You’ve seen it on every street corner from London to New York. That sharp, aggressive contrast of shaved sides and a textured top. It’s the "Shelby look." But here is the thing: the actual historical show is set in a time when a peaky blinders haircut with beard combination was technically a fashion disaster—or at least, incredibly rare. In the 1920s, the razor-sharp undercut was about hygiene and hierarchy, while the face was usually scraped smooth.
Fast forward to today. We aren't worried about lice in the Birmingham slums anymore. We just want to look good.
The modern obsession with pairing this brutalist haircut with a rugged beard has transformed a period-accurate style into a contemporary staple. It’s a bit of a paradox. You’re mixing the industrial, slicked-back aesthetic of a post-war gangster with the lumberjack-adjacent masculinity of a full beard. It works. Honestly, it works better than the original show’s look for most guys because the beard adds a level of maturity that a bare face sometimes lacks.
The Anatomy of the Modern Disconnect
The show’s hair stylist, Laura Schiavo, famously noted that the actors initially hated the haircuts. They felt ridiculous. Cillian Murphy’s Tommy Shelby sports an "undercut" that is essentially a zero-grade buzz on the back and sides with significant length on top. When you add a beard to this, the geometry changes completely.
A beard adds weight to the jawline. If you have a rounder face, the high-and-tight nature of the Peaky style actually elongates your head. It’s basic physics, really. By removing the bulk from the sides of your skull and adding it to your chin, you’re creating an oval shape out of a circle.
The "Arthur Shelby" is perhaps the most iconic version—the disconnected undercut. There is no fade. There is no gradual transition. It’s just hair, and then suddenly, there is skin. When Arthur (played by Paul Anderson) occasionally sports stubble or a more rugged look in later seasons, the intensity of the character triples. It’s a high-maintenance look, though. You can't just wake up and look like a Shelby. You need a heavy-duty pomade, likely oil-based if you want that authentic 1920s sheen, though most modern guys opt for a matte clay to avoid looking like they’ve dipped their head in a deep fryer.
Choosing the Right Length for the Top
Don't just walk into a barbershop and ask for "the Peaky Blinders." Your barber will internally roll their eyes because there are four distinct versions.
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Tommy’s look is a "texturized crop." It’s shorter, pushed forward, and a bit messy. This is the one you want if your beard is short—think heavy stubble or a "designer" beard. It keeps the proportions balanced. If the hair is too short and the beard is too long, you end up looking like an upside-down triangle.
Arthur’s look is the "slick back." This requires at least five or six inches of length on top. If you’re pairing this with a full, thick beard, you are entering "Old School Cool" territory. It’s a very masculine, very heavy look. It’s also the hardest to pull off if you have fine hair. You need volume. Without it, the hair just lays flat against your scalp, and the beard takes over the whole conversation.
The Beard Problem: Why Most Guys Fail
The biggest mistake? Letting the sideburns grow.
In a true peaky blinders haircut with beard, the sideburns should technically not exist. They are the "no man's land" of the face. To get that sharp, disconnected Shelby look, the barber needs to take the clippers all the way up. If you have a beard, it should ideally start with a fade near the ear or a very sharp, clean line.
I’ve seen guys try to blend the two, and it just becomes a standard "skin fade with a beard." That’s fine. It looks good. But it’s not Peaky. To capture the spirit of the show, you need that harshness. The contrast is the point. The Shelbys were trying to look intimidating. They wanted people to know they didn't care about the "proper" way to wear a hat or groom a face.
Then there's the mustache. If you really want to lean into the era, the mustache should be slightly more prominent than the rest of the beard. A "heavy" stache paired with the undercut screams 1920s authority.
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Maintenance is a Nightmare
Let's be real for a second. This style is a commitment.
- The Sides: You’ll need a trim every two weeks. Once that zero-fade grows out into a two or a three, the "sharpness" disappears and you just look like you forgot to get a haircut.
- The Top: You’ll need a high-quality product. Reuzel (the pink or blue tins) is a favorite for that authentic grease look. If you want something more modern, look for a sea salt spray to give the top some "grit" before you blow-dry it.
- The Beard: Because the haircut is so structured, the beard cannot be "wild." You need beard oil and a boar-bristle brush. If the hair on your head is perfectly slicked and your beard looks like a bird's nest, the visual dissonance will be jarring.
Is It Still "In" for 2026?
Fashion cycles are weird. Usually, a show ends and the style dies within eighteen months. But Peaky Blinders hit a nerve. It tapped into a desire for a "heritage" look that feels more permanent than the fleeting trends of TikTok.
We are seeing a shift toward "Soft Peaky" lately. It’s a bit less severe. Instead of a shaved zero on the sides, guys are asking for a "taper fade." It’s more forgiving. It doesn't require you to see your barber twice a month just to maintain your dignity.
But the core remains. The peaky blinders haircut with beard is basically the suit-and-tie of the grooming world. It's formal but dangerous. It says you have a job, but you might also know how to swing a heavy object if pushed. That’s a powerful aesthetic.
Skin Care and the High Fade
One thing people forget: when you shave your head that high, your scalp is exposed to the elements. If you have dandruff or a dry scalp, this haircut will broadcast it to the world. You need to treat the skin on the sides of your head like the skin on your face.
Moisturize. Use sunscreen if you're out in the heat. There is nothing less "Shelby-esque" than a sunburned, peeling scalp.
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And for the beard? Exfoliate underneath. High-fade haircuts draw the eyes downward toward the jaw. If the skin under your beard is flaky or red, people will notice. Use a dedicated beard wash rather than regular hair shampoo, which is often too harsh for facial skin and strips away the natural oils you need.
How to Talk to Your Barber
Don't just show a picture of Cillian Murphy. Your head shape is not his head shape. Cillian has a very defined, angular jaw and high cheekbones. If you have a softer face, a direct copy of his haircut might make you look like a thumb.
Instead, ask for a "disconnected undercut with weight on top." Tell them specifically where you want the disconnect to happen.
- Low Disconnect: Keeps more hair on the sides, safer for office jobs.
- High Disconnect: The "Arthur." Very aggressive, very stylish.
- The Beard Transition: Decide if you want a "tapered" beard (where it starts thin and gets thicker) or a "blocked" beard (where it starts with a hard line). For the Peaky look, a slight taper is usually more natural and less "Lego-man."
Actionable Steps for Your Next Trim
If you are ready to pull the trigger on this look, do it in stages.
First, grow your hair out on top. You need length to play with. If you cut the sides short while the top is still in that awkward "in-between" phase, you’ll just look like you have a bad bowl cut. Wait until you have at least 3 or 4 inches of length.
Second, grow the beard for at least four weeks before the haircut. This allows the barber to see the "canvas." They can then shape the haircut to match the natural growth patterns of your beard.
Invest in a hairdryer. Seriously. You cannot get the volume or the "flick" of a Tommy Shelby crop without heat. A quick two-minute blast while brushing the hair forward or back will set the style for the entire day. Finish with a cold air shot to lock it in.
Finally, accept that you are now a "product guy." This isn't a "wash and go" situation. You'll need a pomade for the shine, a clay for the texture, and an oil for the beard. It sounds like a lot, but once you find the rhythm, it takes five minutes in the morning. That’s a small price to pay for looking like the most dangerous man in Birmingham.