Walk down any street in Soho, Tokyo, or London and you’ll see it. That flash of rainbow. It’s unmistakable. People call it "multicolor," "rainbow," or "What The," but the Nike multicolor Air Max is basically the sneaker world’s way of saying "I couldn't pick just one color, so I took them all." Honestly, it’s a miracle they work at all. Usually, mixing neon green, electric blue, and infrared red on a single shoe results in a disaster that looks like a box of crayons melted in the sun. Yet, Nike somehow turned that chaos into a status symbol.
It's not just about looking loud.
The tech behind these things—specifically the evolution of Flyknit and the pressurized Air soles—is actually what allowed these wild colorways to exist in the first place. Back in the day, you were stuck with whatever colors could be dyed onto leather or suede panels. If you wanted a rainbow, you had to stitch ten different pieces of fabric together, which made the shoe heavy and, frankly, kind of ugly at the seams. Then Flyknit changed everything. By weaving individual strands of colored yarn together, Nike designers like Hiroshi Fujiwara and Tinker Hatfield realized they could create a digital "static" effect. That’s where the magic started.
The Flyknit Revolution and the Birth of the "Multi" Look
Most people think "multicolor" started with the Air Max, but it really found its soul in 2012 with the Flyknit Racer. However, the transition to the Air Max line is what made it a lifestyle staple. When you look at the Nike multicolor Air Max Flyknit models—specifically the Air Max 270 or the VaporMax—you're seeing a feat of engineering. The "Random" or "Multicolor" palettes are often created by using the leftover yarn from other production runs. It’s sort of a sustainable accident. Because the weaving process is somewhat randomized, no two pairs are exactly identical. You’ve got a 1-of-1 on your feet and you probably didn't even realize it.
Think about the Air Max 1 "Master." That shoe was a love letter to the history of the silhouette, stitching together bits and pieces of the most iconic colorways ever released. It was multicolor, but with a purpose. It wasn't just random bright strings; it was a museum on a midsole.
Sneakerheads get obsessed with the "transition" in these weaves. On a high-quality pair of Nike multicolor Air Max, the way the pink fades into a deep royal blue shouldn't feel jarring. It should feel organic. Like a sunset, but for your feet. If the weave looks "blocky" or cheap, you're likely looking at a knockoff or one of the lower-tier "budget" models that Nike occasionally drops to satisfy the masses. The real heat is always in the Flyknit.
Why Do We Even Like These?
Psychology plays a huge role here. There's this concept called "dopamine dressing." It’s the idea that wearing bright, varied colors can actually improve your mood and the mood of people looking at you. In a world of "minimalist" grey hoodies and beige "sad beige" aesthetics, the Nike multicolor Air Max is a middle finger to boredom. It’s loud. It’s proud. It says you’ve got enough confidence to pull off a shoe that matches literally nothing and everything at the same time.
It’s also incredibly practical for travelers. Seriously. If you’re packing light and can only bring one pair of sneakers, a multicolor pair is the ultimate hack. They hide dirt better than white shoes. They don't look as "work-outish" as black-on-black runners. Plus, because they contain almost every primary and secondary color, they technically match any shirt you throw on. It’s a weird logic, but it works.
Breaking Down the Most Iconic Multicolor Air Max Models
Let's get specific. You can't talk about this category without mentioning the Air Max 97. When the 97 went multicolor, it usually involved "piping" or layered leather waves. The "Easter" editions or the various "Pride" collections used the 97’s layers to create a literal rainbow stack. It’s a different vibe than the Flyknit. It’s more structured. More "90s rave."
Then you have the VaporMax.
The VaporMax "Multicolor" is probably the peak of this aesthetic. Because the sole is translucent—basically just big pods of air—it doesn't compete with the upper. The upper can be as loud as it wants to be because the "bottom" of the shoe is invisible. It’s a top-heavy design that works because of the contrast.
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- Air Max 1: The OG. Usually uses "What The" styling or safari prints.
- Air Max 90: Often features "Viotech" vibes with mismatched suede panels.
- Air Max 270: Uses the giant heel bubble to accent the multi-tone mesh.
- Air Max Plus (Tn): Uses gradients. The "Sunset" colorway is technically a multicolor masterpiece, fading from orange to yellow to purple.
The Resale Trap and What to Watch For
Here’s the thing about the Nike multicolor Air Max: they hold value surprisingly well, but only if the "pattern" is good. Since the yarn distribution is random on Flyknit models, some pairs just look... better. If a pair has a big "clump" of one color in a weird spot, like the toe box, it might actually sell for less than a pair with a perfectly even distribution of the rainbow. Collectors call this "pattern hunting."
You also need to be careful with the midsoles. Nike loves using white midsoles on these. Big mistake. Within three weeks of street wear, that crisp white turns into a dull, muddy grey, and suddenly your "vibrant" shoes look like they’ve seen a war zone. If you’re buying for longevity, look for the pairs with black or tinted Air units. They hide the inevitable scuffs and yellowing that happens to all plastic over time.
Also, let’s talk about the "What The" series. This isn't just "multicolor." It’s a specific Nike sub-brand where they mash up previous famous colorways. The Air Max "What The" models are usually the most expensive on the secondary market (StockX, GOAT, eBay) because they represent the "Greatest Hits" of that specific shoe. If you find a pair of these at a thrift store or a garage sale, buy them. Immediately. Don't even check the size. Just buy them.
Maintenance: Keeping the Rainbow Bright
Cleaning a Nike multicolor Air Max is a nightmare if you don't know what you're doing. You can’t just scrub Flyknit with a stiff brush. You’ll fray the fibers, and then your expensive sneakers will look like a fuzzy sweater.
- Use a soft-bristle brush: Think toothbrush or a dedicated premium sneaker brush.
- Cold water only: Hot water can actually mess with the dyes in the yarn and cause them to bleed into each other. You don't want your yellow strands turning into a murky green because they touched the blue strands.
- Stuff them with paper towels: When they're drying, they need to hold their shape. Flyknit is basically a sock; without something inside it, it'll shrink or warp as it dries.
- Avoid the dryer: Never, ever put Air Max in a dryer. The heat will melt the glue holding the Air unit to the upper. You’ll end up with a very colorful piece of trash.
Moving Toward a More Sustainable Rainbow
Nike’s "Move to Zero" initiative has actually made the multicolor look even more prevalent. By using "Space Waste" yarn—recycled polyester scraps—they are inherently creating more multicolored fabrics. The Nike Air VaporMax 2020 and 2021 models are prime examples. They look like confetti because they are confetti. They’re made from recycled scraps. It’s a rare moment where the "cool" aesthetic actually aligns with being slightly less terrible for the planet.
But is it just a trend? Probably not. Nike has been doing some version of the multicolor look since the early 2000s. It’s become a core part of their design DNA. It appeals to the kid in everyone who just wants the brightest thing on the shelf.
Actionable Next Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you're looking to grab your first pair of Nike multicolor Air Max, don't just buy the first thing you see on a discount rack. Follow these steps to ensure you're getting something that actually looks good and will last:
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- Check the "weave" density: Look at the toe box. If you can see your socks through it, it's a "summer" weight Flyknit. Great for breathability, terrible for durability.
- Prioritize the Air Max 90 or 95 for comfort: While the VaporMax looks cooler, the 90 and 95 provide better arch support for daily walking.
- Match with neutrals: Let the shoes be the star. Wear them with black joggers, raw denim, or grey sweats. If you try to wear a multicolor shirt with multicolor shoes, you’ll look like a backup dancer in a 1992 music video. (Unless that's your vibe, then go for it).
- Search for "Be True" editions: These are Nike's annual Pride releases. They almost always feature the best executions of the multicolor palette and the materials are usually a step above the standard general releases.
The beauty of the multicolor look is that it’s inherently inclusive. It’s every color at once. It’s messy, it’s vibrant, and it shouldn't work—but it does. Whether you’re a marathon runner or just someone who wants to look like they know about fashion while buying groceries, a pair of these is a solid investment. Just keep them out of the mud and away from the heater.