It happened slowly, then all at once. Suddenly, every dinner party in Brooklyn and every "aesthetic" Pinterest board featured the same thing: a golden, slightly craggy, impossibly moist disk of cake. No frosting. No sprinkles. Just a dusting of powdered sugar and a side of loosely whipped cream. We are talking, of course, about the New York Times olive oil cake, a recipe that has transcended simple digital publication to become a legitimate cultural touchstone for home bakers.
But why? Honestly, it’s just oil and flour. Or is it?
Most people think a cake needs butter to be decadent. They’re wrong. Butter brings flavor, sure, but it also brings a certain structural stiffness once it cools. Olive oil is different. It stays liquid at room temperature, meaning the crumb stays tender for days—if it even lasts that long. The New York Times has published a few variations of this, but the Maialino version (inspired by the famous Roman-style trattoria in Gramercy Park) is the one that really broke the internet before "breaking the internet" was even a tired phrase.
The Chemistry of the New York Times Olive Oil Cake
If you’ve ever wondered why your standard vanilla sponge tastes like cardboard after 24 hours while this cake stays luscious, it’s all about the lipids.
Standard cakes rely on creaming butter and sugar. This process traps air, creating a fluffy texture, but butter is about 15% water. When that water evaporates in the oven, it can leave the cake prone to drying out. Olive oil is 100% fat. It coats the flour proteins more efficiently, which inhibits gluten development. Less gluten means a more tender bite. You’ve probably noticed that the New York Times olive oil cake doesn’t have that bouncy, bread-like chew. It’s more of a melt-in-your-mouth situation.
There’s also the emulsification. Most of these recipes, particularly those popularized by NYT Cooking’s Melissa Clark or those adapted from Nick Anderer, use a significant amount of dairy—often whole milk or even yogurt. When you whisk olive oil into these liquids along with eggs, you’re creating a stable emulsion.
It’s basically science you can eat.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Oil
Stop using your most expensive, peppery, "harvested-by-monks" finishing oil for this. Seriously. Just don’t do it.
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While it’s tempting to grab the $40 bottle of extra virgin olive oil you bought on vacation, the heat of a 350-degree oven is going to destroy those delicate, volatile compounds that make high-end oil special. You’ll end up with a cake that tastes vaguely medicinal or overly grassy.
Instead, look for a high-quality, "everyday" extra virgin olive oil. Something buttery. Brands like California Olive Ranch are favorites among the NYT Cooking community for a reason. They provide enough fruitiness to be noticed without punching you in the face with bitterness. You want the oil to support the citrus and sugar, not stage a coup.
The Citrus Secret
Many versions of the New York Times olive oil cake call for orange juice and zest. Some people skip the zest because grating a fruit feels like a chore. Don’t be that person. The oils in the zest are where the actual flavor lives; the juice just provides acidity. If you really want to level up, rub the zest into the sugar with your fingers before you add the wet ingredients. It releases the aromatics and perfumes the entire cake.
Why the Maialino Version Rules Them All
We have to talk about the Maialino recipe specifically because it’s the gold standard. Originally shared by the Times via the restaurant Maialino, it’s famous for its massive amount of oil. Most cakes use half a cup or maybe 3/4 of a cup. This one? It uses a full cup and a third.
It feels wrong when you're pouring it in. You’ll think, "This is a soup, not a batter."
Trust the process.
The inclusion of Grand Marnier or a similar orange liqueur is the "chef’s kiss" moment. It adds a sophisticated, boozy backbone that cuts through the richness of the fat. If you don't have Grand Marnier, some people swap in Cointreau or even a splash of bourbon, though the latter changes the vibe entirely.
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Variations That Actually Work (and Some That Don't)
People love to tinker. It’s human nature. But when it comes to the New York Times olive oil cake, some substitutions are better than others.
- The Flour Switch: You can swap about 25% of the all-purpose flour for almond flour. This increases the moisture even further and gives it a nutty "frangipane" quality.
- The Dairy Swap: Using buttermilk instead of regular milk adds a tang that mimics a sourdough-like complexity.
- The Sugar Crust: This is the most important tip I can give you. Before putting the tin in the oven, sprinkle a thick layer of granulated sugar over the top. It creates a crackly, brulee-style crust that contrasts perfectly with the soft interior.
Don’t try to make this fat-free. Don’t use applesauce. If you’re looking for a health food, you’re in the wrong place. This is a celebration of fat and sugar.
Gluten-Free Struggles
Can you make it gluten-free? Sort of. A 1:1 replacement flour (like King Arthur or Cup4Cup) works okay, but because the batter is so liquid-heavy, gluten-free versions can sometimes turn out gummy in the center. If you go this route, bake it in a slightly wider pan to increase the surface area and help it set.
The "Morning After" Factor
Most cakes are "dessert only." This cake is a chameleon.
Because it’s not cloyingly sweet, it functions perfectly as a breakfast cake. In Italy, having a slice of simple cake with a caffe latte is standard practice. The New York Times olive oil cake fits this mold perfectly. In fact, it actually tastes better on day two. The flavors have time to meld, the moisture redistributes, and the citrus becomes more pronounced.
A Note on Equipment
You don't need a stand mixer for this. That’s part of the charm. A large bowl, a whisk, and a 9-inch cake pan are all that stand between you and greatness.
However, do not use a springform pan unless you wrap the bottom in foil. This batter is thin. If your springform has even a tiny gap, you will have a smoke-filled kitchen and a burnt oil mess on the floor of your oven. Use a solid-bottom cake pan or a well-sealed springform. Line the bottom with parchment paper. No exceptions.
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Navigating the NYT Cooking Paywall
It’s the recurring joke of the internet: "I just want the recipe, not a subscription."
While the New York Times protects its intellectual property, the olive oil cake recipe is so ubiquitous that variations are everywhere. However, there is value in the comments section of the official NYT site. It’s a goldmine of troubleshooting. One user might mention that their cake took 10 minutes longer because of their high altitude; another might suggest adding rosemary. If you’re a serious baker, the community notes are almost as valuable as the recipe itself.
Practical Steps for Your Best Bake
- Check your leavening agents. Olive oil is heavy. If your baking powder or soda is more than six months old, the cake will sink in the middle. Test them in a bit of vinegar or hot water first.
- Room temperature ingredients are mandatory. If you pour cold milk into your oil and egg mixture, it won't emulsify properly. The batter will look broken. It’ll still taste fine, but the texture will be off.
- The "Doneness" Test. Don't just rely on a toothpick. The cake should feel springy to the touch, and the edges should be visibly pulling away from the sides of the pan.
- Cooling is part of the cooking. Leave it in the pan for at least 20 minutes. If you try to flip it while it's piping hot, it might collapse under its own weight.
Making It Your Own
Once you’ve mastered the base New York Times olive oil cake, start experimenting with the aromatics.
Fresh thyme or rosemary, finely minced, adds a savory depth that is incredible when served with fruit. In the summer, fold in a handful of fresh blackberries. In the winter, serve it with roasted pears. It’s a blank canvas that doesn't feel like one.
The genius of this cake isn't that it's fancy. It’s that it’s reliable. In a world of "over-the-top" viral desserts involving melted candy bars and gold leaf, the olive oil cake remains a testament to the power of a few good ingredients treated with respect.
Next Steps for the Home Baker
To get the most out of your baking session, start by selecting a "medium" intensity olive oil—something that smells like fresh grass but doesn't sting the back of your throat. Prepare your 9-inch pan by greasing it with butter and lining the bottom with parchment paper. Ensure your eggs and dairy are at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before mixing. Once the cake is out of the oven and cooled, resist the urge to eat it immediately; wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and let it sit overnight. The texture tomorrow will be vastly superior to the texture today. If you're serving guests, whip some heavy cream with a tiny bit of mascarpone and honey to dollop on the side. This adds a creamy, lactic tang that bridges the gap between the fruity oil and the sweet sugar crust.