Sneaker trends are exhausting. One week it's chunky "dad shoes" that look like orthotics, and the next, everyone is squeezing their feet into slim-profile terrace trainers. But there is a specific kind of person who ignores all of that. They just wear the 998 made in the usa. It’s a shoe that doesn't try too hard. Honestly, it doesn't have to.
You’ve probably seen them on the feet of tech moguls in Silicon Valley or architects in Berlin. They aren't flashy. There are no giant logos or neon lights. Instead, you get pigskin suede and a midsole that feels like it could survive a nuclear winter. It's a vibe. It's "if you know, you know" footwear.
The 998 isn't just a shoe; it's a piece of manufacturing history that New Balance refuses to let die. While almost every other major athletic brand moved their entire production line overseas decades ago to chase higher margins, New Balance kept a handful of factories running in Maine and Massachusetts. That decision changed everything for the brand's legacy.
The Weird History of the 998 Made in the USA
When the 998 first hit the pavement in 1993, it was a technical marvel. It was the first time New Balance used ABZORB cushioning. Before that, shoes were basically just foam wedges. ABZORB was different. It was a proprietary blend of isoprene rubber that absorbed impact better than anything else on the market at the time.
People often confuse the 998 with its siblings, the 997 or the 990. I get it. They all look sort of similar if you’re just glancing. But the 998 has that distinct, slightly boxy toe box and a midfoot section that feels incredibly stable. It’s a bit more aggressive than the 996 but less "clunky" than the 990v3.
The "Made in USA" tag isn't just marketing fluff, either. To carry that label, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) requires that "all or virtually all" of the product is made in America. For New Balance, this means a domestic value of 70% or greater. This matters because the craftsmanship is noticeably different. If you hold a 998 made in the usa next to a budget-tier sneaker made in a massive overseas factory, the suede quality on the 998 will make the other shoe look like it's made of cardboard.
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Why Quality Actually Costs More
Let's talk about the price. It’s high. You’re usually looking at $200 or more.
Why?
Because paying American labor wages isn't cheap. The artisans in places like Skowhegan, Maine, have been doing this for decades. They know how to tension the leather. They know how to stitch the heel counter so it doesn't blow out after three months of heavy use. You’re paying for the fact that these shoes are built to be rebuilt. You can actually send certain models back to be refurbished, though the 998 is so sturdy you might not need to for five years.
The suede is usually sourced from the Wolverine Leathers tannery. It’s thick. It’s buttery. It has a nap that changes color when you run your finger across it. Most modern sneakers use "action leather," which is basically thin leather scraps coated in plastic. The 998 uses the real stuff. That’s why it breathes better. That’s why it ages beautifully instead of just falling apart.
The Teddy Santis Effect
We can't talk about the 998 without mentioning Teddy Santis, the founder of Aimé Leon Dore. When he took over as the Creative Director for the Made in USA line, the 998 got a massive second life. He brought back archival colorways—lots of creams, olives, and navy blues—that reminded people why the silhouette was so good in the first place.
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Santis understood something that previous designers missed: the 998 is the perfect canvas for tonal colors. Because the shoe has so many different panels (mesh, suede, plastic accents, reflective 3M), you can layer five shades of grey on it and it looks like a masterpiece.
Spotting the Real Deal vs. Fakes
Since these are high-value items, the counterfeit market is real. But honestly? Faking a 998 made in the usa is hard because the materials are too expensive to replicate cheaply.
- The Suede Test: If the suede feels like sandpaper or plastic, it’s a fake. The real deal is soft.
- The Tongue: Look at the embroidery. On a real 998, the "Made in USA" stitching is crisp. No loose threads. No weird spacing between letters.
- The Smell: This sounds weird, but real leather and high-quality adhesives have a specific scent. Fakes usually smell like harsh chemicals or gasoline.
- The Midsole: ABZORB foam should have a bit of "give" when you press it with your thumb but snap back instantly.
The 998 also fits a little big. Most enthusiasts suggest going down half a size from your standard Nike or Adidas size. If you buy your true size, you might find your heel slipping, which ruins the whole point of a premium stability shoe.
Is It Actually Good for Running?
Kinda. But not really.
In 1993? Yes, it was an elite performance shoe. In 2026? It’s a lifestyle shoe. If you try to run a marathon in these, you’re going to feel the weight. Modern running shoes are made of carbon fiber plates and ultra-lightweight foams that feel like marshmallows. The 998 is heavy. It's firm. It’s designed for walking city streets for ten hours, not for shaving seconds off your 5K PR.
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That firmness is actually a benefit for people with overpronation or flat feet. It provides a level of support that "squishy" shoes just can't match. It keeps your foot aligned. It feels substantial.
The Sustainability Argument
We buy too much junk. Most sneakers are designed to be "fast fashion"—worn for a season and then tossed when the sole de-glues. The 998 is the opposite. Because the materials are high-grade, the shoe lasts.
Choosing a 998 made in the usa is a vote for a slower cycle of consumption. It supports domestic manufacturing jobs and reduces the carbon footprint associated with shipping every single component across the ocean multiple times. Plus, a shoe that lasts three years is cheaper in the long run than three pairs of $70 shoes that fall apart in six months.
How to Style Them Without Looking Like a Grandpa
There is a fine line between "cool retro" and "lost at the mall."
- Avoid the baggy cargos: Unless you're specifically going for a 90s skater look, keep the pants tapered or straight-leg. You want to show off the silhouette of the shoe.
- Contrast the textures: Since the 998 is heavy on suede, it looks great with denim or heavyweight cotton twill.
- No show socks? No: Wear a nice crew sock. A high-quality white or grey marl sock from a brand like Rototo or even just classic Gold Toe looks right with these.
- Clean the suede: Get a brass bristle brush. Suede is durable, but it hates mud. Brush them after you wear them in the rain, and they’ll stay looking new for years.
The grey colorway (specifically the M998) is the gold standard. It’s the "OG." If you don't know which one to get, get the grey. It goes with literally everything you own. Black jeans? Check. Khakis? Check. Shorts? Check.
Actionable Steps for Your First Pair
If you're ready to pull the trigger on a pair of 998s, don't just buy the first pair you see on a resale site.
- Check the SKU: Look for "M998" followed by letters. "M" stands for Men’s (though they are basically unisex), and the letters denote the colorway.
- Verify the Factory: Ensure the listing or the box explicitly states "Made in the USA." New Balance does make lower-tier versions of some models (like the 997H) that are made elsewhere and use cheaper materials. The 998 is almost exclusively a "Made" or "Heritage" model, but it pays to be careful.
- Use a Suede Protector: Before you wear them outside, spray them with a high-quality water repellant like Jason Markk or Saphir Super Invulner. It won't change the color, but it will save you from a permanent coffee stain.
- Size Down: Seriously. Go half a size down from your usual size. Your feet will thank you.
- Check Outlet Stores: Sometimes, less popular colorways of the Made in USA line end up at New Balance Factory Stores for 30-40% off. It’s the best-kept secret in the sneaker world.
The 998 made in the usa isn't a trend. It's a standard. It represents a time when things were built to last and "American Made" meant the highest quality in the world. Whether you're a hardcore collector or just someone who wants one pair of shoes that won't fail them, the 998 is the answer. It’s comfortable, it’s ethical, and it looks better the more you wear it. Stop buying disposable shoes and invest in something that actually has a soul.