on when the grader last went through. It isn't "off-roading," but your minivan will definitely need a wash afterward.
Why bother? Because the Priest Lake State Park Lionhead Unit sits right at the mouth of Lion Creek. This is crucial. While the rest of the lake can get choppy when the wind kicks up, the northern end feels more protected, more intimate. You’re tucked into a pocket of old-growth cedar and hemlock that smells better than any candle you’ve ever bought.
The campsites aren't these perfectly leveled pads with concrete borders. They’re tucked into the woods. Some are a bit tight. Some require a little maneuvering if you're pulling a trailer over 20 feet. But the tradeoff is privacy that you just won't find at Indian Creek or Dickensheet.
The Cliff Jumping Legend
Ask any local about Lionhead, and they won't talk about the bathrooms or the fire pits. They’ll talk about the rocks. Just a short boat ride or a dedicated paddle from the Lionhead beach is "The Rock."
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It’s a natural granite formation that tiers up to about 20 or 30 feet. Jumping into that crystal-clear, arguably freezing water is a rite of passage. The water at Priest Lake is famously pure—so clear you can see the rocks 15 feet down—which makes the jump feel way higher than it actually is.
Hiking the Upper Priest Lake Navigation Trail
One of the biggest draws of staying at the Priest Lake State Park Lionhead Unit is the access to the Thorofare. This is a 2.5-mile water channel that connects the main lake to Upper Priest Lake.
Now, if you don't have a boat, you aren't stuck.
The Navigation Trail starts near Lionhead. It’s a roughly 8-mile round trip if you go all the way to the upper lake. The elevation gain isn't brutal, but the brush can get thick. This is grizzly country. Seriously. I’m not saying that to be dramatic or sound like a wilderness scout. The Selkirk ecosystem is one of the few places in the lower 48 where grizzlies actually roam. Carry bear spray. Know how to use it. Don't leave your bacon grease sitting on the picnic table.
The payoff of this trail is reaching the shores of Upper Priest. Since no combustion engines are allowed to stay at speed in the Thorofare (it’s a no-wake zone), and the upper lake is almost entirely federally protected, it looks exactly like it did 200 years ago. It’s hauntingly beautiful.
What about the "Resort" Vibe?
There isn't one.
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If you want a burger and a huckleberry shake, you’re driving 30-40 minutes back down the lake to Elkins Resort or Hills Resort. Lionhead is a "bring what you need" kind of place. There is water and there are toilets (vault toilets, mostly), but there is no camp store. You forget the ice? You’re in trouble. You forget the marshmallows? Your kids will never forgive you.
Why it Beats Indian Creek (Usually)
Look, Indian Creek is great if you have a massive RV and you want a shower every morning. But the Priest Lake State Park Lionhead Unit offers something that’s becoming rare in Idaho: silence.
At night, the stars over Lionhead are aggressive. Because there’s zero light pollution from towns, the Milky Way looks like a smear of white paint across the sky. You’ll hear the loons. If you haven't heard a loon call at 3:00 AM across a flat-calm lake, you haven't really experienced the north woods. It’s ghostly and beautiful.
- The Beach: It's more of a pebbly/sandy mix. Great for launching kayaks.
- The Water: Shallower near the shore than other parts of the lake, so it warms up slightly—though "warm" is a relative term in Idaho. It's still brisk.
- The Crowds: Even when the campground is full, it feels empty because the trees are so dense.
The Fishing Situation
Priest Lake is deep. Some spots hit 300 feet. At the Lionhead end, you’re looking for Mackinaw (Lake Trout). They’re huge, but they’re deep. If you’re fishing from the shore at the park, you might snag some cutthroat or smallmouth bass, but the real prize is out in the blue. Locals usually troll with downriggers. If you see a boat moving at a crawl about a half-mile out, they’re hunting the big Macks.
Real Talk: The Mosquitoes and the Weather
I’d be lying if I said it was perfect. June at Lionhead can be a bloodbath. The mosquitoes thrive in the damp cedar groves. If you’re planning a trip, late July through September is the sweet spot. By August, the huckleberries are ripe on the hillsides, and the bugs have mostly chilled out.
The weather can also turn on a dime. You’re in a mountain microclimate. It can be 80 degrees and sunny at noon, and by 4:00 PM, a thunderstorm can roll over the Selkirks that makes you wonder if your tent is actually waterproof. It usually passes quickly, but you’ve gotta be prepared.
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Logistical Reality Check
If you're booking a spot, do it months in advance. The Idaho State Parks reservation system is a battlefield.
- Vehicle Pass: You’ll need an Idaho State Parks passport or pay the daily motor vehicle entry fee.
- Firewood: Buy it locally. Don't bring wood from out of state; they're very protective about the pine beetle and other invasive pests.
- Boat Launch: There is a ramp at Lionhead, but it’s a bit more primitive than the one at Indian Creek. Large boats might struggle if the lake level is low.
The Priest Lake State Park Lionhead Unit isn't for everyone. It’s for the person who wants to sit in a folding chair, stare at the water, and forget that their phone has a "settings" menu. It’s for the family that wants to teach their kids how to skip stones and identify animal tracks instead of playing iPad games in the backseat.
How to Handle Your Visit Like a Pro
To actually enjoy Lionhead without the stress, you need a specific mindset. Stop trying to schedule every hour. The "Lionhead vibe" is about reacting to the lake. If it's glassy in the morning, get the kayak out immediately. If the wind picks up in the afternoon, grab a book and find a hammock.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the Lake Levels: Before you haul a big boat up there, check the Idaho Power or USGS gauges for Priest Lake. If the water is low, the Lionhead ramp can be tricky for deep-draft boats.
- Pack a Gravity Filter: While the park has water, having a Katadyn or Sawyer filter allows you to hike the Navigation Trail without carrying five gallons of water on your back. You can just fill up at the lake or the creeks.
- Bear Proof Everything: Use the bear boxes if provided, or keep your cooler locked inside a hard-sided vehicle. Never, ever keep food in your tent. The black bears here are smart and the grizzlies are, well, grizzlies.
- Download Offline Maps: Download the entire Priest Lake area on Google Maps for offline use. You will lose signal about 10 miles before you reach the park, and trying to find your campsite in the dark without a map is a nightmare.
- Huckleberry Etiquette: If you’re there in August, go ahead and pick the berries, but stay off the private property lines. Also, leave some for the bears. They were there first.
Lionhead is the end of the road. Literally. Once you're there, there's nowhere else to go but into the woods or into the water. And honestly? That's exactly why it's worth the drive. Residents of Spokane and Coeur d'Alene have been trying to keep this place quiet for decades, but the secret is out. Just make sure when you leave, it looks like you were never there. That’s the only way a place like this stays special.