In 1984, the NBA was a different world. Short shorts were the standard, and the league’s dress code was basically a "white shoes only" policy that felt like it belonged in a black-and-white movie. Then came Michael Jordan. He didn’t just change the game of basketball; he destroyed the idea of what a shoe could be. Most people think the Nike Air Jordan original—the famous black and red "Banned" colorway—was the first shoe MJ wore on court. It wasn’t. It was actually the Nike Air Ship, a high-top that looked vaguely similar but lacked the cultural weight of what was about to drop. When the Air Jordan 1 finally hit the shelves and the hardwood, it wasn't just footwear. It was a rebellion.
Nike was struggling back then. Seriously. They were a running company losing ground to Reebok, and they desperately needed a win. They put all their chips on a rookie from North Carolina who originally wanted to sign with Adidas. Imagine that. History almost had Michael Jordan in three stripes. But Nike offered a deal that was unheard of at the time: $500,000 a year for five years and his own signature line. It was a massive gamble. The result was the Nike Air Jordan original, designed by Peter Moore, a man who realized that if you give a high-flying athlete a bold identity, the world will follow.
The design of the 1985 Air Jordan 1 was actually quite simple by today’s standards. No visible Air bubble. No carbon fiber plates. Just leather, a rubber cupsole, and a "Wings" logo that Moore famously sketched on a cocktail napkin during a flight. It looks thin compared to the chunky silhouettes of the 90s, but that’s the charm. It’s raw.
The "Banned" Myth vs. The Reality
You've probably heard the story about how the NBA fined Jordan $5,000 every time he wore his shoes because they broke the "uniformity of uniform" rule. Nike leaned into this hard. They ran commercials with black bars over the shoes, telling kids that while the NBA threw them out of the game, they couldn't stop you from wearing them.
It was marketing genius. Pure brilliance.
But here’s the thing—the "Banned" shoe wasn't technically the Jordan 1. It was that Air Ship I mentioned earlier. However, Nike knew the Jordan 1 was the future. By the time the Nike Air Jordan original retail version arrived in 1985, the hype was so nuclear that people were literally getting robbed for their sneakers. It sounds dark, and it was, but it speaks to the level of desire these shoes created. For the first time, a basketball shoe was a status symbol. It wasn't just for the gym. You wore them to show you were part of something bigger.
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Why 1985 Leather Hits Different
Sneakerheads today talk about "remastered" versions and "OG" specs, but honestly, nothing compares to the 1985 build. If you ever hold an actual Nike Air Jordan original from '85, you'll notice the shape is different. The ankle collar is higher. The swoosh is massive and cuts deeper into the heel. The leather was thick, stiff, and meant to take a beating on the blacktop.
The original rollout included several colorways that are now considered the "Holy Grails" of the industry:
- The "Chicago"—the iconic Red, White, and Black.
- The "Bred" or "Black Toe"—the ones that caused the controversy.
- The "Royal"—a deep blue that Michael never actually wore in an NBA game.
- The "Shadow"—a grey and black combo for a more muted look.
- The "Metallic" series—which used a shiny, almost plastic-like finish on the accents.
Prices for an authentic 1985 pair in decent condition now reach the tens of thousands. In 2020, a pair of game-worn, autographed Jordan 1s sold for over half a million dollars at Sotheby’s. It’s not just a shoe anymore; it's fine art. It’s an asset class.
The Tech That Wasn't Really There
Look, if you try to play a full 48-minute game in a Nike Air Jordan original today, your knees will hate you. There is a small Air unit in the heel, but it’s encased in a heavy rubber midsole. Compared to the "Zoom Air" or "React" foam we have now, it feels like walking on a brick. But back then? It was revolutionary. Most shoes were just canvas or thin leather with zero support.
Peter Moore and Rob Strasser, the minds behind the launch, focused on the "feel" of the court. Jordan liked to feel the floor. He didn't want to be high up on a platform. That's why the 1s have such a low profile. It allowed for those lightning-fast cuts and the explosive first step that left defenders wondering where their ankles went.
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Cultural Impact Beyond the Court
By the late 80s, something weird happened. The Nike Air Jordan original started showing up in places Nike never intended. Skateboarders realized the high-top leather protected their ankles and the flat sole gave them incredible board feel. Legends like Lance Mountain began wearing them, often mismatched, because they were durable and ended up in clearance bins for $20 when the newer Jordan models came out.
Think about that. The most expensive shoe in the world now was once a bargain bin find for skaters.
This cross-pollination is why the shoe never died. While other basketball shoes from 1985 look dated and bulky, the Jordan 1 looks like it could have been designed yesterday. It fits with jeans. It fits with shorts. Some people even wear them with suits, though that’s a risky move depending on who you ask. It’s the rare piece of clothing that has remained "cool" for four consecutive decades. That just doesn't happen. Trends are supposed to be cyclical, but the Jordan 1 is a straight line.
Spotting the Real Deal
If you are hunting for a Nike Air Jordan original, you have to be a detective. The market is flooded with "retros"—re-releases that happen every few years. While a 2015 "Chicago" or a 2022 "Lost and Found" looks great, they aren't the originals.
Authentic 1985 pairs have a specific "850X11" coding on the inside of the collar. The shape of the heel has a distinct "hourglass" curve when viewed from behind. Most importantly, the foam inside the collar of an original pair has likely turned to dust by now. If you find a "1985" pair and the padding feels soft and plush, you’re looking at a fake or a very high-end restoration.
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Collectors also look for the "Neutral Grey" or the "Kentucky" blue. These non-Bulls colors were part of the initial wave and represent the bridge between professional sports and college fanbases.
The Legend of the Wings Logo
There's a story that Peter Moore saw a child wearing pilot wings on a flight and decided that was the vibe for Michael. It worked. The Wings logo is synonymous with flight. It perfectly captured Jordan’s ability to hang in the air for what felt like several business days. When Nike eventually moved to the "Jumpman" logo for the Jordan 3, the 1 remained the only model to prominently feature those wings as its primary identity. It marks the era of "Air" before the brand became a standalone kingdom.
Actionable Insights for Collectors and Fans
If you're looking to get into the world of the Nike Air Jordan original, don't just dive into eBay with your credit card out. You'll get burned.
- Educate your eyes. Spend hours looking at high-resolution photos of verified 1985 pairs on sites like House of Heat or specialized auction houses. Note the stitching density and the exact placement of the swoosh.
- Understand the "Crumble." Any shoe from 1985 is a ticking time bomb. The soles are rubber, which stays relatively stable, but the internal glue and foam are degrading. If you buy an original to wear, you will likely need a "sole swap," which involves taking the sole off a modern donor shoe and attaching it to the vintage upper.
- Check the "Wings" angle. On the original 85s, the Wings logo is pointed directly at the top lace hole. On many fakes and even some later retros, the alignment is slightly off.
- Value the story over the condition. A beat-up, scuffed pair of 85s often has more "soul" than a pristine pair. These shoes were meant to be played in. The creases in the toe box tell the story of a game played in a different era.
- Start with "Retros" if you're on a budget. You can get the 1985 "vibe" without the $20,000 price tag. Look for the "Jordan 1 Retro High 85" series—Nike’s recent attempts to recreate the exact dimensions of the original.
The Nike Air Jordan original isn't just a sneaker. It's a timestamp of a moment when sports, marketing, and design collided to create a monster. It turned Nike into a global powerhouse and Michael Jordan into a billionaire. More than that, it gave people a way to "Be Like Mike," even if they couldn't jump over a phone book. Whether it's the history, the "Banned" myth, or just the way that red and black leather catches the light, the Jordan 1 remains the undisputed king of the closet. It’s the shoe that started it all, and honestly, we’ll probably still be talking about it forty years from now.