You know the feeling when a mood board suddenly becomes a physical object you can hold in your hands? That’s basically the entire business model for Justin Saunders and his Montreal-based design studio. When the New Balance JJJJound 993 finally hit the pavement, it wasn't just another sneaker drop in an oversaturated market. It felt more like a quiet correction to the loud, neon-soaked trends that had been suffocating footwear for years.
People love to hate on JJJJound. They call it "expensive beige." They say it’s just a logo swap. But if you've actually laced up a pair of the 993s, specifically in that "Urban Grey" or the more recent earthy iterations, you realize there’s something else going on. It’s about the texture. It’s about how the light hits the pigskin suede. Honestly, it's about the fact that New Balance’s Made in USA line is currently outperforming almost every luxury fashion house in terms of raw build quality.
The 993 Silhouette: Why This Model Specifically?
For the longest time, the 993 was the forgotten middle child of the 99x series. Everyone wanted the sleekness of the 990v3 or the chunkiness of the 992. The 993 just sat there, looking a bit "dad-ish," even by New Balance standards. It has a slightly wider toe box and a more aggressive ABZORB DTS cushioning system than its predecessors.
Then JJJJound touched it.
By stripping away the usual reflective flares and opting for a muted, tonal palette, Saunders highlighted the 993's technical complexity. You've got these intricate layers of mesh and suede that usually get lost when the colors are too busy. In the New Balance JJJJound 993, those layers are forced to speak for themselves. The "Urban Grey" pair, which looks almost like a faded olive depending on your office lighting, uses a blacked-out midsole. That was a choice. It grounds the shoe. It makes it look less like a performance runner and more like a piece of industrial design.
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That Specific Shade of Grey-Green
Let’s talk about the colorway because that is 90% of why people are willing to pay $500+ on the secondary market for these. It’s not just grey. It’s not just green. It’s this weird, liminal shade that reminds you of a concrete park in Berlin or a foggy morning in Westmount.
Materials matter here. A lot. New Balance uses a high-nap pigskin suede for their Made in USA products. When you rub your thumb across the lateral panel of a JJJJound 993, the color shifts. It "tracks," as sneakerheads say. Most brands use a synthetic or heavily sanded leather that feels like cardboard. This feels alive. It’s soft, but it holds its shape. When you pair that with the cream-colored laces—a JJJJound signature that every other brand has since copied—it creates a vintage aesthetic that doesn't feel forced. It feels earned.
The 993 is inherently stable. It was designed for overpronators originally, meaning it has a stiff internal structure. Most "lifestyle" shoes are flimsy. These aren't. You can walk ten miles in NYC in these and your arches won't scream at you the next morning.
The Resale Problem and the "Hype" Paradox
Is a pair of mesh and suede sneakers worth $600?
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Probably not. No shoe is, strictly speaking, from a utility perspective. But the New Balance JJJJound 993 exists in that weird space where supply and demand meet aesthetic purity. Because JJJJound drops are notoriously difficult to hit—usually involving a Shopify password page and a lot of heartbreak—the scarcity drives the price.
But there’s a nuance here that people miss. Unlike a pair of Off-White Nikes with zip-ties and orange tabs, the JJJJound 993 is "stealth wealth." You can wear them to a wedding with a charcoal suit. You can wear them to buy groceries. They don't scream for attention, which is exactly why they get so much of it. It’s a paradox. By trying to be the most "boring" shoe in the room, it becomes the most interesting.
Teddy Santis, the founder of Aimé Leon Dore and current Creative Director for New Balance Made in USA, has brought a lot of eyes to the brand. But while Santis loves primary colors and 90s nostalgia, Saunders (JJJJound) is obsessed with the 2000s "normcore" aesthetic. The 993 is the pinnacle of that era.
How to Tell if Yours are Real (The Details)
With the rise of high-quality replicas, you have to be careful. Real JJJJound 993s have a very specific "JJJJound" branding on the heel and the insole. The font is tiny. It’s Helvetica, and it’s perfectly kerned. If the letters look a bit thick or "bloody," they're fake.
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Check the midsole paint. On the "Urban Grey" pair, the black paint on the midsole should be matte, not glossy. It should feel slightly textured. Also, look at the "N" logo on the side. It’s reflective, but it has a very specific border width. On many fakes, the border is too wide, making the "N" look chunky.
- Lace Swap: The shoes come with two sets of laces. The cream ones are the "correct" choice for the aesthetic, but the flat black ones make the shoe look incredibly sleek and almost tactical.
- Sizing: The 993 runs big. Honestly, go down half a size from your Nike or Adidas size. If you have narrow feet, you might even be able to go a full size down, though that's risky.
- Cleaning: Never, ever use a wet brush on this suede. You will ruin the nap. Use a dry suede eraser and a soft-bristle horsehair brush. If you get mud on them, let it dry completely before touching it.
The Long-Term Value of "Minimalism"
Trends are cyclical, sure. We’re seeing a move toward more technical "gorpcore" hiking shoes right now—think Salomon or Hoka. But the New Balance JJJJound 993 isn't really a trend shoe. It’s a staple. It’s the sneaker equivalent of a well-made white t-shirt or a pair of raw denim jeans. It will look just as good in 2030 as it does right now.
That’s the secret. Most collaborators try to reinvent the wheel. JJJJound just oils the gears. By keeping the 993 simple, they ensured its longevity. It’s a masterclass in restraint. In a world where everyone is shouting for your attention, the guy wearing the muted grey New Balances is usually the one who actually knows what he’s doing.
If you’re looking to pick up a pair, don't just look at StockX. Check forums. Check Grailed. Look for used pairs that have a bit of character. These shoes actually look better when they're a little beat up. The suede gets a patina, the midsole gets some "character lines," and they stop looking like a trophy and start looking like footwear.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector:
- Verify the Sizing: Visit a local New Balance outlet and try on any standard 993. The fit is identical across all colorways. Ensure you have about a thumb's width of space at the toe.
- Check the Production Date: Look at the size tag inside the tongue. Authentic JJJJound pairs will have specific production windows that align with the 2021 and 2024 release cycles.
- Invest in Suede Protection: Before your first wear, spray them with a high-quality fluorocarbon-free water repellent. It won't change the color, but it will save you from accidental coffee spills.
- Monitor Secondary Markets: Prices for the 993 tend to dip slightly in the mid-winter when people are buying boots. That’s your window to buy.