Sneaker culture is fickle. One day everyone is losing their minds over a chunky dad shoe, and the next, we’re all back to slim-profile vulcs. But some things stick. When you look at the Nike SB Black History Month releases, you aren't just looking at suede and rubber. You're looking at a weird, beautiful intersection where high-performance skating meets a massive cultural narrative.
It started around 2013. Before that, the BHM honors were mostly reserved for the big-budget basketball lines—LeBron, Kobe, KD. Then SB entered the chat.
The McRad Dunk: Where It All Actually Began
Most people think the Nike SB Black History Month story is just about colorful patterns. They’re wrong. It really kicked off with the McRad Dunk High in 2013. This wasn't just a shoe; it was a history lesson. Chuck Treece, the man behind the 80s hardcore band McRad, is a legend. He was the first Black skater to grace the cover of Thrasher magazine back in 1984.
Think about that for a second. 1984.
The shoe featured these vibrant green, yellow, and red accents against a black base. It felt raw. It felt like punk rock. It wasn't some polished corporate tribute. It was a nod to the fact that Black skaters have been eating pavement and landing kickflips since the beginning, even when the industry didn't always look like them. If you find a pair of these today in good condition, you're looking at a genuine piece of archival history. They don't make them like this anymore.
2014 and the Shift Toward Intricate Design
By the time 2014 rolled around, Nike SB decided to go loud. Really loud. The 2014 Nike SB Black History Month Dunk Low is arguably the most recognizable entry in the entire series.
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It featured this incredibly dense, multi-colored BHM print on the rear panels and the Swoosh. The rest of the shoe was a clean, premium black suede. It was a balance. You had the chaos of the pattern hitting against the simplicity of the skate-ready front. This was also during the era when the Dunk was starting its slow climb back to total global dominance. At the time, you could actually find these sitting on shelves in some local skate shops. Can you imagine that now? Now, they’d be gone in three seconds, botted to oblivion.
The 2014 drop also included a Stefan Janoski signature model. The Janoski was the king of the world back then. Putting the BHM print on a Janoski meant Nike was serious about the lifestyle crossover. They knew skaters were wearing these, but so was the kid who had never stepped on a board in his life.
Why The Materials Matter More Than You Think
Let’s get nerdy for a second.
Skate shoes usually die a quick death. Grip tape is essentially sandpaper. If you’re actually skating your Nike SB Black History Month pairs, you’re shredding through layers of intentional design. This creates an interesting tension. The BHM line often used materials that were a bit more "premium" than your standard GR (General Release) Dunks.
- 2015 BHM Dunk Low: This one was wild. It featured a white base with a black "BHM" pattern printed all over it. It looked like a perforated leather dream, but it was actually quite stiff out of the box.
- The 2016 "Pan-African" Influence: We saw a shift toward more symbolic color palettes—deep greens, reds, and blacks.
- Woven Elements: Some years incorporated textile patterns that mimicked traditional African weaving techniques.
The problem? Textiles don't always flip well. If you’re doing heelflips, that beautiful woven fabric is going to fray way faster than standard cowhide. That’s the beauty of it, though. A trashed pair of BHM Dunks tells a better story than a pristine pair sitting in a plastic box in someone's basement.
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The Theotis Beasley Factor
You can't talk about Black history in Nike SB without mentioning Theotis Beasley. He’s the heart of the team. While the BHM shoes aren't always his "pro model" in the technical sense, he has been the face of the movement for years.
Watching Theotis skate is a masterclass in joy. He’s got that "I’m just happy to be here" energy, but his skill is terrifying. When Nike puts out a Nike SB Black History Month collection, it’s skaters like Theotis, Ishod Wair, and Eric Koston who give it legitimacy. Without the team, it's just a shoe. With the team, it’s a statement of belonging.
The Controversy of "The Drop"
Honestly, it hasn't always been smooth sailing. Some years, the SB line was notably absent from the BHM collection. Fans would wait, checking sneaker blogs every morning in February, only to find out that Nike was focusing strictly on the Jordan brand or the "Sportswear" (NSW) side of things.
This led to a lot of talk in the community. Was SB pulling away from the cultural conversation? Or was it just a matter of production cycles? The reality is usually more boring: logistics and marketing budgets. But for the core skate community, those gaps felt like missed opportunities to celebrate the massive impact Black culture has on the aesthetic of modern skating. Think about the baggy pants of the 90s, the music in the videos, the very style of "street" skating. It's all intertwined.
How to Spot the Real Deal vs. Fakes
Since the "Dunk-mania" of the 2020s, the market has been flooded with "reps" or high-quality fakes. If you’re hunting for an older Nike SB Black History Month pair, you have to be careful.
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- The Zoom Air Pod: Check the insole. SB Dunks have a specific Zoom Air unit in the heel. Fakes often get the thickness or the "squish" wrong.
- The "Fat" Tongue: The BHM Dunks are almost always "Pro" models, meaning they have the thick, stuffed tongue. If it looks skinny or limp, walk away.
- The Embroidery: On the 2014 and 2015 models, the stitching on the heel should be tight. If you see loose threads connecting the letters, it’s a red flag.
- The Smell: Real SBs have a distinct factory glue smell. If it smells like a chemical fire, it’s probably a fake.
The Investment Value
I hate talking about shoes as "investments." Shoes are for wearing. But we have to be realistic. The Nike SB Black History Month collection has held its value remarkably well.
The 2013 McRad pair has skyrocketed. The 2014 Lows are a staple in most serious collectors' closets. Why? Because they represent a specific era of Nike SB where the storytelling was just as important as the tech. They weren't just pumping out colorways; they were trying to say something.
How to Style Them Without Looking Like a Hypebeast
It's easy to overdo it. If you're wearing a shoe with a loud BHM pattern, don't wear a shirt with a loud pattern too. You'll look like a walking migraine.
Keep it simple. Dark denim or black chinos. A plain hoodie. Let the shoes do the heavy lifting. The goal is to look like you know the history, not like you're trying to show off your entire bank account on your feet.
What We Need Next from Nike SB
The BHM releases have been quiet lately. Too quiet. We need a return to the storytelling of the early 2010s. I want to see a collaboration with a Black-owned skate brand like Proper or a tribute to the "invisible" legends of the 70s and 80s who paved the way.
There's so much untapped history there. We don't just need another colorway; we need the narrative.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector:
- Research the "Orange Label" shops: Your local skate shop is more likely to have the inside track on SB releases than a big-box retailer. Build a relationship with them.
- Check the SKU: Every BHM release has a unique style code (e.g., 504750-001 for the 2013 McRad). Cross-reference this on a site like StockX or GOAT before buying from a random person on Instagram.
- Don't Fear the Wear: If you find a pair of Nike SB Black History Month Dunks, wear them. The yellowing of the clear soles or the scuffing of the suede adds character. These shoes are meant to move.
- Learn the Names: Don't just buy the shoe. Look up Chuck Treece. Watch some Theotis Beasley footage. Understand why the shoe exists in the first place.
The intersection of skateboarding and Black history isn't just a marketing window in February. It's the foundation of what we do every time we push off on a piece of wood with four wheels. The shoes are just a way to keep that conversation moving.